Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

I only see 40 pages

Just opened #81. 

[Really?]

Yup, I see page 41 now. 

[HonderCB]

i thought things were supposed to be bigger in Texas?

[Really?]

They are.  I am twice as long as you. 

Seriously though, my page is twice as long.  Therefore, I see half the amount of pages that you do.  It is setting that you can change.

[HonderCB]

your page size is bigger, but our page number is bigger

it would be nice to have less pages i suppose

[MCRider]

So we wrestled it up on the C stand to see what the clearance between the bottom of the tire really is. Seems to be about 2.5". Looking at a bike like terry's in the BOTY thread, his rear tire seems to be stock and appears to be about .5" off the ground. Anybody got a good measurement of the clearance on a stocker?
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=98000.0

That's the difference between a /70-17 and the stock /90-18.

So if I'm really 2" closer, that's a big reason why my pipe looks like s side stand (per Terry  ). Though even with some height i don't like where the muffler ends up. It may be in for a surgeons knife later on.

Gives me room for a longer shock, which would be nice anyway. Aggressive riding with gear tends to bottom out the stockers.



Got my MotionPro revised cables. Maybe install them tonight.  Looking for the clip that goes on the front of the fork that holds the speedo and tach cable. Motogrid and Ohio Cycle (vintage parts) don't have them.

[Hinomaru]

Looking for the clip that goes on the front of the fork that holds the speedo and tach cable.

MC, the CB750 K used two different styles of cable holders and the diagram below shows the differences. Sometimes, the devil is in the details...

#19 is the early open loop style (45465-300-000) used on the K0-K2

#20 is the later closed loop style (53226-341-700) used on the K3-K6

#21 is the rubber insert (53225-333-000) for the closed loop style.

Click image for a larger view:

[MCRider]

I would have had the open loop style. But the closed loop style is certainly usable it seems. Would preclude the cable popping out, probably the reason for the change.

And the rubber insert would keep my new cable from chafing. I'll look up those numbers for availability, thanks!

[MCRider]

Hinomaru: none of those numbers are available from motogrid or Ohio Cycle (vintage). Of course OC advertises 1959 to 1969, so he only has stuff for the 69 CB750, but you never know can't hurt to check.  Nothing at ebay either.

I probably have these items in the bottom of a dingy box somewhere. I'll be watching for them, but moving on.

The upgrade occurred mid-K2, after 206xxxx. Mine is 203xxxx, so i would have the open clip.  I can see one advantage of the open clip, with the closed clip, you would have to remove the pinchbolt to remove an instrument cable!

[Doctor_D]

Gives me room for a longer shock, which would be nice anyway. Aggressive riding with gear tends to bottom out the stockers.

With longer shocks, one needs to be aware of potential swingarm/chain interference issues.  The good news is that there are no problems with a 14.5" shock on my bike.

A moderately priced option for a longer shock is the Progressive 12-series shock made for the cb900f/cbx. http://www.z1enterprises.com/Progressive-Suspension-Rear-Shocks-12-Series-14--121205B-1974.aspx

Finally, I agree that a little more upward angle on that muffler would look a bit better.  Cutting a pie-shaped wedge out of the top of the pipe and re-welding it  might give you a more aggresive sweep.

[Hinomaru]

MC, it’s too bad those part numbers are discontinued.
 
The David Silver Spares website is showing that the two different guides and rubber insert are discontinued also.
 
Have you checked the Motogrid part number cross reference to see which other Honda models used those guides? This could be helpful in locating a used one.
 
I would imagine that a SOHC/4 member has one to spare and you can post a request in the parts wanted forum.
 
If you can’t find a used one, try Terry Williams over at Western Hills Honda (Cincinnati, OH) 513-662-7759. He may not have one in stock, so ask him to check his computer for the dealer parts locator. It will show him which Honda dealers (if any) still have the part in stock and then you can order direct from that dealer. Probably a last resort move, but worth a shot if all else fails.

Is fabricating a trick/custom made cable guide an option for you?


   

[grcamna2]

One thing to keep in mind with photos is todays cameras create very large files.  If you save these in Photobucket, and then post them, it will use up your allowed band width very quickly.  I resize mine before saving to PB.  Generally this just means changing the largest dimension - e.g. 4000 pixels down to 2000.

Tintop,
     How do you "resize" them? do you do it before downloading them from your camera or afterwards?...somehow within your computer ? I have to look a bit more at my instruction book for my Nikon coolpix L20 and see if I can do that...I have it set for photos to the highest 10 mgpx, is that a good way? I would hope if I can resize in the camera first, maybe I can upload them to the forum directly ??

   Hey guys, thanks for assisting me on this "pain"; I think once I "get it".....it will be a bit easier...hopefully.

[MCRider]

grc: I think resizing is unnecessary. I was doing that in the first few pages of the build thread till i discovered it wasn't necessary.  If you like the size mine are that is. I simply plug my camera into the cord. Go to Photobucket, hit download (or "upload" whatever the buitton says.) navigate to the the camera, (after the first time or two, I don't have to navigate anymore, photobucket opens the camera/folder on the first click) finish,. Then click on the picture i want, a menu drops down, select the last item, copy, paste in the post. Voila, picture.

There are a few interim steps where you can name the photos, or select the destination folder if you have more than one in photobucket as i now have. Like Phaedrus; Parties; Rides; etc.  All pretty obvious even to a dummie like me.

never hit any sort of capacity barriers.

I'm using a dinosaur camera Olympus D360L from turn of the century, 2000. I used to have a smart card that would only hold about 36 pictures. The one I have now hold several hundred. So maybe newer cameras require resizing.

Curious to hear what TinTop says.

