Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

So, I sold the black BikeMaster chaini and received the Gold Regina chain. Needed to make the swap so I can deliver the black chain to buyer.

old

new

The difference in look is a lot more in person. Very happy. Clip and Rivet links provided. I'll use the clip.

[CBJoe]

Hey Ron,

Chain looks great!

No...not military.  I work on Clinical and Research Laboratory equipment and one of our manufacturing and training facilities is in Switzerland.  I go there sometimes for training or other projects.  I don't normally travel much but I was there for 3 weeks in July and now 3 weeks in September for a new project....Hopefully Rose doesn't lock me out of the house .

I'm very much planning on going to the Steer In event with the Triple (barring bad weather of course).  Been Riding it a lot over the last couple weeks and it's a blast.  This winter i'm going to replace a lot of the nuts and bolts hardware stuff and put some $$ into good suspension and brake work.

Cheers, Joe

[MCRider]

Thanks Joe: Travel safe; I'll try to get to the Steer Inn, but it won't be with Phaedrus...yet.

Getting the clip on the chain was a #$%*. I swear I'll never do another one until I get the proper tool. But we got it on and the clip properly set. Clamping pliars, hammer and the shims that came with the chain. The shims keep you from driving the sideplate on too far and crushing the ORings.

We unpacked the cylinders again and installed without rings aand gaskets, to check the deck height of the pistons to cyl deck.

We cut some pieces of hard PPVC to shim up the cyl studs. Using 4 spots, the 2 inside rear and 2 of the middle fronts, we tightened them down to snug with an open end wrench. It was indicated to me this should be enough.



MEasured at the pin, I judge the pistons are proud of the deck by a few thou. The base gasket is 10thou, the head gasket is 40thou. (per CycleX)  Once they are crushed completely there should still be 40thou of clearance. I've been told by Mike this should be enough. All 4 pistons are the same.



We'll do  a few more tests before lighting it up, but we should be OK.

Next weekend we'll be vacationing in West Baden IN. The domed historic hotel is one of the numbered wonders of the world. The restored rooms are pricey, but that's what the wifer wants and she is the core of what we do.

http://www.historichotels.org/hotels-resorts/west-baden-springs-hotel/

See you afterwards. Have a great Labor Day!

[MRieck]

Looks good Ron.

[MCRider]

Looks good Ron.

Thanks, saved me a PM. 

[RAFster122s]

Pretty cool hotel Ron. Glad to see the motor coming together, will it be on the streets before snow flies?

[MCRider]

Pretty cool hotel Ron. Glad to see the motor coming together, will it be on the streets before snow flies?

Yeah, within the month is the plan.

[MCRider]

Had a beautiful time at West Baden Springs Hotel. Closest thing to So Cal luxury Indiana has to offer. And amazing history.

Hope to get going on some engine assembly tomorrow. I forgot to ask, does one use gasket sealer on the cycleX MLS base gasket?

[MCRider]

Another few steps along the way.

I was alerted to the fact that the Ti rocker arm nuts I had were possibly not made right. In fact that was true. This nut is tight against the rocker arm. But I can still get a feeler gauge, probably bigger than this, under one side of the nut.

We checked all and 6 of the 8 seemed to be lopsided.
Vendor made good on them. All 8 of the replacement nuts from same vendor were true.

Moving on to the knock pins under the cyls. The parts book cals for 15mm. The ones I have are all 18mm. Measuring the holes, combined for the cases and cyls, they can accommodate a 22mm knock pin. Dropping the cyls on with the 18mm knocks, they dropped onto the cases with a satisfying klunk, sns gasket. So we're OK with them.

Removed the pistons and began installing the rings. Checking each ring end gap, using the pisto to push it into the bore.



Some of the rings were a bit sticky in the grooves. So dressing the ends (which had been ground by the machinist for the proper end gap, but sometimes leaving a burr) was in order, and a little dressing of the grooves as well. Not quite finished with that.

[HondaMan]

You sure have pretty parts, Ron! 

[RAFster122s]

Thanks for the update Ron, like HondaMan has said, pretty parts indeed.

[MCRider]

Thanks guys. I do work under the banner "if it don't go, chrome it". Even though the cyls aren't chrome exactly, same idea.   

Mike bought those cyls off eBay (I think) and is responsible for their condition.

[MCRider]

This actually last weeks update. I got to feeling under the weather, blood pressure drifting higher.

Finished fitting the rings. One trick to know if your rings are free in the groove without fitting them is to roll the ring in the groove from outside. Either they'd be free or we might expect a hangup at the ends f the rig. A burr as a result of the end gapping process.



Total Seal rings, supplied by MRieck, really cool. Read up on them, top notch stuff. They were as expected: top ring unique color, a reddish result of moly treatment I'd guess.


Scraper ring dark color. Both have markings to indicate tops.

Mic'd the MLS base gasket. Been told to allow 10thou. That's what I got as well.


Super paranoid about the knock pins between the cyl and case. Since I have new to me cyls, we dummy fitted it one more time. Dowels fit with 4thou to spare.

Bot some OEM fin dampeners. A little pricey, but I've spent more for less, might as well make this as complete as possible.

While waiting for my BP to normalize, I can at least sit at the computer and do some eBay sales. I should have enough extra parts to sell to fund the rest of the project.

Maybe buy a lift too.   

[MRieck]

I like that device you have that holds the Honda manual Ron....very nice.

[MCRider]

I like that device you have that holds the Honda manual Ron....very nice.

