Poll

how much antisieze do you use

I use a bunch on every thing
1 (3%)
I use a touch on every thing
4 (12.1%)
I use some on most bolts
12 (36.4%)
I use anti-sieze on bolts I know I'll have to remove again
13 (39.4%)
I don't use anti-sieze at all
1 (3%)
What's anti-sieze
2 (6.1%)

Total Members Voted: 31

Author Topic: anti-sieze  (Read 1337 times)

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76 cb550

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anti-sieze
« on: April 16, 2008, 12:45:50 PM »
1. do I need to apply more torque to a bolt that is suppose to be applied dry if I put anti-sieze on it.

2. Are bolts more likely to work themselves out of the case if they have anti-sieze on them

3. I have aluminum anti-sieze...should I have copper instead

4. Is there anything I should NOT use anti-sieze on (I'm sure there is...stupid question in hindsight)

5. the haynes manual says that I need to apply locktite to a bolt (damper fixing socket socket cap screw: clymers calls it the piston rod thread...while I'm reassembling the front forks on my cb550k...anyone know which bolt this is and is the loctite really necessary?  I think they are talking about the allen bolt in the bottom but I stripped that thing getting it out in the first place...I'd hate to put loctite on it without being sure I need to.

« Last Edit: April 16, 2008, 01:16:14 PM by 76 cb550 »

Offline nickjtc

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2008, 12:54:58 PM »
I use 'Never Seize' on any bolts which are likely to suffer from the ravages of moisture. Also on stainless bolts going in to alloy.....apparently this is a good thing. Anyone?
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76 cb550

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2008, 12:59:13 PM »
It's my understanding that it is specifically used for dissimilair metals touching.  The different metals fuse through electrolysis.  The anti-sieze prevents this so yes I'm pretty sure it's good to use antisieze when putting a steel bolt into an alloy (non-steel metal)

Offline BobbyR

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2008, 01:26:18 PM »
1. do I need to apply more torque to a bolt that is suppose to be applied dry if I put anti-sieze on it.

This is what would be called a wet torque, so you would up the torque by 10%. However if the bolt has been torqued already so it has been stretched. I would use the dry torque.

2. Are bolts more likely to work themselves out of the case if they have anti-sieze on them.

No, it insulates the two metal surfaces from each other. It also hardens a bit and fills the voids in the threads a bit.


3. I have aluminum anti-sieze...should I have copper instead

Copper is really for high heat use.

4. Is there anything I should NOT use anti-sieze on (I'm sure there is...stupid question in hindsight)

Well you would not use low temp anti sieze on exhaust flange bolts due to the heat.

5. the haynes manual says that I need to apply locktite to a bolt (damper fixing socket socket cap screw: clymers calls it the piston rod thread...while I'm reassembling the front forks on my cb550k...anyone know which bolt this is and is the loctite really necessary?  I think they are talking about the allen bolt in the bottom but I stripped that thing getting it out in the first place...I'd hate to put loctite on it without being sure I need to.

I am not certain which bolt they are referring to. In most cases the milder Loctites are fine. This product also insulates the two metals.
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76 cb550

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2008, 01:30:29 PM »
so the (mild) loctite could actually make it easier to remove this bolt again in 30 years by preventing electrolysis=).  That's priceless.

Offline KB02

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2008, 04:57:19 AM »
I use Never Seize, especially when working on exhaust stuff. Those bolts really tend to rust solid and the never seize really helps.
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Offline MRieck

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2008, 05:11:40 AM »
 I use the copper never seize on stainless fastners going into aluminum.
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Offline ieism

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2008, 05:08:44 PM »
I'm having a little trouble finding this stuff here.....Is copper "never seize" something completely different from normal copper grease?
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Offline MRieck

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2008, 07:34:27 PM »
I'm having a little trouble finding this stuff here.....Is copper "never seize" something completely different from normal copper grease?
No...it is "copaslip" (or something like that) in Europe
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Offline medic09

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2008, 09:44:18 PM »
I put just a little on the spark plug threads.  They go in easy and come out easy.  No hassles.
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Offline MoTo-BunnY

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2008, 10:44:05 PM »
I put just a little on the spark plug threads.  They go in easy and come out easy.  No hassles.

what he said!  ;D  saved me MUCHO hassle over the years - especially on the old air-cooled VWs plugs and exhaust studs / nuts.


Now, if they would only come out with an "anti-SLEAZE" compound, I would buy a 5 gallon bucket of it and coat a few of the ornery critters that live around around here (the neighborhood homeless bums, and a couple of local old guys that hit on me WAY too often and without class.  ..lol)    ::)
« Last Edit: June 12, 2008, 03:49:54 AM by MoTo-BunnY »
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Offline crazypj

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2008, 11:03:37 PM »
1. do I need to apply more torque to a bolt that is suppose to be applied dry if I put anti-sieze on it.

Less torque as bolt is spinning easier

2. Are bolts more likely to work themselves out of the case if they have anti-sieze on them

 not if they are torqued correctly


3. I have aluminum anti-sieze...should I have copper instead

How hot is it getting?

4. Is there anything I should NOT use anti-sieze on (I'm sure there is...stupid question in hindsight)

not a good idea on brake pads, rotors or drums/shoes  ;D

5. the haynes manual says that I need to apply locktite to a bolt (damper fixing socket socket cap screw: clymers calls it the piston rod thread...while I'm reassembling the front forks on my cb550k...anyone know which bolt this is and is the loctite really necessary?  I think they are talking about the allen bolt in the bottom but I stripped that thing getting it out in the first place...I'd hate to put loctite on it without being sure I need to.

 I never re-loctite them.
you mean you rounded it out, if its stripped you need a new damper rod




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Offline hymodyne

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Re: anti-sieze
« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2008, 03:23:31 AM »
I put just a little on the spark plug threads.  They go in easy and come out easy.  No hassles.

+1

hym
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