Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

Thanks for the info Ron.  I have an electrician coming next week to wire in a 100amp panel, and hook up the compressor.  Place is insulated with R20 (walls & ceiling).  I have 10 1/2+ ft of ceiling height, about 450 sq ft.  So something like this would likely work.

Yeah, I have a 60 amp service, with 30 reserved for the heaters I think. (6000w / 220v =27.27 amps)  About 340sf. Nice thing with 2 heaters you can always throttle 1 to near off and still heat the area where you're standing. By not heating the air, you don't have to heat the whole room all the time.  I have a 40" doorway to the main garage which is covered with a heavy curtain but that's all. So even though I'm heavily insulated elsewhere, I have 1 big problem, and the heaters are fine with it.

Ever seen chicks in an incubator? That's what it feels like. Cuddly warm.

The heaters hang from chains, we used a flexible conduit to run the wires. So you can adjust them higher or lower. They heat is a "tent" shaped pattern below the bulb, so the higher they are the bigger the tent, and v/v.

Enjoy.

[Tintop]

Mine was a crappy double car garage originally.  Got rid of the uninsulated double door, and reframed for a man door and single car door (both insulated).  Nice a tight now, I'll take a couple of pic's and post in the sidecar thread.

[MCRider]

Mine was a crappy double car garage originally.  Got rid of the uninsulated double door, and reframed for a man door and single car door (both insulated).  Nice a tight now, I'll take a couple of pic's and post in the sidecar thread.

Been looking at your thread, no pics yet?

Sounds like its tight. How old are you? I was 52 when I finally got my shop. Older with the heaters. Hope to spend a lot of time out there.

[bwaller]

Warm shop in the wintertime.....awesome. 

[Tintop]

Some pics posted to the sidecar thread Ron.

[MCRider]

Some pics posted to the sidecar thread Ron.

Saw them. Nice size shop, sidehack takes up some room, bet that's fun. Gotta look at your vids.

If you get the infrared heaters another characteristic is when you open a door, you don't lose all your heat. Since the air is not the medium, a nasty draft won't make as much difference, the workbench and the project is still warm. My workbench has a metal top and gets noticeably warm to the touch.

[MCRider]

Gotta give Carpy his due. I'd been waiting for them to get a plain ribbed brake stay in stock. They had the ones that say "CAFE RACER" and "TON UP" on them, but I wanted a plain one. So it reappeared on their website Wednesday. I ordered it. He charged me $6.50 for S&H. It came on Sat Priority Mail. Good delivery service.

I had one from Joker, but it was his dimples/holes motif and I'm going with ribs and fins. So I sold it to a Forum Member. Someone ought to build a café with all Joker parts, that'd be cool.




First hour we spent washing the Burgman. Could be the last day warm enough to do so. It's been neglected for years, and had a layer of shop dust that would grow potatoes. If I expect to ever ride again, it'll likely need to be a step thru, like the Burgman.

We installed the head. Using Ken at CycleX protocol, it requires tightening and loosening the nuts 5 times. This gets the nut threads and the stud threads to "get to know each other". But very time consuming. We also painted a light coat of Gasgacinch around sensitive areas above and below the MLS gasket, with a Q-Tip.

The 4 bolts down the middle are hard to get to with the frame backbone in the way. We put together a wrench with a long impact bit, 8mm socket and a 1/4 in drive.


Got to use the new torque U wrench, hi tech clicker. Don't know if its actually a god one or not, did the best job shopping I could, but everyone's got an opinion.


Not quite done yet, needs a few more iterations. Then on to timing the cam.

[Tintop]

Nice looking brake stay Ron.  I think my little 1/4" ratchet is probably the most used in my box.

Tip on the torque wrench, always reset in back to it's '0' (10lb?) after use.  Never go lower though, as that will screw up the calibration!!.  Looks like a quality one you've got.  Mines a Snap-On, and I give to the dealer to have the calibration checked every couple of years.

Shops going to be somewhat tight this winter as I'll have 2 sidecars on stands, my 550 parked, and at least one other bike project.  OH, and I've got to get the pocket bike rebuilt so it can be the pit bike next year.

[MCRider]

I saw that pit bike, cute!

[Tintop]

Trying to figure out how to make it a mini sidecar.   Should have a blazing top speed of about 20mph.

