Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84914 times)

Sporkfly · « **Reply #325 on:** October 20, 2008, 07:57:54 PM »

I like the post (it might be in Tricks and Tips) about using an old 3.5" floppy disk and cutting it to fit the floats at the specified height. It's clever and seems like it'd be quite accurate, especially for old bent up floats.

+1 on the caliper and the slidey ruler (technical terms, meh!)

ev0lve · « **Reply #326 on:** October 21, 2008, 10:29:36 AM »

I'll vouch for the floppy. Did it for my 750 and it worked nicely. Really interested in your results with the Morgan as my Motion Pro is performing strangely

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=25423.msg262282

Not mine but this is what you'll end up with

Quick edit: Oh man. That sucks, you know, literally. The Morgan costs as much as I paid for the Motion Pro and NO FLUID. Mistakes were made on my part I think

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #327 on:** October 21, 2008, 03:13:52 PM »

OK. This is my first time digging into a muffler. My anual says to take out the baffle and scrub it with a wire brush. I removed the tip from the muffler, now I see this...

It seems like they must be talking about that metal thing protruding, but when I grab it with pliers, it doesn't really want to come out. Seems like it might even tear off that metal if I really give it a yank with pliers. What gives?

Spikeybike · « **Reply #328 on:** October 21, 2008, 03:17:54 PM »

if you have a round wire brush on a stick (dont know the technical term , but it looks like a big pipe cleaner)

its most likely just corroded in place, IMO removing it , isn't a biggie , unless it's a glass pack and you wanna redo the fiberglass

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #329 on:** October 22, 2008, 04:20:31 PM »

OK. Thanks Spikey. I picked up some brushes at Harbor Freight. And did a bit of scrubbing followed by blowing it out with the air compressor:

BTW- Spikey, I saw your bike for the first time last night. (Both iterations)... That is totally badass. Excellent workmanship!

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #330 on:** October 22, 2008, 04:41:02 PM »

The exhaust pipes are putting up more of a fight than I expected going back on. Those little metal collars that go on the end of the pipe weren't wanting to slide on in. I guess I should probably take a wire brush to them to remove the surface rust and use some assembly lube to help them slide in? Good idea?

I fiddled with these things for about an hour... I would just about get one, then the other would move and the collars would fall out on the floor... repeat... trying to manuever the muffler end up into the right position and wiggle everything to try to persuade them to slide in... I finally walked away and decided to tackle it later. Not before vowing that when Santa brings me some new exhaust pipes, those old ones are going to meet the same fate that the fax machine did in the movie "Office Space." Oh yeah, they aren't just going to be discarded... i am going to take a nice big sledge hammer and get medieval on their ass.

kghost · « **Reply #331 on:** October 22, 2008, 04:52:48 PM »

No No now Tim..What you wanna do is get biblical on thier a$$.

Like old testament....I'm thinking Joseph....sell them into bondage.

Trade them later for something ya really need.

As for getting the pipes on.....clean up the rusty studs....

Put on all four collars....Then do one clamp/ half moon at a time.

Start on one side and work your way across.

Sometimes it helps if you put the muffler bracket bolt in loosely

If you have the 4-2 do below.

Do one of one side then do the other of that side.

Treat them as two seperate pipes.

TwoTired · « **Reply #332 on:** October 22, 2008, 05:08:27 PM »

Assuming it goes together similar to a 550...

Review how those split collars fit into the flanges. There is a step in the casting to accept the collar shoulders. Important they go in that step.

Also block (or wire) up the mufflers so they are near where they mount. (They still have to move fore and aft for mounting.) If you let then hang from the exhaust flanges, they will deform the crush washers/seals, and they will leak.
The headers have to go into the head at the same angle as they will ultimately mount.

Cheers,

fastbroshi · « **Reply #333 on:** October 22, 2008, 06:18:52 PM »

At least you don't have four to do at once. +1 on the half moons, little by little is the ticket.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #334 on:** October 22, 2008, 11:12:56 PM »

It is 2:00AM, and I have to be at work at 7:30, so not much time to post. But, She is back together 100%! New spark plugs, filled back up with oil. More details tomorrow:

Must sleep now. Will hate myself in the morning, but I just couldn't stop.

RM81 · « **Reply #335 on:** October 23, 2008, 05:32:19 AM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 22, 2008, 11:12:56 PM

It is 2:00AM, and I have to be at work at 7:30, so not much time to post. But, She is back together 100%! New spark plugs, filled back up with oil. More details tomorrow:

Must sleep now. Will hate myself in the morning, but I just couldn't stop.

Congrats Tim! You better hurry. I heard they're calling for snow beginning of next week.

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #336 on:** October 23, 2008, 08:27:54 AM »

reminds me of when I did my carb rebuild. I got done at 2:00AM and had to work at 6AM. It was worth it.

Spikeybike · « **Reply #337 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:49:49 AM »

congrates Tim .. if i had a dollar for everytime i wrenched till 2am, i could most likely by another bike

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 22, 2008, 04:20:31 PM

BTW- Spikey, I saw your bike for the first time last night. (Both iterations)... That is totally badass. Excellent workmanship!

thank you very much my friend, for all the blood sweat and tears, it is well worth it

moham · « **Reply #338 on:** October 23, 2008, 11:29:58 AM »

your bike looks friggin great. just wait till you hop on and go screamin (you or motor or both) down the street...

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #339 on:** October 23, 2008, 02:21:42 PM »

Moham thanks for the props. The plan definitely calls for the bike and myself BOTH be moving down the street together, screaming or not.

