Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[mrbreeze]

I call BULLSH!T..................prove it!!!!!!

Man!!!!!...............I sure git pissy when I hadda few!! ............carry on

[MCRider]

Thanks Terry; I just go with what I'm told, but I miss the mirror shiny polished ports. Whatever i buy (bought) is better than i could do myself.  Guess one could still polish the exhausts?   

Lucky, draggin up a 2008 post? That tells me there is value in the whole thread. It's a good time killer anyway. Somewhere in this thread there is a discussion on just about everything CB750 related.

Thanks for the laugh Breeze, I know.

[Raef]

Thanks Terry; I just go with what I'm told, but I miss the mirror shiny polished ports. Whatever i buy (bought) is better than i could do myself.  Guess one could still polish the exhausts?   

Lucky, draggin up a 2008 post? That tells me there is value in the whole thread. It's a good time killer anyway. Somewhere in this thread there is a discussion on just about everything CB750 related.

Thanks for the laugh Breeze, I know.

I don't even know about the exhaust side Ron, I was taught and I'm not saying it was right, to stop tooling with the cutters and fore go the sanding and polishing devices. The irregular surface reduces surface tension and actually promotes better flow.

 but you know what they say about opinions;

"there like butt holes, everyone has one and most stink"

[MCRider]

yeah, I was just talking. I wouldn't put the effort in. And I believe you are right from the concensus I've heard.

 Its just that I've seen them polished before and they are so purdy. 

[Raef]

prudy...maybe a set for bookends or a centerpiece on the coffee table

[Danno]

polishing the valve itself is actually a good thing to do I am not sure about the port I was always taught to polish the exhaust side for the same reason as polishing the valve itself but someone with a flow meter would know better but from an engineering stand point less friction on the way out means less heat absorbtion but that does not necessarily mean better flow

[Terry in Australia]

I call BULLSH!T..................prove it!!!!!!

Goddam alcoholic!

[mystic_1]

I'm of the opinion that the ports deserve at least a little attention during a rebuild, often the factory didn't do a great job of cleaning up casting flaws etc when the heads were manufactured.  Some people have discovered quite a bit of casting flash in their ports.

mystic_1

[mrbreeze]

I call BULLSH!T..................prove it!!!!!!

Goddam alcoholic!

I AM NOT!!!!.................(those guys go to meetings!!!)

[Terry in Australia]

I call BULLSH!T..................prove it!!!!!!

Goddam alcoholic!

I AM NOT!!!!.................(those guys go to meetings!!!)

Ha ha, that's right Fred, but if they held those meetings at my favorite pub, I'd go to all of them! Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

Thank Goodness!  I got the new Goodridge SS lines w/chrome fittings installed, seemingly leakfree. i used their gold colored crush washers which is a nice detail. I reinstalled the original to me Master Cylinder which I had soda blasted and installed a rebuild kit on. Then bleeding the brakes took a while, including removing the right caliper and raising it to clear the over the femder line air. But they are firm now and... the pucks retract!  Yay! The right side caliper its actually visible, perfect operation. The left side caliper is not as slick. But it does release. At least I know its alignment and not the lines or the MC.

And we can move on. For Sunday i hope to make a fell swoop of the left side. Install the rotor, alternator, starter, gearbox cover, and the cam cover. The chain will need to go on so we can stand on the brake to get enough torque on the rotor bolt.

Does anyone know how much torque that bolt at the end of the cam should have? Haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, likely a nominal amount?

[HondaMan]

Thank Goodness!  I got the new Goodridge SS lines w/chrome fittings installed, seemingly leakfree. i used their gold colored crush washers which is a nice detail. I reinstalled the original to me Master Cylinder which I had soda blasted and installed a rebuild kit on. Then bleeding the brakes took a while, including removing the right caliper and raising it to clear the over the femder line air. But they are firm now and... the pucks retract!  Yay! The right side caliper its actually visible, perfect operation. The left side caliper is not as slick. But it does release. At least I know its alignment and not the lines or the MC.

And we can move on. For Sunday i hope to make a fell swoop of the left side. Install the rotor, alternator, starter, gearbox cover, and the cam cover. The chain will need to go on so we can stand on the brake to get enough torque on the rotor bolt.

Does anyone know how much torque that bolt at the end of the cam should have? Haven't seen it mentioned anywhere, likely a nominal amount?

I usually torque it down like a 6mm bolt, about 100 in-lbs., with a drop of Blue Loctite. Overkill, for sure, but it does hold the whole alignment on non-Honda cams (Honda cams have shoulders on BOTH ends, aftermarket ones don't seem to...).

[MCRider]

Thanks, will do. It is a WebCam.

[MCRider]

Good morning, shop time not over yet as I'll get to work this aftrnoon while watching the Colts.

Brakes working good enough, I'll tweak the alignment of the left caliper later. View from the front hoses are unseen.

On to the starter. We had the remnants of 3 starters on the breakdown table, we cleansed and sorted the best parts.
First time we/ve seen the top of the table in quite a while

My rotor was lightened seriously, note the chanfers and taper of the center.


By removing nearly all of the inside flange, the starter clutch is nearly unsupported. Stock rotor on left. Note the bulgeouts in the old clutch. It never failed to spin the old engine, but would it someday?

One of the clutches from the parts bike looks cherry, and with new springs and rollers should be fine.



Going back out to make more headway.

[MCRider]

Oh man, poor Colts!

Cut the new chain. 102 links on an 18 front 48 rear puts the wheel at about the midpoint of the adjusters. I did the math and with the low profile 17" wheel/tire vs the stock 18", the effective gear ratio is a tick off of my favorite 17/48.  Just right. Using am ORing chain with a clip type link. Two spacers were supplied to put in the link before mashing the side plate on. They prevent you from squeezing the side plate too far into the Orings. Just want to go far enough to expose the grooves for the link. Tip: Use a 6mm nut between the pins first, and mash with vice grips.



