Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[andy750]

Just for reference:
Superbike bars



versus euro bars



but I am sure as you mention Ron they all differ in styles.
Andy

[MCRider]

Andy: Great comparison. Thanks.  That's exactly it in concept. My Eurobars may have even a slight more pullback.

Makes a big difference in long haul wrist comfort.

[andy750]

Yes I agree about the pull back and long distance comfort - these partic euro bars in my picture dont have enough pull back for that unlike yours which look much better. Also the stock K1 bars are much better in that regard.

[MCRider]

Another shop day:
Mocked the carbs up to gauge the length of the throttle cables and ordered them from motionpro.

Realized that the VM29s have a big mother fuel intake, larger than a 1/4".

Remembered that 32 years ago I used this T to go from the big feed on the carbs to the 2 5.5 mm on the petcock. But my new tank uses the left side bung style petcock with only 1 nip on the petcock. I'm thinking I can cut and block off half the T.

Disassembled and cleaned upthe coils. Thoroughly filthy from oil leakage of Phaedrus I. When I parked it, it was leaking from many orifices. I thought it was the fork seals that were the culprit, and they were, but i also discovered the oil cooler radiator also had a leak.

The coils worked when I parked it, famous last words, hope they still do.
Removed the valve cover and installed the locking tab on the tach drive, previously left off. Cam cover on permanent now, holddown studs tightened up, hope it doesn't leak.

Waiting on cables, received a sub-harness from Yamiya, love those guys. Carbs and electric next week, lets hope.

[wannabridin]

the chrome on those carbs looks GREAT!!  methinks i might have to change mine up a little with some elbow grease on the polishing wheel!  :-D

[MCRider]

the chrome on those carbs looks GREAT!!  methinks i might have to change mine up a little with some elbow grease on the polishing wheel!  :-D

Thanks. Going for that "70s" look.   

[bwaller]

Ron, those smoothbores do use a 5/16" fuel line. If by chance you have trouble with fuel starvation with that bigger engine ... instead of bushing down to 1/4" to match your petcock, could you cut-off the 1/4" nipple and weld in a 5/16" in it's place? Then enlarge the orifice inside after. Another option would be a 5/16" Pingle.

Looking good man.

[MCRider]

Yeah, its a gaping maw. But just one. The T I had used had veryu small openings on each end. I'm surprised i didn't have fuel starve issues running it before (it was a big engine then too.0 I don't think both added together equalled 5.5mm.

So if I open up the one end to at least 5.5mm, and close the other end, with some glue or such, I should be OK. I found some "so 70s" braided clear fuel line that fits.

I'll try to avoid messing with the stock fuel tap. If I did want to mess with it. I think those nipples are pressed in and can be worried out carefully.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Ron, as always, looking good mate, I'd never seen a set of Andrews coils before, so that was a new one on me.

I've had that problem with fuel hose (and water hoses on cars) mis-matches before and have just machines up an adapter so I can run the stock size hose from the petcock to the adapter, then larger dia hose from the adapter to the carbs. I know you don't have a lathe there, but I'll bet you can buy the adapters somewhere? Also, a lot of fuel filters have the barb fittings like on your T piece to allow different size fuel hose.

I wouldn't mess about blocking off one end of your "T" piece though, the last thing you want to risk is a fuel leak. Cheers, Terry.

[bwaller]

That's a better idea Terry. Perhaps plumb the adaptor as close as feasible to the petcock & Bob's your uncle. 

[MCRider]

Thanks Terry and bwaller. A straight thru adapter is on the list. In the interest of expediency I'll modify the T to get er done.

I'm putting several things on hold in the interest of getting it started. Like the oil cooler, the horn and light relays, the fuel line adapter, in the interest of getting it started, and a little shakedown. I can always add the other stuff.

I caught a doozie of a cold so I'm in bed no shop time today.   

[Terry in Australia]

I'm putting several things on hold in the interest of getting it started. Like the oil cooler, the horn and light relays, the fuel line adapter, in the interest of getting it started, and a little shakedown. I can always add the other stuff.

I caught a doozie of a cold so I'm in bed no shop time today.   

What? You serious Ron? C'mon mate, at your rate of progress the oil cooler, horn and light relays will only take you another year or two, are you sure you wanna rush it? Ha ha, just taking the piss mate, and get well soon, I had the flu two weeks ago and I think I'm coming down with a spring cold, so I feel for ya! Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

I'm putting several things on hold in the interest of getting it started. Like the oil cooler, the horn and light relays, the fuel line adapter, in the interest of getting it started, and a little shakedown. I can always add the other stuff.

I caught a doozie of a cold so I'm in bed no shop time today.   

What? You serious Ron? C'mon mate, at your rate of progress the oil cooler, horn and light relays will only take you another year or two, are you sure you wanna rush it? Ha ha, just taking the piss mate, and get well soon, I had the flu two weeks ago and I think I'm coming down with a spring cold, so I feel for ya! Cheers, Terry.

TeeHee, boy I deserved that. I should rename the project IceBerg cause it moves so slow.   

All better now, I'm trying to be healthier and this cold lasted about 3 days vs 1 week. Been a long time as well.

Zinc and Vitamin D and treadmill.    Get over yours quick too.

[MCRider]

As to the fuel line adapter, I'll take the 2 lines to the auto parts store and see what they have. That's where I got the T many years ago.

Wonder what others use? I'm not the only one with VM29s.

