Topic: 1976 750 K6 - help with removing superglue,and small tank dent

[dhall57]

Hello, this forum is great. I found this fine K6 several weeks ago and couldn't walk away from it. The bike is in such good shape I was able to ride it the 60 miles back to my home, not bad for a 33 year old machine. I wasn't ready to tackle the full rebuild project right now so this bike works out great for me. After fixing minnor things this old girl will be good to go!!!  A small amount of superglue is on my right side cover I don't have a good picture of it, but do you know of anything that will remove it without harming the paint? Also any suggestions on taking out dent in tank? The rest of the tank is in such good shape I in know way want to repaint it. If I have to I will just live with it. The ugly seat has to go and I want to get factory pipes back on it.

Here are some pics, Thanks   

[GammaFlat]

That dent in the tank looks pretty bad.  If you're trying to avoid tearing into the paint, there are a few things you can try.  Paint-less dent repair places might be able to get at it through the gas cap opening.  The other thing is, let it get real hot in the sun or warm the dent and area around the dent thoroughly and then place an ice cube in the dent.  Repeat this procedure a couple times.  I've heard this works for hale damage.  You may also try to perform a Google search on "hail damage repair" for ideas. 

Brand new factory pipes will be just over a $1000.  You can get them here: http://www.hondanuts.com/cb750.html and many other places.  They also have brand new complete seats (with hinges, strap, buckle,latch, seat pan, foam, cover, trim) for $250-ish.  You might also be able to find the pipes and seat on this forum or ebay. 

Don't know anything about the superglue issue.  I have a K6 (Antares red as well ) and I wound up buying new covers from LPM out of England.  Hopefully, you can use the ones you have.  Mine were broken up pretty bad. 

Good luck

[CycleRanger]

Good looking find!
Acetone will remove superglue.  It will also remove the paint.... 
Or you try could using a razor blade or Exacto knife to carefully remove the glue. Good luck! Proceed with caution..

[dhall57]

Hey, Thanks for taking time to reply and giving me some info. I might try your ice trick on tank to see if that helps any, but one thing that concerns me is that around outer edge of dent which does not show up in the picture there is a real fine break in the paint. My fear is that if I start getting some of the dent to come out the paint might come off to.I'll have to think about that before I take that chance.

That 4 into one pipe sounds good, and not to loud, but I just like the factory pipe look. Do you know what type of aftermarket pipe that might be?

So you have red 76 K6 also. Like to see some pics and info.

thanks

[GammaFlat]

Here's an older picture of my K6.  Since this pic, I have replaced the saddle (from Hondanuts.com).  My engine is coming out now... polishing on the outside and some major work on the inside as well.  I have a new set of HM341's and will be painting the LPM sidecovers.  I'm going to be tempted to paint the fork ears and headlight bucket as well (sort of like the K0).  

If your paint is cracked, I don't think you should be discouraged about trying to get the dent out.  Just understand that your paint is cracked and that's not going away and may get worse no matter what you do. 

[dhall57]

I'm not going to mess with the glue on the side cover. Its not that noticeable, and other than that the cover is in great shape.

Good looking K6. Good luck with the rebuild and your new pipes!!

[nvr2old]

These gas tanks are pretty thick steel.  Unfortunately I don't think anything short of an actual repair will be an option.  If the paint is already cracked around the edges, that's a pretty sure sign of having to repair, fill, and repaint.  Paintless dent removal might get it close, if it can be accessed, but it'll never be perfect.  Whatever yo do, don't drill holes in it to pull it out.  Chances are it'll never seal properly again.  A stud gun can tack weld a stud to the tank so you can use a slide hammer to pull it out, but that requires grinding it down to bare metal.  Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and do the repair.  Today's body fillers are wonderful products.  That dent's not so deep you couldn't just fill it and repaint it.  If you're careful and mask the stripes with several layers of tape as you do the repair you might even be able to save the stripes and just repaint the red followed by clear coats over the entire tank afterwards.  As a painter, I think that would be the best option in my opinion.  Good luck with it,

[dhall57]

Your right the tank must be some thick steel. Heating the dent and than apply ice didn't do a thing. I'll check with some PDR company's and some body shops to see what they would recommend. That dent stands out like a black eye and I would like to get it repaired if not to expensive.

thanks for info!!!

[GammaFlat]

DonDirtBiker (for $150) has "correct" colors.  I may talk to him about getting a kit so I can do my side covers and possibly an extra tank.  Does anyone have any other good sources of paint or a good match possibly with Duplicolor for my (and dhall57's) Antares Red?  

[greasy j]

I fixed a dent almost exactly the same without ruining paint using the 'ding king" they sell it at napa/schucks/kragen.

it is a bridge type of thing with a t shaped piece that goes in the bridge. it comes with hot glue gun and a special type of glue that holds very well then comes off without taking off paint. you will prolly hafta work it around in a circle from the outside in(multiple applications). they give you a chemical for removing the glue as well. you shouldn't need it too much if you have a good clear coat.

the paint job should be a good one though, or it may remove paint as well. being a painter, I know that the prep is what's important. if they didn't prep it right before painting it may come off too easy when pulled upon. if they did prep it right you will have no probs with the DKing.

but plan on doing it over and over again if you want it perfect. and at the end you will be just barely pulling up on dipped areas to get it completely flat. if you go too far you might have to wack it back down a bit. obviously use something rubber or plastic.

I would remove the krazy glue with a razor blade very carefully. better yet a completely flat blade so it's not wanting to dig in. like the kind used to refill a utility knife. if you're good at it you can get the glue off and leave the clear coat on. I've fixed drips with razors and gotten it so perfect that almost no sanding was needed, but I do this stuff a lot. a piece of paper will keep it a tiny bit up off of the surface so you don't go too deep at first.

nice bike! good luck!