Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84531 times)

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #175 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:49:05 PM »

I have tons of pics of the carb cleaning that I did, but I think I will post that under a separate thread of it's own for fellow noobs who are about to undertake that procedure. One question for you guys... I went ahead and used all of the parts from my carb rebuild kits except for the new jet needle and clip. If there seem to be indications that I need to swap those out, I will just deal with it later I guess.

Take a look at these studs... some of them have a little "band" of stretchy crud around them... What is this? Remnants of some sort of gasket?

Why isn't it on all of them?

kghost · « **Reply #176 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:51:16 PM »

SOme of them have oil flowing around them ...some of them don't

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #177 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:53:51 PM »

Tim. Do I need to figure out which ones have oil flowing around them and which don't and find a gasket out of my gasket set that goes around the ones that do have oil flow?

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #178 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:55:33 PM »

Spikey... It ended up setting me back almost $400+ bucks! But I'm hoping it will be money well spent.

kghost · « **Reply #179 on:** October 02, 2008, 08:57:18 PM »

Tim I don't remember specifically on the 350....Don't wanna steer ya wrong.

I believe theres some o-rings and such that go around the studs...

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #180 on:** October 03, 2008, 09:30:54 AM »

Looking ahead at what I'll need for the re-install. Manual talks about "piston ring compressor" tools. When I search online, most (all?) of what I see available is for much larger pistons. Mine are like 46.85 mm in diameter. Where do I get this?

MCRider · « **Reply #181 on:** October 03, 2008, 09:45:45 AM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 03, 2008, 09:30:54 AM

Looking ahead at what I'll need for the re-install. Manual talks about "piston ring compressor" tools. When I search online, most (all?) of what I see available is for much larger pistons. Mine are like 46.85 mm in diameter. Where do I get this?

I've used plain screw type hose clamps with much success. Get some closest to your diameter. Tighten them down to squish the rings, be careful none are pinched and they all go into their grooves, set the cylinders on top, the buckles on the clamps will keep the cylinders from dropping too far. Squirt some motor oil into each cylinder, let it run down to equally coat each cylinder bottom. If the bottom inside of your cylinders are tapered, simply loosen each clamp a tad and the cylinders will drop right on, slight tapping with mallet. Ring by ring, keep an eye on it as it drops that it doesn't cock, the pistons don't cock, and all the rings are going up into the cylinders.

I've also put dowel rods or yardsticks under the skirts of each pistons so they don't rock.

Crude but effective.

PS: Tip: don't put the buckle of the clamp on a ring gap, or it may not squeeze far enough.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #182 on:** October 03, 2008, 01:38:01 PM »

Hope I'm not stepping too hard on anyone's toes here, but here's some pics posted over on TheChopperUnderground.com in their tools section. Good site there, join if you haven't already.

mystic_1

MCRider · « **Reply #183 on:** October 03, 2008, 05:30:47 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on October 03, 2008, 01:38:01 PM

Hope I'm not stepping too hard on anyone's toes here, but here's some pics posted over on TheChopperUnderground.com in their tools section. Good site there, join if you haven't already.

mystic_1

Wow! That's it, I'm glad to see it so I don't feel like an oddball. Just a couple (4) $1.50 hose clamps and some wood. THose pieces of wood are far better than the sticks I've been using, I'll make some up and subscribe to that site. Thanks Mysty!

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #184 on:** October 05, 2008, 06:48:46 AM »

OK Fellahs,
I spent my available time yesterday cleaning up the engine and removing old gasket material. Today is the day it goes back together, I'd like some input BEFORE I get too deep.
First a couple of pics:
Here is everything, nice and clean and ready for reinstall:

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #185 on:** October 05, 2008, 06:56:32 AM »

First some important questions:
Remember this pic where the thread came out with the bolt when I was removing the cam cover?:

I am going to have to deal with that... and quick! When I looked at it last night, indeed the inside of that hole is threadless now. What the heck do I do? It is a 1/4" size hole... do they make helicoil that small? Is that the answer? Can I do this myself??? I can't afford another wasted month in the machine shop. I am hoping for a solution I can do myself immediately and still get the engine back in today. Too optimistic??? $:-\$

mystic_1 · « **Reply #186 on:** October 05, 2008, 07:03:01 AM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 05, 2008, 06:56:32 AM

I am going to have to deal with that... and quick! When I looked at it last night, indeed the inside of that hole is threadless now. What the heck do I do? It is a 1/4" size hole... do they make helicoil that small? Is that the answer? Can I do this myself??? I can't afford another wasted month in the machine shop. I am hoping for a solution I can do myself immediately and still get the engine back in today. Too optimistic??? $:-\$

Not necessarily, if you can lay your hands on the right metric-sized helicoil kit, you can have that hole fixed right up in about 15 minutes. M6 I do believe.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Thread-Repair-Kit/dp/B0002KKPXK

mystic_1

troppo · « **Reply #187 on:** October 05, 2008, 07:07:31 AM »

It looks like its already been heli-coiled, thats what you pulled out with the bolt

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #188 on:** October 05, 2008, 07:30:28 AM »

Thanks for the quick input guys. Troppo (or anyone)... Please explain. What if it has already been helicoiled? How does that impact my ability to helicoil the current problem? In other words... Which situation is it: A) Hurray! It has already been helicoiled, that will save me a couple steps... or B) Crap! It has been helicoiled before, now I can't helicoil it again...