[lucky]

Ron, those smoothbores do use a 5/16" fuel line. If by chance you have trouble with fuel starvation with that bigger engine ... instead of bushing down to 1/4" to match your petcock, could you cut-off the 1/4" nipple and weld in a 5/16" in it's place? Then enlarge the orifice inside after. Another option would be a 5/16" Pingle.

Looking good man.

I paid almost $100 for a Pingel fuel valve but it was the best I ever used.
Glass smooth operation.

[Retro Rocket]

I paid almost $100 for a Pingel fuel valve but it was the best I ever used.
Glass smooth operation.

If that was for a 750/4 could you say which model pingle.?

[MCRider]

Got lots started but not much accomplished. Went to put the oil tank on. Pulled the drain plug out for grins and yuck. Magnetic plug covered with scaley bits.

Its been years since I had the tank powdered, and you know what happens to a tank when you let it sit long enough? Well its in the solvent tank now. Hopefully I can get it clean enough that I'm comfortable using it. You'd think I'd learn.

Got the carbs on, not too difficult. Even though the rubber manifolds are 20+ years old they are still pliable. Must be Mikuni uses better materials. Dug out the pods and got them cleaned up.

They on the other hand were hard as rocks even after a good douse with RubberRenew. But besides that they are 40mm and the carb intake is 44mm. I used these in the prior iteration, so I must have crammed them with brute force. K&Ns website says they will stretch 1.5mm, not 4mm. And since they are so hard no way. Guess I'll be ordering some 43/44s.

Can't use the stock airbox, different carbs. But I've got a lot of miles with the pods. Work great. I think the larger engine sizes don't have the problems the 550 and smaller seem to have.

Picked up the exhaust clamps from the powdercoaters, wired up the subharness from Yamiya, futzed around with the coils and misc. Hope to get some work done during the week. Taking a long weekend off with the wifer. School on Fall Break (she drives the bus).

[bwaller]

Ron I have a brand new set of oval K&N's for those carbs. PM sent

[lucky]

I paid almost $100 for a Pingel fuel valve but it was the best I ever used.
Glass smooth operation.

If that was for a 750/4 could you say which model pingle.?

 It was not for the CB750. sorry.

[Retro Rocket]

Can't use the stock airbox, different carbs. But I've got a lot of miles with the pods. Work great. I think the larger engine sizes don't have the problems the 550 and smaller seem to have.

Actuaqlly with standard carbs, the 750's are probably the worst of the bunch....  I would take the K&N's Ron, they are much better than the ones you currently have....  I plan on running an airbox with 34MM RS mikuni's....

[MCRider]

It might be the bigger engine with different carbs that make the pods workable. The stock carbs may not work well with the pods regardless of engine size.

What i have ARE K&Ns, they just don't fit well, and are very hard. I'm afraid if I force them on they'll split making them unusable for any one else.

[RAFster122s]

Well, after you solvent the oil tank then how are you planning on getting rid of the scale in the tank?
Electrolysis works good after you get the biggest of the scale out.
It stops when the rust is converted and doesn't eat the metal like some other methods (acid solutions).

You know it is mid-October and if Indy is anything like Columbus was, you got maybe 6-8 wks at most before the snow is flying. If it is another Snowmageddon year then it could start early.

There's a guy who is riding his '87 Honda C90 from Alaska to Argentina and is the Vancouver area now.  He started his trip in August from Alaska.  He's from Ireland.
I'm thinking he needs to pick up the pace as snow flys early in the northern latitudes...
Maybe he's trying to film a follow up to Dumber and Dumb's frozen scooter trip.
http://hondavstheworld.com/

David

[MCRider]

Well, after you solvent the oil tank then how are you planning on getting rid of the scale in the tank?
Electrolysis works good after you get the biggest of the scale out.
It stops when the rust is converted and doesn't eat the metal like some other methods (acid solutions).

You know it is mid-October and if Indy is anything like Columbus was, you got maybe 6-8 wks at most before the snow is flying. If it is another Snowmageddon year then it could start early.

There's a guy who is riding his '87 Honda C90 from Alaska to Argentina and is the Vancouver area now.  He started his trip in August from Alaska.  He's from Ireland.
I'm thinking he needs to pick up the pace as snow flys early in the northern latitudes...
Maybe he's trying to film a follow up to Dumber and Dumb's frozen scooter trip.
http://hondavstheworld.com/

David

Good question. I thought I'd put pea gravel in and shake it around (I have some left over from other tank treatments) then evaporust (phosphoric acid). But I'll review the posts on electrolysis, might be a cleaner procedure.

The best I'm hoping for before the snow flies is to get it started and shakedown, Then I'll use the winter to finish up details and be ready for the Spring. that's the plan... 

[MCRider]

Just got my cables from Motion-Pro. The clutch and throttles have been shortened to match my lower bars. One of those things I'd always wanted were proper length cables. The stockers worked but had to be rerouted and looped out front for the extra length.

They are the "ArmorCoat" version. Stainless Steel braid in a clear vinyl sheath. Even the tach and speedo cable. Way cool, and match the Goodridge clearcoated stainless braid brake lines.

If bwaller's pods fit, I'll have that issue taken care of. I could've got them from K&N, but its always good to help a member with their "inventory adjustments" when possible.

[Pecantree]

MCRider:
You've gained another fan! I've spent the last week reading from the beginning of your build posts. I admire your restraint to do it like YOU want. I'm gonna try and be as methodical and thorough as you are in your build when I do mine. I'm hooked. Also, Thanks for the excellent pictures and posts!
Steve