Author Topic: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY  (Read 3615 times)

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SSRob

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Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« on: July 03, 2008, 03:48:06 PM »
I just purchased a 74 CB550 with 622 miles and I wanted to clean the carbs and fuel system.  Well, half of the carb float bowl screws were stripped.  Of course the spring steel jet holder would push the bowl right of the carb.  I did a little repair and I hope it will help others who have this issue or similar issue.

Started by removing all bowls and tossing the hardware.  Drill all of the 16 holes on the carb side with an 11/64 bit.  Use a 5mm x .80 tap with cutting oil and tap all holes.  Dont worry if your tap doesnt go all the way through, it will work.  Next, drill your 16 float bowl mounting holes with a 13/64 bit to make way for the slightly thicker screws.  Lowes has the hardware which would be (16) 5mm-.80 x 12 socket head cap screws, 1(6) flat washers, and (16) split washers.  Reassemble with new gaskets from Honda kit # 16010-323-315 and your done.  Looks better than factory.

This may help others and keep them from junking the carbs.

Offline BobbyR

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2008, 06:36:48 PM »
Thanks, that is a common problem with these carbs and a lot of us will need that info sooner or later.
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Offline Hush

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2008, 09:55:17 PM »
Just replaced all my bowl crosshead screws with allen key screws, easier to remove and tighten in that cramped area using an allenkey than a stubby screwdriver. ;).
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Offline Cvillechopper

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2009, 08:27:09 AM »
Thanks.  I'm planning on doing this the next time I have to pull the carbs and the exact dimensions really help.
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Offline zeech

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2013, 09:50:47 PM »
Digging this up as it's very useful.

Thanks a ton for this, saved my stripped/leaking carbs. Only took me about an hour, very nice!

Offline Gman

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2013, 12:06:57 AM »
Just replaced all my bowl crosshead screws with allen key screws, easier to remove and tighten in that cramped area using an allenkey than a stubby screwdriver. ;).

Be careful tightening those, though.  The allen keys allow you to apply more torque w/less effort, so you may strip the threads if you crank down.  I stripped one of mine just tightening the stock screw, although I think the PO had already buggered it.

G
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Offline MOONDOGNYC

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2013, 12:09:51 AM »
Nice tip...
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Offline bjatwood

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2013, 06:15:54 PM »
Just "snug" up the screws first. And if the bowls leak at all you still have some "magic" you can use to stop the petrol from leaking... ;)
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bollingball

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2013, 08:33:42 PM »
I would add one thing to the OP use a bottom tap.

Ken

Offline Bootlegger56

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2013, 08:54:15 PM »
Great post.  I swapped out my Phillips head screws on my intake clamps for socket head cap screws too.  I try to use the socket heads where I can since I am not a purist.  I like shopping at Micro Fasteners too.  They have small quantity stainless socket head and truss socket heads in the 3,4,5 mm sizes.  They work great for control screws too.  Also their prices are great!!!
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Offline Bru-tom

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Re: Stripped float bowl screws-repair DIY
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2013, 08:57:39 AM »
yep, exactly what i did mate.

you must try to secure your carbs as much as possible or else the holes might become oval. That leads to a bigger hole and less meat to tap into.

what i did:



I at the time wasnt planning to strip them, but then decided to at a later stage. But if youre not, ensure you seal all the little holes up good and proper! ;)



i had a nice big drill press at my disposal 8)



i did one at a time to try eliminate any swarf (metal bits that are left behind after drilling and/or tapping) getting in where its not supposed to. So i did one, sealed her up and continued to the next...



the screw pictured were just ones to keep the bowls on before i uses SS cap screws. Be sure to use an antiseize on SS into alluminium, i used a zinc one.

the carb bodies are extremely sensitive and the material is super soft, so be careful when using a portable drill to keep both drill and workpiece as still as possible when drilling ;)