Tech Forums > SOHC/4 Bikes
can anyone find 530 conversion FRONT sprockets?
754:
To make it real simple,
On a 77 engine eith stock sprocket shaft, and retainer. I put on a pre 76 front sprocket, (either a stock, or thinner aftermarket), thern used the 77 retainer.
Just make sure the retainer works in same manner as the 77, either the bolt & washer pull it up tight or it does not, hust do it the same..
Had no trouble at all except that I ran a 72 hub, which THEN spaced rearsprocket to one side.. not on issue on a 77/78 bike.
I did not read the link, but am pointing out that the earlier sprockets bolt on..
GammaFlat:
I took some pics of the differences between '77 and pre-'77 for purposes of determining how 530s and 630s fit on them...
The left pic is a '77 - the right pic is a '74 (I think, certainly pre-'77). Note that the '74 looks like a longer shaft but ends up at relatively the same position. The cases are shaped differently.
The following pics are of a '77 engine with a '77 sprocket (630) installed on the left (no bolt and washer) and a 530 sprocket on the right. Note that the shoulder on the shaft and greater width of the 530 sprocket won't allow it to "flush up". I'm not sure if this would be a problem or not. You'd probably want to check your chain alignment in this case.
The following are pics of a pre-'77 engine with both sprockets on - 630 on the left and 530 on the right.
HondaMan:
Great pix, GF!
About the shoulder of the 530 Honda sprocket (above) that sticks out past the end of the shaft: it appears that the offset of parallellism to the rear sprocket would be 1/2 of the extra shoulder width of one side, or about 1mm. That part, at least, is well within factory alignment specs (4mm) for a new setup. Making the retainer washer fit might be a different issue, though.
And, that will raise this issue, to watch for: most "standard" sprockets have square-cut tooth tips, per ANSI requirements. But, on these bikes (for a variety of reasons), the teeth tips MUST be tapered. Honda sprockets are always cut with tapered tips. This greatly eases the entrance and exit misalignments (and related noise and wear) that occur from the high torques this mechanical system sees. The tapered tooth guides the chain to settle into the radius, rather than just crashing it into place. This puts more torque to the rear sprocket, and affects handling less, too (a slightly different, but related, topic).
745: how is the rear sprocket different on the 77-78 bikes? Is there a longer shoulder on the sprocket hub, to space the face outward?
On the original "K" series, the back side of the rear sprocket is flat, and the front is recessed to allow for the tin "grunge guide" to fit within the rear axle's span. So, when flipping the rear sprocket (to get that last 10,000 miles out of it), a spacer plate is needed (I've used a pair of cut-down "grunge guides" for years for this purpose) to space the teeth outward, and the "grunge guide" should be removed while the sprocket is run flipped. Technically, you can still run with the "grunge guide" in place, but the pinch points for flying debris can potentially get dicey then. I've done it with no ill effects. Honda does not recommend the "sprocket flip" practice, though, for obvious reasons.
Details on Honda's own sprockets:
1. Teeth are always tapered to ease side-loads and noise, reducing wear and increasing HP at the ground.
2. The shoulders are wider (speaking of 530 sprockets here) to prevent heating of the splines. This occurs under high-torque moments, when the engine is accelerating hard in the lower gears. Just 10% wider splines will reduce the heating almost 50%, and Honda's shoulders are almost 25% wider than the sprocket teeth. This issue stems from a smaller-than-recommended (by ANSI) shaft size for a 100 HP 530 sprocket setup like this one. (A relatively minor goof on the part of the 750 engine designers, who wanted to use 450 parts as much as possible...). The original 16T/45T sprockets on the K0 did NOT have shouldered sprockets up front, and the shaft wore quickly: I think there is even a Service Bulletin about this problem. (But, this is how we Honda wrenches got to see inside the 750 for the first time!)
3. Honda's sprockets do not grip the output shaft tightly, thus allowing room for lube to get inside. This occurs when the engine accels or decels, when the sprocket tilts toward the outside in opposite directions, wicking in some oil/grease from the area. If yours is rusty or dirty, clean this interface well, even apply a little grease, when reassembling.
Finally: what does a completed conversion look like on the K7/K8? Anyone have finished pix?
754:
Basic difference the sprockets on the 77/78 were moved out approx 1/4 inch or 6mm.
So if you are running 77/78 engine use the 77/78 sprocket carrier (and spacer.. or on an earlier carrier space out the sprocket.
I never turned a rear sprocket, they last real long anyway.. and I learned the hard way from the fronts that an increase in the slop around the roller will wear a chain quickly.. espescially new chain on worn sprockets.
I will never run a cheap industrial chain again, it wore so fast that the chain actually rode up on the front sprocket and broke about 8 teeth off, plus I was splitting rollers..
So back to the front sprocket, it is well worth running the wider Honda ones, I have torn out the spline without them..
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Back to the original question, the pics show what you have to do. You can grind the outer lip back on a Honda 530 sprocket or use a spacer, so that the mounting bolt and its washer does not dish in.
turboguzzi:
try here, they have a nice range and extremely well made
http://www.dc-afam.com/dc-afam/uploads/documents/0.b.Sprockets06.pdf
And here you'll find all the dimensions so you can basicaly pick up what ever sprocket code fits you
http://www.dc-afam.com/dc-afam/uploads/documents/2.Tech_front.pdf
TG
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