Topic: Top End Rebuild Break In **UPDATE** HELP!!!

[JAG]

Well I was off a bit on the main jet; It's actually 115's with 40 being the slow jet. I have a set of 135's laying around, would those be way to high?

In regards to the needles, do  you think I should go up an notch or two? And if I have that figured correctly. that's simply moving the retaining clip up a notch and setting it back in there? And that'll help get it more richer?

If it ever stops raining, I'll take it for it's last spin before changing the oil, and rev her on up.

thanks again.

[scondon]

 Moving the needle clips one step towards the pointy end will raise the needles and "richen" things up. May be all you need?  I wouldn't go any higher than 120 on the mains but others have reported success in doing so.

    One step at a time on the needles, unless you are really,really lean in the mid throttle range. Any change on the carbs will affect other ranges(idle,needle,main jet) so go slow and map the progress with plug chops, or "seat of pants" measure for general idea.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

JAG,

If you've determined it is mechanically sound at 50 miles DO NOT keep it at or below 5000 rpm. You have to get the rings seated. Take it up to redline in lower gears EASILY at first without lugging it in higher gears. Vary your rpm riding range every time you're out for a ride. Just don't run the #$%* out of it initially. You'll know when it's time to hammer the hell outta it (when you can't stand it any longer  ) My style, anyway.

[JAG]

Okay well I took it around the last ten miles to hit the "50" mark. When I did, I moderately ran through the gears. I didn't snap the throttle or anything, I just allowed it to get up to 6500rpms. I have never revved my 750 that far, and man did I have to hang on. It was exhilerating and nerve racking at the same time.

Anyways back to work..

I changed the oil and in the bottom of the oil filter housing was a huge pile up of gunk. I really wish I could have taken a picture, but my camera sucks. It wasn't like the metal shavings I am use to seeing, before the rebuild, that is, but it was more like the consistency of wet sand. None of it seemed to be magnetic. I wonder if it could possibly be paint from where I painted the case. I plugged up all the holes I saw. Although I did end up painting the area where the housing for the filter bolts on. I plugged up the two holes, but I painted right over it.. Could paint, ( I hope it's paint, or something easy ) hold up under the heat and oil cycle to stay heaped up in the filter housing? The filter was full of it. The pan I use to drain the oil in showed the same.

I guess it's off to pull down the friggin oil pan and check the oil pump screen and the bottom of the pan itself.

Oh side note. Has anyone seen this new Castrol 4T "4 Stroke" Motorcycle Oil (10w40-20w50)??

I got some of 10w40 version. Interested to see how it works out. it was over $5 dollars after taxes per quart, so it's got to be decent atleast

[scondon]

Okay well I took it around the last ten miles to hit the "50" mark. When I did, I moderately ran through the gears. I didn't snap the throttle or anything, I just allowed it to get up to 6500rpms. I have never revved my 750 that far, and man did I have to hang on. It was exhilerating and nerve racking at the same time.

   Woohoo! that's what we like to hear

I changed the oil and in the bottom of the oil filter housing was a huge pile up of gunk. I really wish I could have taken a picture, but my camera sucks. It wasn't like the metal shavings I am use to seeing, before the rebuild, that is, but it was more like the consistency of wet sand. None of it seemed to be magnetic. I wonder if it could possibly be paint from where I painted the case. I plugged up all the holes I saw. Although I did end up painting the area where the housing for the filter bolts on. I plugged up the two holes, but I painted right over it.. Could paint, ( I hope it's paint, or something easy ) hold up under the heat and oil cycle to stay heaped up in the filter housing? The filter was full of it. The pan I use to drain the oil in showed the same.

     Sounds very much like paint and it should remain in your filter housing if that's the only place you painted the engine internals. I would not be overly worried about this. Engine paint, or paint for that matter, will not dissolve into liquid form upon introduction to heat and oil. It will flake off and break into tinier and tinier bits. These types of things are why I change the oil a few times in the first 1000 miles.

   Nothing you've reported so far sounds out of the ordinary for a first time build. Another few hundred miles and you may even risk calling it a success

[JAG]

Thanks I'm starting to show signs of relief!

