I've adopted the moniker from Ecosse prior post: Phaedrus is a "Super Standard". For all appearances it is a standard, what the motorcycles mags used to call a UJM: universal Japanese motorcycle. But every single part has been breathed on, some rather heavily. I like it.
This week was productive, though not so much visibly. I ground some more on the tank and it fits better with the unground tank rubbers. I'll have the machinist tack weld some straps on the mounts I have hacked up and it will be perfect.
I got the front wheel out of storage (2.5 x 17 Excel with SS spokes) and set the front fender (Kaw ZL1000) on it for the first time. The wheel is a 17" and the fender an 18" but i think it will look fine. That tire has NO tread on it so a fresh one will fill the fender more.
110 wide fits fine, maybe a 120 will later. There have been some pictures posted by bigfootball of his cool bike "Excess" with a Telefix fork brace on it. I think I'll get that, which was built for a 19" wheel. There should be plenty of space below it to hang the fender, so I won't need to figure out how to mount it to the fork legs.
Here's the adjusted list for the machine shop:
Gas Tank:
1. Tack weld the straps on top of front mounts.
Frame:
1 Straighten Left Front Engine Guard. Fill in slot and re-drill at end of slot for 10mm motor mount.
2 Weld triangle motor mount onto right front engine guard. Fill in upper mount slot, grind, and re-drill at end of slot based on the hole in the triangle motor mount for 10mm.
3 Smooth and Fill all welds marked by Orange Paint, plus any not marked. Remove steering stem to fill the gusset at the top of steering neck.
4 Left Engine Guard center mount. Remove tab on top, radius. Weld tab on bottom of frame rail for engine guard to bolt to.
5 Steering Damper Bracket: A. Raise so angle of damper is same as angle of lower tree. B. Move back so lower tree hits the original “lock to lock” steering stop points.
6 Rear Footpegs: Object: Footpegs mounted at same angle as adjacent frame tube. (Swept back about 45 degrees.) Idea: Use threaded bolt in mounting lug. Thread in to lug to pivot bolt hole. Cut head off bolt, insert in hole in frame, and weld. (Peg, lug, and bolt in box.)
7 Muffler Hanger: Weld tab on bottom side of right side footpeg rail. Ten mm hole with threads on backside? Or use a through bolt and nut.
8 Fill and smooth backside of right front motor mounts.
9 Oil Cooler: Weld mounting strap across front of frame as indicated with template. Drill mounting holes. (Radiator in box).
10 Front Rail Gussets: Weld tabs to frame with threaded backsides per template. Cut triangles gussets to bolt to tabs and removable frame rails. (Templates in box).
11 Remove horn bracket. Grind smooth.
12 Straighten fork stop.
Swing arm:
1 Remove tabs on left top. Smooth.
2 Fill and smooth old zerk fitting holes.
3 Reposition brake stay mount. Remove and grind down old one, re-weld new one.
4 Cut down rear chain guard mount. Leave enough to use as a mount, similar to the front mount.
Marked the frame with tags and paint for machinist:
and the swingarm
I'll order main bearing shells this week. Assemble fork legs probably next on list. I've got to make a cleaning brush to run through the tubes i bought from Franks years ago. They have rusted on the inside.
I figure a rotary wire brush welded to a long rod I can chuck up in a drill and run through the tube.
