Author Topic: Total Rebuild Thread (Read 22635 times)

bunghole · « **Reply #50 on:** June 30, 2008, 09:27:50 PM »

I'm breaking out the .22 tomorrow. Laws be damned!

754 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 01, 2008, 07:05:51 AM »

Di you have a good sleep with the dog??

bert96 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 01, 2008, 08:51:33 AM »

Quote from: bunghole on June 26, 2008, 10:12:01 PM

I bought a tank that was advertised on "super crappy ripoff bunch of dimwits-bay" as a '73. The seller advertised it as having no dents...guess what...dents! Wheee! They also stopped communicating once I called them on it. It is possible that it happened in transit, but it was packed pretty well.

Here it is:

For whatever reason, it looks like a PO maybe altered the petcock mount and now I have a tank with a male threaded 3/4" spigot that seems to be non-standard. Let me know if I'm wrong.

Anyhow, I like the tank and filler cap, so I'm going to go with it. I really like "knee indents" in tanks, so I had a few beers in me and decided to take a mallet to the tank.

Here is how it turned out. It will need bondo, but I think that's inevitable.

Is there a thread on how to do "knee indents",i really like the looks!!!

JAG · « **Reply #53 on:** July 01, 2008, 12:27:31 PM »

Bert96,

Check back a few pages, there's a link..

I did a write up about it a few months ago, hope that helps.

bunghole · « **Reply #54 on:** July 01, 2008, 06:10:24 PM »

I've got my cases in to be soda blasted. Will pick them up tomorrow AM. In the meantime, I decided to clean the oil pump and just buggered the hell out of the pickup screen. Believe me, I tried to be gentle, but it wasn't budging. Before I went mental on it, I went online the ordered one off of Ebay, then I went out and went to town with some pliers. While I was on a destruction spree, I messed up the gasket:

You can't really see in the picture, but the gasket is really thin and brittle and when I was handling the pump body, it peeled up a bit and cracked. How critical is this gasket? Should I leave it as is?

I also noticed some gouges on some of the impeller fins:

Should I worry about it?

I guess the nice thing about screwing up the oil pump is that it can be replaced after the engine is buttoned up and back in the frame. Silver lining and all!

Thanks!

JAG · « **Reply #55 on:** July 01, 2008, 08:52:18 PM »

Quote from: bunghole on July 01, 2008, 06:10:24 PM

Should I worry about it?

I guess the nice thing about screwing up the oil pump is that it can be replaced after the engine is buttoned up and back in the frame. Silver lining and all!

Thanks!

That one doesn't look to bad. Does the rest look about the same? If so, I wouldn't worry about it to much, but when you do button her back up submerge it in oil and make sure it is full before you put it back on so that it won't make them worse.

I took an oil pump out that I had before and it looked a little worse than that and still did it's jobby job.

I'm going to have to look into this soda blasting.. Seems like the way to go. Don't forget before and after pictures!!!

bunghole · « **Reply #56 on:** July 01, 2008, 09:07:17 PM »

I had started out looking for someone to blast (however) my cases and a guy that I used for some machine work said that I should only soda blast as any other media could get embedded in the aluminum. I had heard good things about soda blasting before, so I decided to go that route.

rhos1355 · « **Reply #57 on:** July 02, 2008, 12:39:48 AM »

Bunghole, I might be talking out of my backside here but the rotor should be changed, the only reason I'm saying this is 'cos in heavier duty pumps if the rotor is gouged or damaged it starts to "cavitate" which means it aerates (creates air bubbles) the liquid you're pumping which reduces the efficiency of the pump itself. As regards gaskets, once I've split the part I replace the gasket no matter what condition it's in. Peace of mind.

bunghole · « **Reply #58 on:** July 02, 2008, 08:24:21 PM »

Rhos,

You're probably right, but I checked the prices and its insane, so unless I can find a secondhand pump on Ebay, I'll probably risk it and slap an oil pressure gauge on her and monitor that.

So I picked up the soda blasted cases this AM. They look much cleaner:

So now I have bare (or mostly bare) aluminum cases. I've been pestering the forum for an answer on what I have to do to them before I paint them. Do they need to be etched? Should I use an etching primer? Does anyone make a high heat etching primer that will work with Duplicolor Engine Enamel?

If anyone knows, I would love to hear from you.