If yall remember the post about "Using an engine that has been outside, uncovered"

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=35663.0

It'll bring me to my findings when I dropped the oil pan and screen. Again, I know pics are worth a thousand words, but I'm lacking a bit these days with the technological "nic-nacs".

...If you can imagine a wet cigarette with tabacco spewing out everywhere that's exactly what it looked like, around the many moths and bugs floating around. Dirt and grime, and one very small o-ring...

I know, w/o a reasonable doubt I installed everything correctly, so that o-ring may have been sitting there for quite some time.

I never touched the bottom half of the engine. In fact that is the only portion I used, mating it with the top half of mine. I figured the pistons would have kept most of the moisture and bugs at bay, but I'm sure those buggers have there ways of finding a home.

So, lessons learned about using an engine that has been sitting outside.

I think I'll change the oil again at 100miles then at 200 miles. After that I suppose I'll move up to 500 and then 1000 miles. After that I'll do it at regular intervals.. Just want to be perfectly clear that there will be nothing floating around that shouldn't be there.

How long do I need to continue trying to seat the rings? Is it rated in miles? Or is there a way you can confirm good seat? Would that be from a good compression?

[UnCrash]

Hey Jag,

Your ride looks great! Your dedication, persistence, and motivation are an inspiration.

Looks like you're smoothing out all the bumps.

Cheers-

[JAG]

Hey Jag,

Your ride looks great! Your dedication, persistence, and motivation are an inspiration.

Looks like you're smoothing out all the bumps.

Cheers-

Thank you very much, UnCrash, I appreciate it.

So today I waited for a break in the clouds to take her around for awhile. Round trip about 20 miles. For the first 15 minutes I went easy making sure that it got fully warmed up. Winded it out a few times getting close to 7K, although never going over it. Again what a rush. Shes screams with those pipes on her.

However something happened twice while I was out. I always down shift through the gears ( habit ) once I hit 2nd and was going to drop it into 1st, the rpms went way down, past 1000 rpms, and the engine died. Both times, I of course had the clutch engaged, so a quick hit of the starter button and it fired right up. I played a little bit the throttle knob, but it's already idling pretty high, and it seems somewhat inconsisent. Sometimes it idled at 1600rpms, and other it would idle at 1000-1100 rpms. So, I don't really know where to set it.  From a cold start, I don't even have to use the choke really, and it fires on the first spin of the starter button, and idles at 1100 rpms. Seems like it slowly rises as it warms up.

It also has a bit of inconsistent sputtering as you accelerate, like maybe the timing is off, getting gas at wrong times. When, I'm going down a hill and allowing the gear to hold me back, there is a lot of back pressure popping off..

Found some moisture around the valve cover, exhaust side, on that first ledge (fin). It seems to be drooling a bit. I don't suppose I should be worry about it, right? Leaks do happen after rebuilds. At least it isn't gushing I suppose.

What to do, What to do..

Like I said before it's bench set, and timing was dead on the last two times I checked it.. Could me wrong still though

Is it safe to sync up the carbies now? Anything "popping" in yalls mind??

Whew... Seems like I write books when I get on here..  Bet you guys are getting tired of it!!

[scondon]

 "popping" on decel sounds like lean condition. Would coincide with stalling out when closing the throttle on a hot motor. Make absolutely certain idle jet passages are clear(i.e. remove idle jets and air mixture screws/springs. Spray copious amounts of cleaner through jet and air mixture openings AND through the air jets pressed into carb throats, airbox side).

  Try raising those needles and synch carbs, check to see that valve gaps are still set as this needs to be done before syncing carbs. Also check for air/exhaust leaks as these can pop up on a fresh build once heat has been applied.


    Right on track,JAG

[JAG]

Okay..  So, checking off the list..

Check the timing to see if it's spot on....CHECK

Check the valve tappet clearance, to make sure that they're spot on...CHECK

Remove carbs. Do a meticulous once over with the jets. Raise the needles, by moving the clips one notch towards the pointy end- To richen things up a bit....CHECK

Check for leaks in and around the intake boots. and exhaust gaskets...CHECK

Remount carbs. Run engine till full operating temp. Sync carbs....CHECK

Test drive...CHECK

She runs like a champ now...

I'm as giddy as a school girl..  Thank you guys. Thank you Scondon!

thank you thank you thank you!!!