[MCRider]

No update for the weekend. Wifey had arranged a weekend in Amish country, B&B. Host was a former Amish, left the Church but still had ties. Had dinner at a Amish farm, family style. No Amish there over 30. 21 guests, great time. Had an Amish Carriage ride. Driver was 23 yo, had left at 16, but came back to the Church. Simple life, but getting harder, lots of contradictions. Propane is OK, lights, heat, but no electricity, except the generators at the back door.  Didn't detract from a nice trip.

So did some midweek shoptime to make up. Finished the 5 iterations of tighten / loosen of the head nuts suggested by Ken at CycleX. 12/15/18 ft lbs, loosen, repeat, till the threads "get to know each other". Takes time. Best "feel" to the result ever.

Those head nuts are monsters. Got them from Mike, KEn has a nice compare picture on his website, but here's one:

Nice feel to the new tork rench, clicker. Ratchet features make me forget the struggle with the old boom wrench. I'd forgotten it is actually a Snap-on:

Photobucket acting up, going to bed. Cam is next.

[MCRider]

Cam is in, rockers, etc.  Ti parts, wasp waste rocker pins, new tappets, etc.

More bling from Carpy: Turned down and ribbed oil filter cover, matching, sort of, the brake stay and axle spacer.

Degreeinig is next. I'll study up on it during the week to knock it out next week.

[brandEn]

Looks good Ron! I see you used the two dome nuts and copper washers on the oil feeds. I did that too, another good tip from Mike.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Cam is in, rockers, etc.  Ti parts, wasp waste rocker pins, new tappets, etc.

More bling from Carpy: Turned down and ribbed oil filter cover, matching, sort of, the brake stay and axle spacer.

Degreeinig is next. I'll study up on it during the week to knock it out next week.

I got one of those ribbed oil covers, too, but I'm selling it.  It looks great, but I switched to a spin on/off model.  Anyone who wants it, let me know.

[MCRider]

So, we jumped in to degreeing the cam. Removed the left side engine covers. Long allens on a speeder wrench:


Removes the rotor bolt: 5th gear, crank up the brake adjuster. 1/2 breaker bar and it came loose. Maybe it wasn't tight enough to begin with? Well we'll fix that going back together.


Big blue degree wheel facing starboard:


Found "true TDC" with handy dandy APE piston stop tool.

Got stalled at the actual calculations of degreeing it. Called Mike. He reminded me to set everything the way it will be when running and to time the cam like it was a stocker, in the center of the sprockets slots.  Dang!

That may have been the problem. The way I had the chain on the sprocket, even with the slots I probably couldn't get it to time up. Partial disassembly, reset the chain on the sprocket, ready to try again, maybe tomorrow night. Shouldn't be hard, we did it a year ago, wasn't so tough. Just not holding tongue right.

[grcamna2]

No update for the weekend. Wifey had arranged a weekend in Amish country, B&B. Host was a former Amish, left the Church but still had ties. Had dinner at a Amish farm, family style. No Amish there over 30. 21 guests, great time. Had an Amish Carriage ride. Driver was 23 yo, had left at 16, but came back to the Church. Simple life, but getting harder, lots of contradictions. Propane is OK, lights, heat, but no electricity, except the generators at the back door.  Didn't detract from a nice trip.

So did some midweek shoptime to make up. Finished the 5 iterations of tighten / loosen of the head nuts suggested by Ken at CycleX. 12/15/18 ft lbs, loosen, repeat, till the threads "get to know each other". Takes time. Best "feel" to the result ever.

Those head nuts are monsters. Got them from Mike, KEn has a nice compare picture on his website, but here's one:

Nice feel to the new tork rench, clicker. Ratchet features make me forget the struggle with the old boom wrench. I'd forgotten it is actually a Snap-on:

Photobucket acting up, going to bed. Cam is next.

Ron,
    I'd like to try using that cyl. head nut torque method on many of my engines & wanted a little more info on it.
                                            Bill

[MCRider]

Sure. This all came about as I am using CycleX (Ken) HD nuts, which are taller and thicker than stock, and APE studs. Upon first threading them on, with about 5lbs, the stud was shy of being flush with the tops of the nuts by a thread or two. So I called Ken to see if this would be all right. He said he's seen differences in stud maker's lengths. HE said the nuts are taller than stock and so much beefier that being shy a thread or two they would still be much stronger than stock.