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #189 on:** October 05, 2008, 10:35:51 AM »

Thankl you to Mystic_1... You identified the correct Helicoil kit. I found one at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. So, my first step for today will be to put in that helicoil. I am going to do that right now and will take plenty of pics of the operation for fellow noobs to learn from.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #190 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:33:46 PM »

The coil that came out with the bolt, what was it made of? Looks like aluminum from the pic, helicoil inserts are made of high-carbon steel and wouldn't, I think, deform like that.

If the material was aluminum, that's what happens when you over-tighten the bolt, it shears off the aluminum threads and you end up with an aluminum coil and a hole with smooth walls. It it was a helicoil that backed itself off, then you'd still have threads in the hole.

Tim, when running the tap from the kit into the hole, make sure proceed by going in a few turns, then backing the tap out to clear out the shavings. If you try to just run it all the way in, the shavings could jam up the tap and cause it to break. Also, use some oil on the tap. There's actual thread cutting oil on the market but any reasonably thick oil should do. Motor oil should be fine. Degrease the hole before inserting the helicoil.

mystic_1

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #191 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:45:11 PM »

The helicoil operation went swimmingly. Here are some pics and the blow by blow:

Here is the Helicoil kit and a tube of lock-tite.

Here is everything needed to get it in (Well, the tap holder isn't pictured here but you will see it on the photo for that step.

First step was to drill out the hole with a 1/4 inch drill bit. I first wrapped a piece of tape around the drill bit at a point high enough on the bit so that I would know when I had drilled deep enough into the hole to accommodate the insert.

After drilling out the hole, I put on some safety glasses and blew out the shavings with my air compressor.

The next step was to cut some threads into the hole with the tap that was included in the kit. Note: The tap handle is not included, so you will have to buy or borrow one.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #192 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:52:01 PM »

Like Mystic said above, you turn it a couple turns, then back out to allow the shavings to come out, then turn it in some more until you have gone deep enough to accommodate the insert.

Here is what the hole looked like after cutting the threads in with the tap but before inserting the helicoil.

The guy at O'Reilly's suggested a drop of "Red Threadlocker" to hold the insert in good and strong. I knew I wanted some to hold in that loose stud (if you recall from earlier in the story) so I picked up a tube.

Then you just screw the insert onto the end of the included tool and twist it right into the hole:

Here is what it looked like after the helicoil went in:

Ready to start putting the engine back together now. There are some gaskets in the kit that I am not certain about... so maybe I'll get some guys dropping in to advise, however, daylight is burning, so I will be pressing on and trying to do my best to figure it out as I go!

kghost · « **Reply #193 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:54:27 PM »

Tim ya need to snap that tang off if you haven't already......

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #194 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:56:39 PM »

Tim (kghost)... Thanks on the tang thing... yeah I did, just forgot to mention it. Stick around if you can, I am about to dive in head first on reassembly... wish you were here!

mystic_1 · « **Reply #195 on:** October 05, 2008, 02:57:42 PM »

Nicely done Tim.

I'd suggest Blue Locktite for the stud, in case you have to remove it at some point in the future. The red stuff is well-nigh permanent, short of taking extraordinary measures.

mystic_1

kghost · « **Reply #196 on:** October 05, 2008, 03:00:27 PM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 05, 2008, 02:56:39 PM

Tim (kghost)... Thanks on the tang thing... yeah I did, just forgot to mention it. Stick around if you can, I am about to dive in head first on reassembly... wish you were here!

Yeah well you live in Ohio! Its gonna get cold there soon. $:-\$

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #197 on:** October 05, 2008, 03:08:04 PM »

Mystic. Thank you for the timely advice. I have not yet done the stud, so I will take a moment to run up the street and get some blue.
While I am gone... Please anyone who cares to... start chiming in with some "first do this, then do that..." advice that I can review when I get back.
Something I'd really like clarified:
I see it that my first step will be to put the gasket on that the cylinder block sits on... then attach the pistons, clamp down the rings... and slide the cylinder block into place.
Correct?
A couple of things bugging me:
This pic shows some little stretchy band things around the some of the studs... kind of like remnants of something that stayed stuck on there during the disassembly process. Should I just pluck them off the studs before putting on the cylinder block? or just squish it down over them and hope they seal something if that was their intended purpose??? There do not seem to be any gaskets in the kit that look like they are replacements for these mystery bands...

TwoTired · « **Reply #198 on:** October 05, 2008, 03:18:01 PM »

You do know to back off all the tappet adjusters completely when putting the cylinder head cover back on? If you're not careful, you bend a bunch a intake/exhaust valves.

Cheers,

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #199 on:** October 05, 2008, 03:26:09 PM »

I did not know that TwoTired... Thanks, I wil be sure to do that.

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Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84531 times)

troppo