Topic: Removings carbs from stay plate concerns...

[Dave-and-his-550]

Yes, I'm still working on my carbs! I decided to change the rubber fuel housing because one was very brittle and torn. And now with the new ones, its near impossible to get them on with the carbs still on the mounting/stay plate thing. So I'm trying to get a carb off...And when I turn the HEX nut at the top that is attached to the adjuster holder, it doesn't budge AND it some what bends the adjuster holder outta place (See photo) So, if I DO remove the hex nut with force, is there anything I might damage with the adjuster holder or anything inside of it?

What is the proper procedure for removing the carbs individually?



Maybe I'm being to over cautious, but I certainly do not want to break anything here...

[fmctm1sw]

I can't remember my exact steps but I think I had may carbs "way more apart" before I was cranking on that nut...  I'm not even sure I remember removing it...  I'm sure someone will drop in with the answer though...

[kslrr]

Under that "nut" is a spring and a pin that hold the linkage together via ball joints on the throtle shaft arms.  You should be able to simply pull/wiggle the ball joint out of this piece.

I seperated the carbs by removing th shaft from inside the carb body.  Here are some pics that might help.

[scondon]

 I'm not at all familiar with the 550 carbs. With the 750 carbs you can remove the stay plate from the bank of carbs making the connected carbs "flexible" enough to add/remove rubber lines with no need to separate a carb from the linkage. Carbs in your pics do look mighty different from the 750 sets so I don't know if this would work or not.

EDIT: I have a feeling I am about to be schooled       (TT?)

[TwoTired]

I don't know what you are talking about "rubber fuel housing". 

Do you mean the carb to intake manifold couplers?  Or, the rubber interconnect hoses?  Or, the fuel inlet "tees'?

Anyhow, the part you show with the wrench unscrews CCW, as you'd expect.  But, I'm not sure it will release before you destroy the linkage.  I put an adjustable crescent wrench on the part under it, to remove those caps without putting stress on the ball joints of the linkage.  You may have to raise the slides some to get it into position for the wrench to go on.

[Dave-and-his-550]

Under that "nut" is a spring and a pin that hold the linkage together via ball joints on the throtle shaft arms.  You should be able to simply pull/wiggle the ball joint out of this piece.

I seperated the carbs by removing th shaft from inside the carb body.  Here are some pics that might help.

So removing this nut is necessary to take off the carb? I still don't see how because the hex nut is attached to the adjuster holders, and they don't come off with the carb right? Or could they? I think this because in your photo:
the adjuster holders are still both there, with one carb off. So, is the hex nut needing to be off, just to Loosen that metal arm that inserts into the carb?

I don't know what you are talking about "rubber fuel housing". 

It is the two hoses that run into the carbs from the fuel tank! Ill try a crecent wrench on it now with alittle wd40

[Dave-and-his-550]

I see what I'm thinking wrong. I think I can take a carb off individually without having to remove the backing plate. BUT I see in that photo of yours, the backing plate has to come off from the carbs first in order to take them apart individually right? It didn't mention any of that in these stupid shop manuals....

[TwoTired]

You do NOT have to separate carbs to put on the fuel hoses.
Long long nose pliers or large hemostats do that nicely.

[Dave-and-his-550]

You do NOT have to separate carbs to put on the fuel hoses.
Long long nose pliers or large hemostats do that nicely.

Oh believe me, its to late for that! Also, the carbs are still pretty dirty in places i couldn't reach before. Who says it aint fun to pull carbs apart twice 

So I lifted the backing plate from the carbs, now I see how the carbs are connected still to the adjustment holders. So, that bolt inside the top of the carb, in that rod needs to come out, then the carb should slide off I'm assuming.

[TwoTired]

No, you are doing it the very hard way.  Let me go look at a spare set to refresh my memory....

[Dave-and-his-550]

No, you are doing it the very hard way.  Let me go look at a spare set to refresh my memory....

You are right. I used the crecent wrence on the hex nut at the top. And removed the carb from the ball joint, disconnected the rubber tubes from carb 1 and 2, and it slid right off! I think I got it figured out. Now to keep everything in order...

Tada!

[TwoTired]

It's actually easier to take the two outer carbs off together as a pair and then separate them.  They go back on that way, too.  Be sure to note how the choke linkage was oriented.  And if you don't get the carbs back on the stay plate exactly like they were before released, then you have to adjust the choke mechanism so they all open and close in unision.

You WILL need to sync the carbs for sure now, so if you haven't removed and cleaned the emulsion tubes, now's the time.

You sure like to make more work for yourself, huh?

[Dave-and-his-550]

I got them all separated now. Hell seemed pretty easy to me once a few realizations chimed in, and hey, the more I spend time working on them, the more I learn I think.

Now I can get them cleaned the way I wanted. I'm thinking of sanding off the rust thats on the various parts. Is that a good idea? Or I might use yamaha carb cleaner and soak them, then use a brass brush on it. Maybe soak it in evapo-rust instead...

[Dave-and-his-550]

You WILL need to sync the carbs for sure now, so if you haven't removed and cleaned the emulsion tubes, now's the time.

I remember you posted this about the emulsion tubes:

Edit: Whats the emulsion tube??

The main jet butts up against it when inserted into the carb body.  See that brass surrounding the needle point?  That's the end of the emulsion tube.
The other end can be seen in the carb bore where the slide needle inserts.  That end is the jet needle metering orifice.  So, take care not to distort that while pushing it out from that end.  On rare occasions, you can push the Emulsion tubes out without removing the slides for access.

Cheers,

I'll look into it tomorrow. I assume the emulsion tube can just be pushed out from the top by moving the throttle slide out of the way?

[Jay B]

While you have them split, be sure to put new O rings in the fuel supply tubes between the carbs. now's the time to do it.

[Dave-and-his-550]

While you have them split, be sure to put new O rings in the fuel supply tubes between the carbs. now's the time to do it.

Definitely. I had those o-rings left over, thinking it was to much work to take the carbs off. Funny thing though, when I did look at those tubes, the 4 o-rings on them looked NEW! They weren't nearly in as rough shape as the other o-rings like on the jets and the gasket for the float bowl. Makes me wonder, who in the hell cleaned and replaced the o-rings last