My charging system on my CB650 was not working and I appears that the rotor is shot [resistance = 2ohms at the rings] and the regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier ["RR"] is shot [wont turn off the rotor field]. The stator is good and rectifier portion of the RR is good [verified by running the battery voltage directly to the rotor field and measured the Vac out of the rectifier leads as function of rpm -> had to make some jumper wires to jumper the stator to the RR allowing me access to the open rotor contacts in the 5 pin connector - measured the output on the RR green and red with the 3pin connector open].
I'm getting a rewound rotor from a reputable shop which took some investigating and there is no sense in replacing it with one from a salvage yard only to have the same problem a few years from now at best.
I like to know why and how things work and fix things. Even though it is easier to just buy a new RR and throw the old one away - I don't think our environment can tolerate this attitude much longer. In the process of investigating the how and why, I think it is possible to get a regulator out of an automobile alternator/buy a new one and use it in conjunction with the current rectifier section of my RR. No magic here as you can find RR replacements that use a separate regulators and rectifier mounted onto a heatsink/plate which can be much more durable than the OEM solution.
My plan is to wire the auto or motorcycle regulator like this: remove the black lead from the 3 pin connector [switched battery +] and wire it to the B+ / I lead on the regulator. Remove the white and black leads rotor coil leads from the 5 pin connector and wire the white to the "F" and "B-"[case grnd] on the regulator. If there is an "A" terminal on the regulator, that will go to B+.
Any wiring problems with the proposed wiring?
Recommmend voltage regulator? How is the Standard Motor Parts VR166 as far as quality? [this was used in another post for replacing mech regulator on the older CB750s].