Tap on the jaw of the pliar to get the plate to move a little more, alternate the nut back and forth on the pins to keep from binding the movement of the sideplate.
End up with clip seated.

I know this is basic for a lot you folk, but others may enjoy the pictures. 
Rotors on, starters in cam chain tensioners on, chain is on, clutch is next.

[mrbreeze]

Lookin' good Ron....you're heading for the finish line now..........AWESOME!!!!.........bet you can't wait either!!!! Sorry bout your Colts...........I did pick them though. Kerry Collins isn't that bad of a quarterback but he's new to the team so it will take some time for him to adjust.

[wannabridin]

looking good Ron!  a couple questions:

where did you get that breakdown table?  (and how the hell is it so scratch/ding free???  )

how much weight do you think you shaved off your rotor and who did it??  do you think you'll see a noticeable loss in power generation??

hurry up and get that motor runnin!!

[MCRider]

looking good Ron!  a couple questions:

where did you get that breakdown table?  (and how the hell is it so scratch/ding free???  )

how much weight do you think you shaved off your rotor and who did it??  do you think you'll see a noticeable loss in power generation??

hurry up and get that motor runnin!!

Table- its a Handy
http://www.handyindustries.com/products/deluxe-tear-down-table
scratch resistnat powder coat
I had the rotor done back in 1980. At that time i used APE, Action 4s and Yoshimura East. Only APE survives, but i don't know who did it.

I knew at one time, maybe 3 lbs. Its obviously about as light as can be. I did it for my roadracer at the time. But then used it on Phaedrus I.  No need to go that light for a streetbike. A late model stock rotor is lighter from Honda. If you have one of the early rotors with the big flange as in the picture, take the flange off at least. Lighter makes it rev quick for sure, but it makes the shifting more notchy and throttle response like rolloff is real touchy. Holding a steady throttle like in slow traffic is hard. A little weight not a bad thing.

But i like it light.  There is NO loss in elecrtical output. The part that works with the stator is still intact. I rode that bike like a madman, electric start always, electric vest when it was cold. 100w headlight. Stop and go traffic jams were the only slight problem, but that's true with amm CBs. I had/have the old style headlight switch that would kill the "lights always on" mode.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Ron, as always, looking good mate, and thanks for posting those pics of the lightened rotor. I was trying to summon up the courage to do one myself, but now I've seen the comparative pics, I can see the value in doing it, so that's on my list, once I work out how to chuck a rotor in my lathe. Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

G'Day Ron, as always, looking good mate, and thanks for posting those pics of the lightened rotor. I was trying to summon up the courage to do one myself, but now I've seen the comparative pics, I can see the value in doing it, so that's on my list, once I work out how to chuck a rotor in my lathe. Cheers, Terry.

You're welcome. i actually have one of the in between rotors, stock on the later CBs. Its lighter than that millstone in the pic, but not as radical as the lightened one. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow. You may like it better.

[MorePDX]

Thanks for showing your method for getting the link on to your chain!  I've been dreading putting mine back on!

[MCRider]

Thanks for showing your method for getting the link on to your chain!  I've been dreading putting mine back on!

Your welcome. Just remember to take small bites and alternate the position. Squeeze the vice-grip, then back off, tighten it 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and squeeze again. Tapping the jaw with a hammer helps.

I didn't even think of freezing the link and heating the side plate. Of course that might shorten the pin, then you've got that problem.

If your chain comes with those spacers, I had to remove one at the very end of the process to get that final bit of groove exposed so the clip would fit freely.

Piece of cake.   

[Terry in Australia]

I'd just be happy with a chain with a clip link Ron, my RK super-dooper X Ring Heavy Duty 530 chain requires that the joining link be rivetted, which is a pain in the arse, even if you've got the tool! Cheers, Terry. 

[MCRider]

Good day in the shop after a geat day on the road. The 2nd Annual SOHC Fall Ride Hoosier style. I did 452 miles, only 130 on Interstate, saw lots of interesting places I'd never been too or not in a long time. Beautiful day, Ohio River was shimmering in the sun.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=93497.msg1066575#msg1066575
No CBs this year, and me and IndyFour were only forum members, (love his VFR with Yoshi Pipe!) but 3 new friends were along at Indy's invite. I'll be updating that thread a tad more soon.

Today, we got the clutch in finally, torqued the rotor and cam bolt, and got all the sidecovers on, not mocked up. So the silly question will be: Button Heads: (just the 3 on the clutch cover and the 2 on the points cover)

Or Allen's:


I thought i had a late model rotor to show Terry. Instead it was this one which someone went Medieval on. No flange left at all to surround the starter clutch (maybe it was kick only) and look at all the holes drilled in the periphery, on both sides.



Back to the clutch for a moment. It takes a 4 prong wrench for the special nut. Cheap T handles are sold for this, not worth having see how they splay? Buy the black ones which are beefier and hardened.

Went to putting the coils on, electrics are next.

In another thread we were talking about alternative tanks for the CB750. I mentioned the CL450, I have plans to try and make one work on my next project. But we didn't know if it would fit over the coils. Seems it will so for the purpose of that thread, I took this picture.

Coil wires from Phaedrus I clean up pretty well. Clean on left, dirty on right.


Don't have all the screws in yet, but jere's the engine covered up, finally.

[Tintop]

re the Allen's I'd vote for the regulars, as that is what you used around those areas.  Interesting how many Honda tanks fit on different frames with little modification.  It looks like only the elecritics to go MCRider, of course at the speed of this build, I may be collecting Old Age Security before thats finished.