Topic: After market fuel cap gauge

[Shenanigans]

So I bought a 750 a while back that had one of those weird fuel cap gas gauges, the plastic was pretty much yellowed over and I pretty much forgot about it.

Being a fan of period after market stuff and my 550 being nearly done, I would really like to use it on 550. I looked up the part number and its the same for the stock caps between the 73 750 and the 76 550k so I think it should go right on to my 550. However were these made back in the day "universal" between the Honda fours? What is the best way to clean that plastic so I can actually see it again and what causes the plastic to fog like that?

I assume that it works using a bobber on some sort of string. Does anyone who has one know the length of the string. I suppose it does not have to be exact but I want some resemblance of it working. Since I am gonna have to make the string and bobber, what do you think would make a good float that the gas would not eat?

Oh, and how could these POSSIBLY work correctly/enough to warrant their use when new?

[gerhed]

I used to have a gauge on an old 4 cycle motor that used a round piece of cork riding up and down on a spyral shaft.
As the cork goes lower due to gas usage the cork turns as it goes down while turning a dial in the top
of the gauge.  I think the design is of British origin and has a specific name.
Not sure how well this would work on the current types of gas tank which actually have two
more or less separate reservoirs of gas.

[okie]

Is this like yours? 

For what it is worth, they don't work very well.  The float is always getting hung up inside the tank.  The float rattles against the sides of the tank.

For polishing the lens, go to Wal*Mart in the sporting goods section.  They have a white bottle of 3M Fiberglass Restorer.  It costs 8 or 10 dollars.  It is a polishing compound like nothing else I have found.  Use it liberally with a clean foam pad chucked up in your drill.  Be careful because it will get hot and melt the plastic.  If you get it too hot it will be trash.

[karmasic]

i love the way that gauge looks. where can i get one? work well or not, its got to be better then guessing and then running out of gas on the freeway. 

[Gordon]

work well or not, its got to be better then guessing and then running out of gas on the freeway. 

That's what the reserve feature is for.

I've never used one, but from what I've been told the after-market cap guages don't offer anymore help than just looking at your trip odometer. 

[Spikeybike]

I've never used one, but from what I've been told the after-market cap guages don't offer anymore help than just looking at your trip odometer. 

and looking cool

[Gordon]

and looking cool

Well... That's a given!

[Shenanigans]

Yeah okie, thats the one. All it is really good for is looks so I am just going to make a shorter string and cork line. As long as the needle moves I will be happy. I am gonna grab some of that fiberglass restorer soon and have at it. Thanks for the suggestion.

[bert96]

 Just use car compound,it make a really good job

[Jeremiah]

I use "Headlight Lens Restorer" found at auto shops.  This Blue polish is made for clear plastic and will also make your blinker caps and tail lens look like new. 

[Bodi]

I have one of those in one of my many boxes of old stuff hidden away. As has been said it doesn't work very well, and the float and chain rattle around quite a bit, and the chain tends to get in knots and show E way early. The trick is to calibrate it so that it hits E just about when you need reserve, by adjusting the length of chain between the float and cap; one end should have a clip to allow this. This will show F when the tank is around half full though, there's no range adjustment and from F to E is only two inches of fuel height maximum. When the float is floating it and the loose chain rattle against the tank, and if things get bumpy the chain will get in knots.
Anyway, it looks sortof OK and works sortof almost. I used it for a week or three until the rattling and general uselessness inspired me to go back to the stocker. The trip meter has rarely failed me, 100 miles and it's time to find a gas station.  Kids like to turn the little knob, though... reserve gets a lot of use too.
If you really like the look, disconnect the chain and your tank will always be full

[Shenanigans]

I have one of those in one of my many boxes of old stuff hidden away. As has been said it doesn't work very well, and the float and chain rattle around quite a bit, and the chain tends to get in knots and show E way early. The trick is to calibrate it so that it hits E just about when you need reserve, by adjusting the length of chain between the float and cap; one end should have a clip to allow this. This will show F when the tank is around half full though, there's no range adjustment and from F to E is only two inches of fuel height maximum. When the float is floating it and the loose chain rattle against the tank, and if things get bumpy the chain will get in knots.
Anyway, it looks sortof OK and works sortof almost. I used it for a week or three until the rattling and general uselessness inspired me to go back to the stocker. The trip meter has rarely failed me, 100 miles and it's time to find a gas station.  Kids like to turn the little knob, though... reserve gets a lot of use too.
If you really like the look, disconnect the chain and your tank will always be full

When I got, it was missing the chain and now it seems like too much hassle just to have a moving needle and extra noise. I kinda like the idea of it always reading full but maybe that stems from sometimes wanting to break the dash plastic in my car and hold the fuel needle over to the "F" side

[Gungosa]

I have every intention of posting a before and after of my fuel gauge. I can't read my gauge at all through the yellow clouded plastic. I'll pick some of this stuff up sometime soon and show the results.