The cases still have a significant amount of soda residue on them. I am soooo tempted to put them in the dishwasher when my wife isn't around. I really think it would do a good first pass at cleaning the residue out. Then I would go over them with solvent and compressed air until I felt they were spot free. I could also use the pressure washer that I borrowed from a friend to clean my concrete patio. Anyone have any thoughts on why I shouldn't get these spot-free with Cascade?

I also received my tin elecroplating kit from Eastwood today. I had to try it out. Here is the sequence:

I took a crusty hose clamp off one of the carb connectors (the right on in this pic):

Here it is by itself with its screw:

I cleaned it pretty well using a brass brush and carb cleaner. Then washed it in some dish detergent and water:

Fizzy fizzy:

Fresh from the magic electrolytic bath:

After some polishing:

It came out pretty nice, but if I had spent more time on prep and final polishing, it would look really nice.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #59 on:** July 02, 2008, 08:45:12 PM »

Try something else aluminum in the dishwasher with Cascade (trisodium phosphate) first and see what it looks like! Don't think you'll like the outcome. Going to take on a dark color. Soda (baking soda?) should be water soluble or a little acidity (vinegar)_should neutralize/dissolve it. Or just drop by the car wash and pressure wash it using their detergent solution.

Your wife will appreciate this approach.

754 · « **Reply #60 on:** July 02, 2008, 08:50:39 PM »

That IS a GOOD used oil pump...

So glad I splurged and spent 78.00 for an NOS one

way back (not selling it)

bunghole · « **Reply #61 on:** July 02, 2008, 09:02:03 PM »

Quote from: 754 on July 02, 2008, 08:50:39 PM

That IS a GOOD used oil pump...

So glad I splurged and spent 78.00 for an NOS one way back (not selling it)

I'll pay you $79 bucks. That's a pretty good return percentage wise. You'd be losing money if you didn't sell it to me. OK $80 and that's my last offer!

JAG · « **Reply #62 on:** July 02, 2008, 09:21:02 PM »

Yeah I figured it to be a good oil pump as well..

I dropped my block and head off today to have blasted with soda as well; the owner of the place told me just to use soap and water and it would come right off. I'd definitely make sure to get all of it before I painted it

As far as painting goes, if the surface is really slick from the blasting, why not use some fine grit sand paper to go over it to roughen up the surface a little bit. Use the air compressor to clean off the particles and then go to town with the painting..

Just my 2 cents worth, I'm sure someone will shoot it down..

Also just got finished painting the lower cases, like you are about to do, using the DE1615 paint. And it has turned out WAY better than I thought it would.. I saw that you were concerned about which paint to use, I tried that one and I'm very pleased..

Hope ya figure it out..

Got any further or the tank???

JAG

bunghole · « **Reply #63 on:** July 02, 2008, 09:34:22 PM »

Hey Jag,

Thanks for the feedback on the paint. I had read that aluminum oxidizes really quickly and that it has to be etched to hold paint. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I guess if I sanded it or gave it a good once over with a brass brush, the paint would have a good tooth to hold on to.

The tank is totally back burnered as I'm trying to keep all the bits from the engine straight.

MUST....NOT.....LOSE.....BITS!!!!!

bunghole · « **Reply #64 on:** July 07, 2008, 10:14:45 PM »

I spent tonight on the crankshaft bearings. This is completely new territory for me, so I could use help and input.

My first step was to try and decipher the chicken scratch on the crankshaft ("chicken make lousy housepet"). Here is what it looked like to me:

"OKAAAAA V44-S4"

On the case, it was easy to read and is "BBBBB"

According to the Clymer, the stock crank bearing should have been all green.

Next step was to measure the journals with a dial caliper (in mm):

1: 35.941
2: 35.992
3: 35.966
4: 35.941
5: 35.941

So for fun, I broke out the mics and measured again:

1: 35.994
2: 36.010 (not likely)
3: 35.989
4: 35.987
5: 35.989

Final step was to use the plasticgauge (clearances in mm). Pics first and then measurements:

Virgin Plasticgauge waiting to be squished:

Squashed!!!:

1: 0.076
2: 0.102
3: 0.152
4: 0.127
5: 0.076

I should note that I didn't install of the crankcase bolts both top and bottom. Most of them, especially near the crank, but not all the little ones. Will that throw off my results?

