Topic: color match clear coat or other spray can

[cb650 bobber]

Had a guy tell me color match clear out of a can will resist gas. I havent been able to find any information on it....any info on this or other clear coat that is tough out of a can...I know it is better to use a spray gun and fancy clear coat...I don't see that happening at this time on this bike...

[kghost]

Don't look at me...I use the fancy stuff...which isn't really all that expensive....

I wish someone would do some research and post thier findings....

[mystic_1]

I posted some of my experiences in this thread.  Basically I find that Duplicolor engine enamels and caliper paints resist gas reasonably well once fully cured but for some reason the black resists solvents somewhat better than the silver.  They do not resist gas AT ALL until cured.  I was testing gasoline resistance by applying small quantities (several drops) onto painted parts for up two two minutes, then wiping clean.  Cured paints seemed to do fairly well, worst result was a loss of gloss.  I know from past experience that prolonged exposure to larger quantities of gas will discolor the paint.  I imagine that other engine enamels perform similarly.

No spraypaint will ever match the durability of a two-part paint, unless that spraypaint IS a two-part paint, ala Spraymax.

mystic_1

[kghost]

I posted some of my experiences in this thread.  Basically I find that Duplicolor engine enamels and caliper paints resist gas reasonably well once fully cured but for some reason the black resists solvents somewhat better than the silver.  They do not resist gas AT ALL until cured.  I was testing gasoline resistance by applying small quantities (several drops) onto painted parts for up two two minutes, then wiping clean.  Cured paints seemed to do fairly well, worst result was a loss of gloss.  I know from past experience that prolonged exposure to larger quantities of gas will discolor the paint.  I imagine that other engine enamels perform similarly.

No spraypaint will ever match the durability of a two-part paint, unless that spraypaint IS a two-part paint, ala Spraymax.

mystic_1

I said it at the time and I'll say it again...THAT was a good paint post.

Ya should do a whole write up with pictures for the FAQ mystic.

[mystic_1]

Thanks KG, I guess I should, already about half way there between these two threads lol.  I'd need to take some pics of what I've done so far, and I'm actually wanting to try another brand (probably VHT) just for comparison.

I'll be going with the Duplicolor in black, I think, I've used it before with satisfactory results.  Have been debating spraying the cases black this time around which is why I'm even bothering to futz around like this.

cheers
mystic_1

[nickjtc]

Slightly off topic, sorry. Will high temperature (engine) paints work on a motorcycle muffler? I suspect they won't work on the pipe itself.....

[hymodyne]

I've used high heat engine paints with success on pipes and high heat clear on my old canister(aluminum). 

[Geeto67]

rustoleum "stops rust" paints tend to be very good at resisting fuel. However they need to fully cure and that can take at least 30 days.

BTW, all paint is air dry so I don't understand this comment on air dry paints not being fuel resistant. Typically base coat paints and single stage paints have less fuel resistance qualities than other paints, espically if they are matte finishes. Most finishes have their fuel resistance as a quality of the clear.

Colorite sells two part aerosol cans that are fuel resistant. The also sell them in factory colors for most bikes (my favorites right now are 2004 Honda Matte Uranium and 2007-08 HD suede Oilve Pearl). Not cheap but it will be a quality paint vs the single stage out of a can stuff...

If you really want durability and don't mind painting with a roller - interlux brightside yacht paint is a good choice. Hella tough single stage poly (it is basically the same as Maaco's Ambassador single stage poly) that is self leveling and can be wetsanded, polished, and buffed. No matte paints but you can easily get that effect by appling the gloss then wetsanding and polishing with coarse rubbing compound (not buffing compound). @$35 a gallon at my local boat supply store I betcha it is the cheapest thing going.

[mystic_1]

It should be noted that curing is a totally different process from drying.  After spraying, the paint first dries as the carrier solvents evaporate, then the remaining dried layer cures as tiem goes on.  Even two-part auto paints need time to cure, this is why, when you buy a brand new car or have one repainted, they often tell you to wait a month before waxing.  Catalyzed paints cure as a result of chemical interactions between the catylist and the paint.  Spray paint cures via exposure to oxygen.

You can lay down many coats of catalyzed paint, and it will all harden (cure) properly.  The main problem is outgassing from lower layers during the drying phase messes up the upper layers.  If you heap on too much spraypaint, it will not dry well and the lower layers won't cure.

Wikipedia has a nice article on paint that talks about this:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint

I guess I should also say that in Real Life, I'm an IT manager and systems developer.  That said, I've been a shade-tree mechanic since I could hold a wrench, thanks to my dad who was a bit of a renaissance man (although he doesn't realize it and wouldn't agree if you told him he was).  The info I have is what I've learned over the years and also from internet research.  I'm by no means a professional and it's entirely possible I'm talking out of my ass, so take that for what you will

Bottom line, if you're on a budget, use whatever inexpensive, heat-resistant paint seems cool to you, and know that you'll be touching it up should you ever spill fuel or solvent on it.  If you have a few extra bucks, spring for two-part spraycans.  For a Real Paint Job, use a compressor setup and a good quality two-part paint.

BTW I think I would be remiss if I didn't mention POR-15 here.  I've never used the stuff but I hear good things about it here and elsewhere.  Like the paint Geeto mentions, POR-15 is a brush-on self-leveling paint.  Should be good for engine cases and bodywork but I wonder how well it would go onto cooling fins on the head and cylinder.  They also sell some nice "painting kits" there with cleaners, brushes, masks, etc included.

Has anyone here ever test Spraymax for heat resistance? 

cheers
mystic_1

[kghost]

I have worked in a body shop and painted extensively....

Mystic is spot on.