Spikey- Looking forward to you teaching me how to weld on my next project bike "Chopper building for Dummies." That won't be for a while.

Hoodelly- Keep reading, there may be a carb issue you can comment on...

Fastbroshi/ Kghost- Little by little was indeed the ticket on those pipes.

TT- Thanks. Hanging the muffler end by a wire at the proper height helped alot.

Tim-(Kghost)- You talked me down once again. Thanks. It's always nice to apply strategies from the Good Book. I, too am a fan of the Holy Bible... read it cover to cover (and I read the cover

) BTW- as I recall, didn't Joseph's brothers kick the crap out of him and throw him into a pit before selling him off? I might feel better if I didn't skip that step.

Matt (OldRusty)- Snow?

dagersh · « **Reply #340 on:** October 23, 2008, 02:23:21 PM »

Tim,

I have been watching your thread with baited breath! Can't wait to see you running down the road on that bad boy!

Gersh

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #341 on:** October 23, 2008, 02:32:39 PM »

Dagersh- Thanks for checking in. Hopefully we'll be cruising soon. It has been a very satisfying build.

OK- Here is what happened after the final twist of the wrench last night...
I put the freshly charged battery in, switched the fuel petcock to "on", opened up the choke and hit the starter button. And start she did. Sounded a little throaty, but less clangy than before. It didn't stay running for long. After a brief time, carb number 1 and number 2 took a healthy pee on the garage floor. I shut the engine down and turned my attention to the growing puddle of gas under the bike!

I imagine (and hope) this is related to my failure to do ANY kind of float level measuring prior to installing the carbs? Well? $:-\$

Spikeybike · « **Reply #342 on:** October 23, 2008, 02:57:47 PM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 23, 2008, 02:32:39 PM

I imagine (and hope) this is related to my failure to do ANY kind of float level measuring prior to installing the carbs? Well? $:-\$

that's were my money would be

Artfrombama · « **Reply #343 on:** October 23, 2008, 03:06:07 PM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 23, 2008, 02:32:39 PM

Dagersh- Thanks for checking in. Hopefully we'll be cruising soon. It has been a very satisfying build.

OK- Here is what happened after the final twist of the wrench last night...
I put the freshly charged battery in, switched the fuel petcock to "on", opened up the choke and hit the starter button. And start she did. Sounded a little throaty, but less clangy than before. It didn't stay running for long. After a brief time, carb number 1 and number 2 took a healthy pee on the garage floor. I shut the engine down and turned my attention to the growing puddle of gas under the bike!

I imagine (and hope) this is related to my failure to do ANY kind of float level measuring prior to installing the carbs? Well? $:-\$

A bike that has been sitting for awhile, especially if the carbs dried out, many times you can cure a leaky carb by simply rapping on the bowl with a screwdriver handle.
The needle gets turned sideways and won't seat.

RM81 · « **Reply #344 on:** October 23, 2008, 04:45:53 PM »

Quote from: spikeybike on October 20, 2008, 03:32:33 PM

how about 4 bucks at any hardware store (just make sure you get the metric one)

Found one similar to this for 89 cents at Harbor Freight

I heard there's a chance of snow across Dayton to Columbus beginning of next week from the system that just took a dump in Nebraska.

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #345 on:** October 23, 2008, 09:28:38 PM »

Cheers to Art on this one. I tapped those carb bowls a bit and it starts now without the overflow. I have a video clip... Not sure if I post it the same as a pic?
Here is a try:

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #346 on:** October 23, 2008, 09:33:52 PM »

Now about that clip:
A) No comments on the pink camera strap (it is my wife's camera

)

B) I didn't think to have the choke open at first, so that is why it wasn't firing up at first.

C) Now, I had to keep giving it throttle for it to run. I guess I need to richen the air fuel mixture? Now without digging out my manual, I am thinking that is accomplished by fiddling with these?

I think I started with the screws turned all the way in and then backed out half a turn. Does it richen the mixture the more turns I back out?

RM81 · « **Reply #347 on:** October 24, 2008, 05:44:14 AM »

Quote from: Tim in Ohio on October 23, 2008, 09:33:52 PM

C) Now, I had to keep giving it throttle for it to run. I guess I need to richen the air fuel mixture? Now without digging out my manual, I am thinking that is accomplished by fiddling with these?

I think I started with the screws turned all the way in and then backed out half a turn. Does it richen the mixture the more turns I back out?

From the CARB FAQ

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5410.0;all

What happens when I turn the airscrew out - richer or leaner?
If your airscrew is on airbox side of carb, turning out will lean mixture; opposite if airscrew is on engine side of carb.

I have the same gas overflow issue on my 350. Tapping the bowl will help mine sometimes, but it always comes back. I'd keep an eye on it.

gonzobrian · « **Reply #348 on:** October 24, 2008, 05:48:59 AM »

Just got caught up on reading the thread. Thanks for taking so may pictures and posting your questions. This thread has been a big inspiration. Keep up the good work and good luck with the carbs.

RM81 · « **Reply #349 on:** October 24, 2008, 05:51:04 AM »

Quote from: gonzobrian on October 24, 2008, 05:48:59 AM

Just got caught up on reading the thread. Thanks for taking so may pictures and posting your questions. This thread has been a big inspiration. Keep up the good work and good luck with the carbs.

I agree. Tim inspired me, another self proclaimed moron, to attempt my own build.

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Author Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates... (Read 84914 times)