If not, please divine what I need as far as replacement bearing inserts. Clymer states that max clearance is 0.08 mm, so I according to that I need to replace 2,3, and 4 inserts.

I would also appreciate any feedback on the following bearings:

I know it is hard to diagnose from just images, but please offer any thoughts.

There is some wear that is noticeable (ie I can feel it with my fingernail), and I assume that is an indication that replacement is necessary.

martino1972 · « **Reply #65 on:** July 07, 2008, 10:30:16 PM »

what do the journals on the crank look like??

looking at the pic with all the bearingshells,second from the top on left looks pretty bad,and the third from the top right too..

now i dont know how easily availible and how much they cost,but i would suggest to replace em..

bunghole · « **Reply #66 on:** July 07, 2008, 10:45:52 PM »

Thanks Martino,

The crank journals look OK. Number 2 has a minor scratch that is just noticeable with a finger nail and only on one half of the journal. It is in line with rotation.. I was planning on replacing the bearings as a matter of course. They appear to be available from honda-partsdirect.com and other Honda parts sites, so I'm hoping they will have what I need.

martino1972 · « **Reply #67 on:** July 07, 2008, 11:19:41 PM »

with your method of working and checking every little detail,the bike will be better then when it came out of the factory..

i admire the way you tackle the rebuild..

it might be more $$$ now,but it will pay off at the end..
did you set yourself a budget for the build,or are you just going with whatever it takes..

troppo · « **Reply #68 on:** July 08, 2008, 12:59:44 AM »

G`day bung
If your getting them soda blasted you REALLY need to wash them thoroughly, start with cheap white vinegar and then use soap and water, we had a warranty problem with a bad paint job on a truck at work so the boss (salesman, i`ll say no more) decided to get it soda blasted and then said you dont need to do anything before painting...
The next day the paint came off the body in sheets.....
Soda and paint do not mix, if your going to the trouble to get things done right do everything right.
Cheers
Troppo

bunghole · « **Reply #69 on:** July 08, 2008, 09:03:19 AM »

Quote from: martino1972 on July 07, 2008, 11:19:41 PM

with your method of working and checking every little detail,the bike will be better then when it came out of the factory..

i admire the way you tackle the rebuild..

it might be more $$$ now,but it will pay off at the end..
did you set yourself a budget for the build,or are you just going with whatever it takes..

Thanks Martino. I didn't set a budget and so I don't even want to do the math. I just want a really good and reliable cafe racer that I can ride until either it or me poops out.

bunghole · « **Reply #70 on:** July 08, 2008, 09:13:47 AM »

Quote from: troppo on July 08, 2008, 12:59:44 AM

G`day bung
If your getting them soda blasted you REALLY need to wash them thoroughly, start with cheap white vinegar and then use soap and water, we had a warranty problem with a bad paint job on a truck at work so the boss (salesman, i`ll say no more) decided to get it soda blasted and then said you dont need to do anything before painting...
The next day the paint came off the body in sheets.....
Soda and paint do not mix, if your going to the trouble to get things done right do everything right.
Cheers
Troppo

Thanks Troppo,

I took a plain cool water pressure washer to them last night, but I like the idea of the vinegar as that will probably (maybe) help with the oxidation on the aluminum and help the paint stick a bit better. I might also scotchbrite the cases before painting. Can't hurt.

troppo · « **Reply #71 on:** July 08, 2008, 05:55:15 PM »

Scuffing with scotchbrite is always a good idea mate, especially with ally. You need to use a good etch prime, acid etch is probably best

bunghole · « **Reply #72 on:** July 09, 2008, 09:41:22 PM »

PAINT!!!

I scotchbrited the hell out of the cases using vinegar as a lubricant. Then I cleaned in soapy dawn detergent. Finally, I rinsed very thoroughly and dried with compressed air. I put the cases together and taped off the internals. Two light coats of primer and three coats of color. Here are some pics:

By the way, the engine stand is the key to painting. Made life so much easier.

martino1972 · « **Reply #73 on:** July 09, 2008, 09:44:24 PM »

looking sharp.....nice color...

troppo · « **Reply #74 on:** July 09, 2008, 09:46:54 PM »

Looking good bung, looking good

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Author Topic: Total Rebuild Thread (Read 22635 times)

rhos1355

martino1972

martino1972

troppo

troppo

martino1972

troppo