I looked the world over for a bookstand that was adjustable and flexible. And reasonably priced. Found it at Office Depot for about $10 I think.

http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/324396/Office-Depot-Brand-Book-And-Copy/?Channel=Google&mr:trackingCode=85F788C2-EDFB-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=22395426956&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=20224360076&cm_mmc=Mercent-_-Googlepla-_-Technology+Computer_Tablet_Accessories-_-324396#reviewTab

5 of 5 stars. Guess we're not the only ones that like it! 

[jerry h]

119 pages..... and I learn something new every time I stop by, Thanks Ron!

Everything looks so beautiful, its almost a shame to put it all together and be hidden inside the engine!

[MCRider]

119 pages..... and I learn something new every time I stop by, Thanks Ron!

Everything looks so beautiful, its almost a shame to put it all together and be hidden inside the engine!

You're welcome.

Yes, some pretty parts, I'll admit.

[MCRider]

BP settled for now, back to work. Placed the rubber fin dampers, little blobs of gold.


Installed the pistons. Trick: Insert a #3 Philips or similar size, into the pin hole. Then, when the clip decides to flip out, it is caught on the shaft rather than zinging across the shop.



30 minutes of work takes 3 hours. Got the hang of the clips, ... by the 4th one.

Did some other prep work, tinkered in the shop. Ready to drop the cyls on next week.   

[MCRider]

LAst week and today's update combined. Putting the cyls on was a comedy of errors. When we did it last time, it was on the bench. This time it was in the frame, so we were on the floor. (A lift is in our future.)  LASt week we really struggled. Got 1&4 on but couldn't get 2&3 on. Gave up.





Came back at it fresh. Still couldn't get it. Bruce suggested starting over. He suggested we do 2&3 first. That puts the problems at the outside where we can touch them.  Made new wooden shims to stabilize the pistons. Cyls dropped right on. Moved the clamps out to 1&4 which we could stabilize with our hands. Cyls dropped right on again. Yay! No pics, except the proof:


Friend gave me this really neat period KG rack. With the tall sissy bar this thing can carry a load. Was mounted on a 750K4, so some brckts may be missing. But its well made, adjustable, has about 30 years of dust on it, and its for sale. Just in this thread. No takers, by the time I get it cleaned up its going on eBay.

[CBJoe]

Looking good Ron....I always have to remind myself to take baby steps when things get frustrating and concede to start over when needed  

Winters creeping up fast!  Had to park the bikes already for the winter due to work travel and being too busy to enjoy riding.  XS750 is going into phase two of the build this winter (suspension and exhaust modification), so I just decided to park it and plan.

Now on to insulating the garage.

Cheers, Joe

[MCRider]

Looking good Ron....I always have to remind myself to take baby steps when things get frustrating and concede to start over when needed  

Winters creeping up fast!  Had to park the bikes already for the winter due to work travel and being too busy to enjoy riding.  XS750 is going into phase two of the build this winter (suspension and exhaust modification), so I just decided to park it and plan.

Now on to insulating the garage.

Cheers, Joe

When we did it last year, it was on the bench. So reaching 2 & 3 to make sure they weren't rocking was easy. I don't remember a problem, went pretty fast.

But in the frame it was more difficult. 1&4, the ones we'd made shims for, were easy, dropped right on. But 2&3 were difficult. They would rock, a ring would pop out from under the clamp, and we'd have to stop, reset the clamps and try again. Several hours.

So at Bruce's suggestion, we pulled the cyls off and made shims for 2&3. The cyls dropped right on, rings went up the sleeves. Then we reset the clamps on 1&4. We could hold one each straight up and down. With no rocking the cyls dropped right on. (a small rubber hammer tapping) The clamps slid down, rings up, and all seems all right. Whew!

Next is the head, with cam timing.

Hope to see your XS next year, and show off Phaedrus.

Insulating makes it comfy. 3X more in ceiling than walls. If you're going to install heaters, I can't rave enough about the infrared jobs I put in my shop last fall. They are instant on, silent, fully adjustable. They heat items, including the floor, and your body, rather than air, definitely worth the 2X they cost over forced air (electric or gas).

[Tintop]

Looking good Ron, nice to see it progressing again.  Finished insulating the shop space, just waiting for the electrician to come this weekend and hookup the new panel.  Question - what brand were the radiant heater you got?  Thinking I'm going to go with electric too.

[MCRider]

Looking good Ron, nice to see it progressing again.  Finished insulating the shop space, just waiting for the electrician to come this weekend and hookup the new panel.  Question - what brand were the radiant heater you got?  Thinking I'm going to go with electric too.

Fostoria: I got 2 of these, with a grill and temptroller (The $95 ones) each:
http://www.air-n-water.com/product/och-57-240v-ss.htm

I did the math on operation: full temp for 10hrs costs about $10 around here. What I've found is I'm only in the shop 5-8 hours a week, and full temp will simply cook you in your skin, especially the top of your head (and I have high ceilings, heaters are about 9ft off floor). So operation is cheap, quiet (no fans) and clean. The temptrollers are worth it.

[CBJoe]

Interesting...My garage is only a 1.5 car garage.   Need to read up on those a little more to see how they would work for me.  I would guess that there are specs on the UV Shadow to show you coverage dependent on how high they are mounted. 

Then would have to figure out power to the garage...I think I simply have a 40A breaker run from the box in my house out to it.  I would guess I'd have to have a new power box run to the place.

Currently deciding how I want to insulate the place.... its just open framework at the moment with a concrete floor.

Joe

[Tintop]

Thanks for the info Ron.  I have an electrician coming next week to wire in a 100amp panel, and hook up the compressor.  Place is insulated with R20 (walls & ceiling).  I have 10 1/2+ ft of ceiling height, about 450 sq ft.  So something like this would likely work.