Topic: Oil change ???

[Wayne Meuir]

I just changed the oil in my F3 because it has not been run since 2003 and I am trying to get it going.  I NEVER change the engine oil in any of my 2 strokes and my Concours does not have an oil tank, so this is new to me.

I drained the crankcase and then drained the oil tank.  Replaced the plugs and proceeded to put 3.5L of oil in the oil tank per the Clymer manual.  Problem is, when I got 2L in it, the tank is almost full and it does not seem to be running into the crankcase as I thought it would.  Does the engine have to be running so the oil pump is circulating the oil before I can finish putting in the other 1.5L?

Also, I damn near did not get the oil filter bolt to come out.  I used a 6 point socket and had to put and 2 ft cheater to break it loose.  The head of the bolt is so screwed up I am going to replace the entire bolt.  Is this a common problem?  Should I use anti-sieze on the threads and/or the o-ring?

Wayne

[Bodi]

Put anti-seize on the head end of the bolt between the little O-ring and the head, including the bottom of  the head. The rest of the bolt is in oil and doesn't seize. Cleaning that part of the bolt and the inside of the hole it goes through will help too. You can get replacement bolts (or used to be able to...) with a 14 or 17mm hex.
The oil should just go in the tank. Not sure why it's full with less than a fill? The oil pump takes oil from the tank to oil the engine from whence it drips into the sump, the oil pump is also contimuously pumping any oil in the sump back to the tank - so the sump "should" be pretty dry with all the oil in the tank and hoses. Try running the engine for a few minutes and rechecking the tank level, it may drop quite a bit as the lines and filter fill up.

[Wayne Meuir]

Bodi, thanks, I can't start the engine yet. I just rebuilt the carbs and I am waiting on the accelerator pump that I ordered, so I can't put the carb rack back on yet.  I ordered one of the aftermarket oil filter bolts with a 17mm head. The one I screwed up was 12mm and I damn near rounded it off before I got it out.  Turns out the F model bolt is different that the K model and the F oil filter has a two piece cover housing. It still uses the same filter as the K though.

Wayne

[Steve F]

After you put in the oil, you should start it and let it run for a minute or so.  Stop the engine, and immediately check the level, and add more to bring the level up to the mark.  Do this while on the center stand so the oil remaining in the engine isn't pooling to the left.  Also, if the bike has been sitting for a couple of days, you may notice the oil level has dropped a bit.  Don't add any more until you start the engine as described above, and check the level.  Sometimes, the check valve on the oil pump will leak a bit, and oil will fill up the crankcase. You may think it's low, but after the pump gets the oil back in the tank where it belongs, you should be OK.

[TwoTired]

You need the engine to run to fill the oil filter housing.

[Wayne Meuir]

Yea, I knew I had to start it to fill up the oil filter, but that should only hold a pint or so and I was just expecting the oil to flow from the tank to some pre determined level in the crankcase so that I could put 3.5L in the tank (minus the amount the filter would hold.) and that is exactly what the manual says to do, so I got a little concerned as to why that was not happening.

While I am waiting on parts, I took all the calipers apart and cleaned them up and then bled the brakes. The pistons had some very minor pitting, but I am going to see if they will hold up, if not, it ain't much trouble to take them apart again. Lubed all the cables and discovered the plastic throttle tube is broken where the cable attaches to it so now I gotta get a new one.

Wayne

[TwoTired]

The 750 engine is a dry sump system.  There is an anti-drainback valve to keep the oil in the tank when the oil pumps (there are two) aren't spinning.

Cheers,