Topic: My first cam chain adj. Right or ?

[bozo4onion]

I just finished (I hope) my first cam chain tensioner adjustment on my 75 CB550F w/17K on the clock. I'm going to sync. the carbs and want to follow the accepted protocol which is basically do EVERYTHING then sync the carbs, right? I rotated the crank to TDC and checked tappets on #1. Loose. Added 15 degrees. I loosened the 10mm lock nut. When it came loose the adjusting screw may have moved slightly or not. When the nut gave I momentarily (dammit) lost sight of the screw. When I tried to turn the screw counterclockwise (per Clymer) it would not go far w/o stopping. I didn't want to force it too much after the horror stories I read when I did a search. When turning the screw clockwise it felt like I was turning against a tightening spring (imagine that) and when released, the screw returned to the original position. I guess the question here is have I adjusted the cam chain? Thanks.

[fastbroshi]

  I was pretty clueless until mine seized up on the stud!!    So off with it's head - has to come off to get that bugger out of there.  The spring in there is designed to hold the tension, so you simply loosen the nut while holding the stud to make sure it doesn't turn.  When loose the mechanism will put all of its force into tightening the chain, kinda like a belt tensioner on a modern automobile serpentine system.  Depending on wear, you may "see" it move a lot, probably not at all.  Then just hold the stud while tightening the nut.  I put anti seize on mine given what happened.
  These are a known weak link on these bikes, but IMO, just because it's so easy to jack up/ignore during regular maintenance.  I've yet to hear anyone wax poetic on how they religiously adjust theirs. 

Queue for those who have to chime in.

Also helps to have the dog watch.

 

[bistromath]

Yep, assuming the adjuster is free, you properly adjusted it. But often the adjuster freezes, and in that case, you have to apply tension to the bolt with a screwdriver while tightening the nut. This is best done while the engine is running; tension the camchain by turning the bolt COUNTER-CLOCKWISE (!!) such that the camchain noise is somewhere between "bucket-of-nuts-rattle" and "congested whine". Then hold that tension on the bolt while you tighten the nut. But if you don't hear any adverse camchain noise (besides the normal rattling of an old air-cooled Honda), don't worry about it.

[bozo4onion]

I assumed that turning the screw clockwise tightened the chain, no?

[bistromath]

no sir.

[bozo4onion]

What is the springy resistance I feel when I turn the screw clockwise. I assumed this was the tensioner pushing against the chain. Guess I better look at a picture of the unit.

[bistromath]

that's you tightening the tensioner spring, drawing the tensioner blade away from the camchain, loosening it.

[bozo4onion]

Thanks bistro, I'm trapped in perpetual noobland. I think I'm the mayor. Had the bike almost a year, too long, shoulda' known better yada yada. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks again. BTW since my screw is free and I feel the previously mentioned tension do you think I'm good to go and the system is functioning properly?.

[bistromath]

probably. if you can't hear the camchain rattling like a bucket of bolts you're good to go.

[bozo4onion]

Thanks bistro, I just timed the beast after setting new Honda points and the bike is nearly silent (well for a SOHC 550F w/MAC). I haven't even synchronized yet and I can't believe how smooth it runs. BTW it seems the bike was tuned previously by Stevie Wonder as the timing was in another zip code from where it should have been. Strangely, the valve ticking is now gone. The bike sounds so good I'm skipping valve adjustment and going straight to Morgan Carbtuning. I'm having way too much fun tonight. Thanks all.