[MCRider]

Gives me room for a longer shock, which would be nice anyway. Aggressive riding with gear tends to bottom out the stockers.

With longer shocks, one needs to be aware of potential swingarm/chain interference issues.  The good news is that there are no problems with a 14.5" shock on my bike.

A moderately priced option for a longer shock is the Progressive 12-series shock made for the cb900f/cbx. http://www.z1enterprises.com/Progressive-Suspension-Rear-Shocks-12-Series-14--121205B-1974.aspx

Finally, I agree that a little more upward angle on that muffler would look a bit better.  Cutting a pie-shaped wedge out of the top of the pipe and re-welding it  might give you a more aggresive sweep.

Thanks. I would always check clearances. The shocks on it now are period S&W @12 7/8 (stock?) I have some S$W Street Strokers at 13.5. That or 14 should do a trick. The Progressive units could work nicely.

Notching the muffler is what i had in mind. Exactly as you mentioned. my machinist could do it in a heartbeat. Would require some refinishing. Ceramic powdercoat would be less than $100.

[Tintop]

One thing to keep in mind with photos is todays cameras create very large files.  If you save these in Photobucket, and then post them, it will use up your allowed band width very quickly.  I resize mine before saving to PB.  Generally this just means changing the largest dimension - e.g. 4000 pixels down to 2000.

Tintop,
     How do you "resize" them? do you do it before downloading them from your camera or afterwards?...somehow within your computer ? I have to look a bit more at my instruction book for my Nikon coolpix L20 and see if I can do that...I have it set for photos to the highest 10 mgpx, is that a good way? I would hope if I can resize in the camera first, maybe I can upload them to the forum directly ??

   Hey guys, thanks for assisting me on this "pain"; I think once I "get it".....it will be a bit easier...hopefully.

I can change the resolution in the camera, but prefer to use the highest setting to get the most detail.  I down load them to a file, and then use a program called Photofile that lets me resize & save.  Generally all I do is cut the largest size (pixel height or width) in 1/2 (e.g. from 4000 down to 2000).  The problem isn't storing large photos on Photobucket, its the bandwidth thats used when you 'attach' them to something like a build thread.

Bikes looking great MCR.  Have to agree though that the pipe looks low.  Anyway it can be tucked in tighter to the wheel, that would increase cornering clearence somewhat.

[grcamna2]

Tintop,
            I have HP image zone or Snapfish...will either of those work for the resizing ?

[RAFster122s]

grcamna2, could you take your photo questions to PMs or create a thread on this subject? Not that I'm trying to suppress your attempts to gain knowledge, just asking for not to be done in Ron's thread unless Ron OKs it.

[MCRider]

grcamna2, could you take your photo questions to PMs or create a thread on this subject? Not that I'm trying to suppress your attempts to gain knowledge, just asking for not to be done in Ron's thread unless Ron OKs it.

Thanks Rafster.Basically I'm OK with the occasional off-topic tangent. Anything to keep the thread alive.

I'm semi-proud that this thread contains virtually every topic that a standard style custom with a hot engine could. I'm hoping that this is printable for an archive.

But, grcamna2 may be better served by starting a thread on posting pictures in a general forum, maybe the "open topic" forum. He'll get many more people to contribute ideas and experiences. There are a couple as I remember sourcing them when i was learning how. But I'm also OK with members starting new threads on old topics, as the old is always new to someone and fresher ideas will arise.

[Tintop]

grcamna2, could you take your photo questions to PMs or create a thread on this subject? Not that I'm trying to suppress your attempts to gain knowledge, just asking for not to be done in Ron's thread unless Ron OKs it.

It gone to PM's, apologies for the highjack MCR.

[grcamna2]

Bought some Ti Valve Spring retainers from APE. Best price i could find. (Didn't look too hard)

Several back and forth emails with the APE sales team. Very good responses and friendly to my eccentric questions.

Bought a complete head assy on eBay and paid WAY too much based on current eBay sales. Oh well got what i wanted. A cam to be used as a core, and a head for the next project.

Bought some "Viton" best on the planet valve stem seals off eBay. Its on the Internet so it must be true.

Took some stuff to IndyPowderCoating.com, Cb77 crankcases (I wanted to see how good their degreasing, bead blasting and cleanup services are), They said they often powder coat engines for a durable (expensive? finish)  I left the Finned Exhaust Collars to be cleaned and ceramic coated.
Turns Out Vance and Hines in Brownsburg (just down the road, part of the Indy Racing compex) uses IPC for their Harley Exhaust Pipes line. Nice job!  V&H are moving their CA operations to Brownsburg as well.
Just happened to have a CB750 frame sitting on the reception area floor... to the right and back about 10 ft are my CB77 cases...

Traditional Paint Room

Showroom


Bought nearly a complete bottom end on eBay for $25! In Knox Indiana which is just 45 miles down the road...OOPS...its the other Knox IN which is over 100 miles away. Rats that blows this weekend's work time.

Ron,
        That sure is a Very nice shop you have there !

[MCRider]

Crap man! That's not my shop. That's Indy Powder Coating.

I wish, though my shop is very nice for my purposes.

[grcamna2]

OH !....sorry. I guess I'm dreaming kind of big.

[MCRider]

SNIP

Is fabricating a trick/custom made cable guide an option for you?
 

How about some chrome cable ties? 

[Tintop]

 

[MCRider]

OH !....sorry. I guess I'm dreaming kind of big.

A brief side trip: My shop: Part of my mid-life crisis, along with my FJR. Built in 03, 14' x 26':  R24 in the ceiling, R9 in the cinder block walls, 60amp service, rollup doors, etc:




It was originally the 2 car garage on the left. Removed the right slope roof and replaced it to cover the new third bay shop. Builder did a pretty good job.