But he went on to tell me to try what they do on their race bikes. Go ahead and draw down the head by torqing the nuts according to the pattern in the book. Go in steps like all 10lbs, then 12.5; then 15lbs then whatever is next. I'm using 18lbs which is more than stock but less than the studs can hold. Then loosen all nuts and do it again. 5 times. What this does is "burnish" the threads, so they "get to know each other". Both were quotes from Ken.

He said to use high pressure grease on the threads, which they sell. I couldn't find any local, so I used Permatex Assembly Lube. They had a great feel while tightening up. At the end, the stud tops were flush with the nut tops, so I was pretty happy. I don't think the studs were short. I've had some that were, of unknown origin. I think the threads from different manufacturers just needed to be mated.

Later I remembered I had some high pressure grease "Honda Moly" I had used on the driveshaft of my FJR. Oh well.

[grcamna2]

I appreciate that sequential "step by step" idea of torqueing them. Thanks Ron 

[MCRider]

I appreciate that sequential "step by step" idea of torqueing them. Thanks Ron 

YW.

No real guidance on the loosening cycle. I just reversed the pattern. broke them loose on the first pass, spun them off on the second pass.

On each tightening sequence I snugged up the 6 - 6mm bolts as well, never loosening them.

[MCRider]

Just came in from an unscheduled shop time. After an appropriate nap, I fired up the IF heaters, love those things and sat down with the valve train and the Colts game.

Both turned out pretty good it seems. Reattached the sprocket paying close attention to its position v the slots and TDC.  Reassembled the rockers. Futzed around with the cam chain tensioner which was operating in my hand, but not on the bike. Not sure why that was, but seem to have corrected it.

Took first reading and it seems to be correct v the WEBcam instructions. Put the cover on, and am going to sleep.

[MCRider]

Tree limbs slamming on the metal doors, wind driven rain blowing in underneath. Tornados north of here. We had a little weather.

Had a nice phone call from MRieck. He told me to calm down. The big blue Moroso Degree wheel has two scales on it. You have to pick and choose which one is appropriate. Something about using it for cars too, I think  Duh.  So I held the RC Engineering 7" wheel up to the giant Moroso wheel. The RC wheel only has one scale on it That made that part clear.

But after 6 attempts we weren't getting consistent results. So time to do some other little things, take a breath and come back at it.

Never hurts to throw some money at it, so I ordered a new dial indicator, mine is at least 35 years old and was kinda crotchety to work with.

Hope to spend some quiet hours with it during the week. Then wrap up the engine. Put the pipes and carbs on and start it.

Film at 11.

[brandEn]

I am curious what was confusing you on the big Moroso wheel? It took me a lot of revolutions to figure it out on my build too.

[Tintop]

I am curious what was confusing you on the big Moroso wheel? It took me a lot of revolutions to figure it out on my build too.

+1 inquiring minds would like  to know.

[MCRider]

I am curious what was confusing you on the big Moroso wheel? It took me a lot of revolutions to figure it out on my build too.

+1 inquiring minds would like  to know.

Well, the RC wheel had one scale. Starting from TDC as you rotate the wheel, the graduations go from 0° to 90° to 0 to 90. Making a total of 360°.

The Moroso has a white scale, really big so us old guys can see it from across the engine. It went from 0 to 180 and back down to 0 for a total of 360°. So when I was looking for a double digit number, the white scale had a triple digit number, where a dbl should be.

In black lettering, MUCH smaller, I literally didn't see it first attempt. Lighting was too dim, was a second scale which mimicked the RC scale where it needed to. So Mike said use that one when the white one wouldn't work. So you actually use the White AND Black scale depending on which one was Right for that reading. Weird.

Aside, Mike said in the old NASCAR days pre-computer, the NASCAR guys used degree wheels that were several feet in diameter. High resolution. The Moroso wheel gave enough resolution that I am comfortable calling it a 1/2° degree when its between scribe marks.

[Tintop]

Thanks...took another look at the picture of the wheel you posted, can just make out the black numbers (when your looking for them).  Makes sense now.