I'm not quite sure how to "weigh in" on this particular topic.
I think it was Hope who first approached me with this, but I can't figure out a way to field all the questions and sometimes-tech-support that goes with the ignitions and custom ignitions, the Resistor Packs and customs of those, the Swingarm rebuilds of everything from 125 twins to 750s...every single one of them, save a couple of repeat customers on "Basic" ignitions, has been a one-off custom operation. I've done it this way, so far, to prevent problems that can arise with this sort of device. (Not to mention the upcoming LED timing lights, the EFI I'm working on, the 350F Power Booster that's about to be prototyped...it's a long list! I'm also working on the LED taillight system (not just a bulb), halogen lighting for the 350F and 400F, etc.)
Here's an example, and I'm open to any help here, BTW...someone writes me and asks "How much is the Transistorized Ignition, and what options are available?" I've currently reduced that response to this:
"
1. The "Basic" module, a no-frills unit that is 2" x 4" x 0.9" in size, mounts anywhere in the middle of the bike, runs the stock coils. These are $68 right now.
2. The "Dyna capable" unit is the one with fins: it's really made for racers and those who want to run the Dyna or Accel coils directly, without resistors. These are $72 in this "batch" (not really the hot setup for daily riders, though, see "Resistor Pack" below for use with Dyna coils on the street).
3. Optional colored cases: add $15 and your choice of color in red, green, blue, black, gold or silver. These units are also Dyna-capable, because they are larger at 2.5" x 4.75" x 1.1", so they dissipate the extra heat, like the fins on the smaller one.
4. Optional "Security Switch": this has a 3-position lever that locks into the selected position so road potholes don't switch it for you while you ride. The middle position is OFF, and up or down is ON. It was done this way so it can be fumbled in the dark easier, and OFF kills the coils so there's no spark. This option is $15 extra on any model.
5. For larger bikes only, or if you have room for special edgewise mounting, another switch option is the "Points-OFF-Electronic" switch. This one lets you switch between the 3 modes without swapping wires, if you're worried about the unit failing (no one's ever hurt one yet, though...). This unit must be mounted on edge, because the lever does not lock into place: a big pothole shock could switch it to OFF while riding on smaller bikes, especially. This option is $25.
6. The "Resistor Pack" is designed to reduce the peak currents of the low-ohm Dyna (or similar) coils down to something these older bikes can handle better, while still preserving increased spark voltage. If you use this "Pack", you don't need the finned "Dyna-capable" type of unit, as the coil currents are closer to normal. If you order this item, you must specify the terminal type on your Dyna coils: screw or tab." (This combination results in 24 possible Ignition units.) The prices vary up or down a few $ with each shipment of parts, because I'm trying to keep costs to minimums for everyone at SOHC4.
Invariably, this response generates at least 2 more e-mails back & forth, while the rider gets a clearer picture of what's really wanted and/or needed (sometimes not the same things!). Somewhere along the way, I find out where it will be shipped, which varies from $6.40 to $18 in postage. If something special arises, I order parts, and we e-mail some more. Typically, 1 day to 3 weeks later, we figure it out exactly, and I build it, test it thoroughly, and ship it. No one gets disappointed this way (although I did misunderstand someone once who's first language was not English, and we had to ship back & forth again: my fault, the way I see it...).
...and, this is just the Ignitions. Electrics can be like that.
The swingarms are a little more complicated.
I can hardly wait for the day I offer EFI...
(Mine first!)
This just seems complex enough to defy much simplification...
