Here is my thought. There is no way to change the wear on a chain. No matter what, every link will hit every tooth on both sprockets the same number of times. So changing the position of your chain will do nothing.
Same goes for flipping it around. It is still going to contact the same number of times EXCEPT this time, it will be going against the wear pattern which usually has the result of speeding up wear, even more so if the chain has already been worn.
...which brings up this point: don't ever reverse the direction of your chain, if worn, unless you also flip it inside out. The plastic deformation of the insides of the pins will begin to shear otherwise, and your chain will suddenly grow SHORTER for a time (which will drive you crazy, wondering what's going on), then it will suddenly get very uneven, and slowly develop a whole lot of slack (because after it tightened up, you backed off on the adjusters, while wondering what was going on....).
The first time I did this, I was REAL puzzled, on my way thru Texas on a long trip. I had just flipped the sprockets before I left, and had just as purposefully reversed the chain, leaving the same side in, thinking that next time, I would flip it out, then reverse it again, so I could wear it out all 4 directions on the pins. (Smart, huh?) I left home, running about 65 MPH from 7 AM until about 10 AM (speed limits were 55 then), and began noticing the bike pulling to the right (had to push a little on the throttle side to keep it straight), and the bike had a sudden drop in power, and felt strange. I pulled off to the side of the Interstate and standed the bike, found the rear wheel almost locked tight. "Great", says I, "a wheel bearing is freezing, 150 miles from nowhere". Except, they were new bearings a few months ago. Then, I noticed the chain looked and felt like a banjo string.
Thinking I was losing my mind, I loosened the adjusters TWO FULL TURNS to get the 3/4" slack that I run, and hit the road again. After lunch, it was tight again! I loosened it again, made it to Odessa that night, and slept until 10 AM.
When I packed up next day and dropped it into gear, CLANK-CLANK went the chain on the guard.
I looked under, and there was about 3" of slack and the paint was worn off of the top of the swingarm.
Back on the stand, adjust to just 1" of slack (I'm feeling like Rod Serling is right behind me, now...), spray a little lube, hit the road. The bike is shaking its head on every corner, on slight downhills, like I've got a bent wheel.
I get to lunch (2 PM-ish), wondering if I'm gonna finish this trip with a whole bike. Stand the bike, run it in 1st gear to watch the chain: it's jumping so bad from uneveness that it finally loads up and kills the engine. So, it's gotta be this chain. I find a farm implement store and buy 100 links of #50 combine chain, put it on and hit the road again. It's a noisy chain, but gets me home 1000 miles later.
Back home, I contact Diamond Chain to have a rep come see me, under the guise of a machine I'm building (so they don't send some saleman). I tell him the REAL story, just like above, and he starts laughing at me. Then, he promises to send me some tech info, which he does, and it clearly states my opening comment: "Once a chain is run in one direction and the rollers and pins are burnished, do not reverse the chain direction. Under some circumstances, it is permissible to invert the chain, then run end-to-end reversed, as this will then engage the non-worn pin surfaces... Reverse loading of worn pins will cause plastic deformation and disintegration of the bearing surfaces inside the rollers, resulting in shortened chain length and cracked and locked bushings."
No kiddin.