And info on lacing and truing rims
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485208http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-219833.htmlUltimately the instructions I'm using
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=368.msg205745#msg205745Well, this guy makes it look easy
And this guy makes it look not quite so easy
Maybe I'll just replace the broken spokes and call it a day
Edit: Or maybe I won't be able to resist the shiny new spokes and have to do it anyways
For any noob happening by and reading this lacing the rim is easy. After getting all the spokes in the right holes (take pics of your rim for reference) the only hassle I ran into was not keeping track of where the spokes were pointing as I put the nipples on one by one and ended up with a few under or over others. Not a big deal. Just had to undo a few to get them in the proper configuration. Took maybe 20 minutes.
Now trueing. That can't be done by eye and the crayon method was beyond my abilities.
So get yourself a dial gauge. I got one from Harbor Freight (measured in 1/100 inch increments - damn, need to pay attention to that kind of stuff as it's not hard to figure out the conversion to mm .04 but why? I mean it's made in CHINA - why inches?!) but I'm not in love with the base (cylinders with a wire you tighten up mounted to a vice grip) although HF sells the gauge and armature separately as well. Grizzly makes a full kit with armature that looks like the better deal and it's what the guy in the second video has in another of his videos (check it out if you want to see him blow a cylinder at SIR - Now Pacific Raceways).
Mine works fine though but the armature looks easier to deal with.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9849Also, get the spoke wrenches. I was using an adjustable wrench and it almost drove me crazy. Should be able to get a few hours to work on it here by Wednesday and I'll post anything interesting not covered above on getting it trued.
Edit: I got this spoke wrench
.
It's fine but I think the longer thinner ones would be preferred. Something with just a tad more leverage and a little more positive grip on the nipple (insert Beavis and or Butthead comment here). I munged one of the nipples and I think the style wrenches below would be better.
Damn, this thing reads like a blog
Some pics attached
Edit: 10.4
EPIC FAIL!Well, I tried. And tried. And then tried again. First time I couldn't get the hop out of the rim and ended up with a 5mm oval runout. Turned all the nipples out to one thread and started over. Better but couldn't get the hop under 2mm and the wobble less than 3 and ended up making what I thought were proper corrections but would throw the rim out elsewhere. Start over again. Seems to be going well till I hit the 2mm wall and things fall apart. Something like 12 -14 hours overall into truing this rim with no postive results except a deeper understanding of my limitations
I may give it another try as there are dual brakes and lines and bars to be drilled and then get back to the carb sync. But I think I may just have to hand this one to a professional and meekly beg to witness them performing their black art.
Urrrg. Geometry.
Edit: 11.5
So I got the rims up to Everett Power Sports and dropped them off. Got a call this afternoon with them telling me the rear has some cracks in it such that it will never be true. I'm a little conflicted whether to feel good about that as I'll get to buy a new/used rear rim. Heck with it. I'm gonna feel good it couldn't be done, get a new rim and see if I can get it trued myself this time
Edit: 11.9
Got the rim back and had a look on Friday. There are indeed crack lengthwise along the holes the spokes go into. They weren't there when I took it in and the guys at Everett Power Sports didn't touch it soooooo... I have to come to the conclusion that I tightened the spokes WAY over spec and fubared my own, probably fine, rim which I'll now have to replace. This one I give up for all the enthusiastic noobs out there. Beware
Pic attached.