Topic: 1973 CB350F "Freakshow Build" completed! Stay tuned for updates...

[Spikeybike]

plus the wrap isn't exactly cheap either

[Tim in Ohio]

Regarding the spark plug thread issue.  I tried to get it started from the other side...  it was Deja vu all over again...  It wouldn't "catch" and get moving.  I fiddled with it for about 20 minutes... That "ratchet" idea popped up again and I immediately said, "Oh Hell naw..."  I've been there, done that.  Decided since I am taking it to a machine shop tomorrow anyway...  he can just fix it for me, quick and painless.   

[mattcb350f]

Regarding the spark plug thread issue.  I tried to get it started from the other side...  it was Deja vu all over again...  It wouldn't "catch" and get moving.  I fiddled with it for about 20 minutes... That "ratchet" idea popped up again and I immediately said, "Oh Hell naw..."  I've been there, done that.  Decided since I am taking it to a machine shop tomorrow anyway...  he can just fix it for me, quick and painless.   

~Applause~ 

Good call Tim! I bet there is some real stuborne carbon in those threads stopping the plug from threading in.

$35 sounds really good to me, so my guess is they won't charge much to run a thread chaser through the spark plug hole for you.

As for the exhaust, A MAC system will run +/- $400 or sometimes cheaper if you shop around. If that's a 4-2 system you have than maybe you could just buy some aftermarket mufflers to stick on your pipes.

This is what I'm thinking, just as an idea, I pulled this off a google seach for universal mufflers. there is probably a universal muffler better suited to fit your bike for about the same price :http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=4033319

 Matt.

[martino1972]

+1 on the machine shop fixing the sparkplug tread...

exhaust...straith pipe it..

kidding,not good for neighbores, ....just put em back on,and keep eyeing ebay and such,you will find a good deal on pipes if you give it time...

[Tim in Ohio]

Matt,
That looks like a good solution. It actually looks like what is on there now.  Could possibly get away with just one to replace the bad one, the other is fine. My pipes are 4 into 2 setup.
The muffler part is the only rusted part...  the exhaust pipes themselves look good.   Martino, eBay is always good gor the occasional score.
Would this gaping hole in the muffler affect fuel economy or performance?  My guess is just a little, not tremendously.

[Tim in Ohio]

OK Guys.  Cylinder block, head, and pistons have been dropped off at the machine shop.  He said he will get to them next week.

I got my gasket kit today:


Holy Schnikeys that's alot of little unrecognizable (to me) parts!  There are the obvious ones...  by the shape...  and then there is a schikload of other ones.  Can I count on my smart friends to help me identify what goes where when the time comes?   

I guess while I await the results from the machine shop, it would be a good time to tackle those carbs.  I have heard some people say that you can keep 'em all hooked together and get the job done, saving much headaches from having to put the assembly back together.  Thoughts?

[hoodellyhoo]

Here I had a thread bookmarked with pictures identifying all the gaskets in a set for a 400 and now it doesn't work. I did a search and couldn't find it either. I tried.

[scunny]

leave the rack together if you can. just be thorough with your cleaning, and yes you have to pull out the idle jets.

[DarkRider]

Looking great on the resto so far man!

Take a look at this site for some universal mufflers. You can get your self a pair of them for the cost of the wrap. If you like wrap the headpipes and thats it.

http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-exhaust.php?category_id=5.1

[Tim in Ohio]

Dark:  Nice lead on those mufflers.  I was very pleasantly surprised by the prices!  Thanks.  And thanks for the encouragement.

[Pwfyrcat1]

Greetings, Tim in Ohio.  I am in same similar waters and will be watching you.

Paula

[Tim in Ohio]

Welcome Paula, Thanks for checking in.  Should have some carb cleaning pics up today or tomorrow.

[Tim in Ohio]

Well, I started the carb clean.  A couple questions popped up early.  This time, I figured, take it slow... ask questions first rather than after mangling something.

First a simple, non-critical question.  About dealing with these little clips that tend to pop up here and there on a bike, usually helping to hold hoses on.

Is there a 'proper' way of loosening these so that they don't get too bent out of shape?  I usually just stick a flat blade screwdriver in between the two "loops" and wedge them apart.  That gets them looses enough to move out of my way, but putting them back on??  How to ever get them nice and tight again?

[Spikeybike]

those clamp never come off right , there just too old .

if you can get them off and reuse them , good for you, but i would't bother.   

just repace them as you go , with regular hose clamps

[TwoTired]

Is there a 'proper' way of loosening these so that they don't get too bent out of shape?  I usually just stick a flat blade screwdriver in between the two "loops" and wedge them apart.  That gets them looses enough to move out of my way, but putting them back on??  How to ever get them nice and tight again?

I use a pliers to remove/install those.  Start with the pliers flats touching the ends of booth loops, then apply pressure as you twist the pliers 90 degrees.  This "opens" the clamp and the continued pressure of the pliers face on each wire loop holds the clamp "open" so it will slide off.

Don't know if I'd reuse rusty ones.  But, they only work right if you use the proper 5.5mm hose.  They don't have enough power to function correctly when using 1/4 inch hose.

Cheers,

[Tim in Ohio]

Next, I left the four carbs hooked together on the rail.  and took the bowl off of carb #1.

Not too bad inside, just a little crud to clean off.  I have some Simple Green for cleaning.  But notice the rubber O ring seal around the top of the bowl.  Because of this, I was reluctant to submerge the bowl into a bath of solvent.  I don't have replacement gaskets to use and want to avoid it.  I just squirted a generous amount of Simple Green into the bowl, used a toothbrush inside to clean away the varnish, then rinsed it with some water and dried in the sun.

I removed the leaf spring and floats.


It was clear that the slow jet was to be removed with a standard slotted head screw driver:



This next pic is where I got a little stumped.  The manual says to remove the valve seat and the main jet, which my fingers are pointing to in the pic.  The thing is, there is no slot for a screw driver, the ends of each are rounded so putting a wrench on them isn't the answer...
Since they appear to be brass, I don't want to risk mangling them by just clamping on real tight  with some pliers and tugging on them.  How do they come out?

[MCRider]

I've seen people using the miniature zip ties from RadioShack to replace these and other types of hose clamps. I haven't done it myself but sure seems like a decent idea.

[TwoTired]

The main jet and float needle seat just pull out.  They are currently retained by old, hard orings that seal against the carb body.  The orings will have to be replaced once disturbed.

Cheers,

[Tim in Ohio]

Thanks  Spikey, MCRider and Two-Tired.  MC I have used zip ties for this on my little 1979 Kawasaki KE100.  (I am original owner. My son is freshening this bike up along side me while I work on the 350.)


OK.  Time for one of those embarrassing questions that you guys thought everybody knew the answer to...     Where can I get replacement O rings (short of buying an official carb overhaul kit?)  Hardware store?  Will the right size to get be apparent?

[Artfrombama]

I noticed my old fuel supply hoses are deteriorating, when I pulled the bowls off (for the 4th time) there was a black residue that I assume whas the inside of the old hoses.
IMO, the best replacement hose is the grey "Tygon", soft and pretty tough.

[Tim in Ohio]

Thanks Art.  Where do you get it?  Also, anyone...  when I need to replace those little O rings on my main jet and my float valve seat...  where do I get some?

[84Olsen]

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/genuine-spares/part_2853/

A hardware shop should also have the o-rings, but I would use some that can handle petrol like nitrile.

[Artfrombama]

Thanks Art.  Where do you get it?  Also, anyone...  when I need to replace those little O rings on my main jet and my float valve seat...  where do I get some?

I get mine at the local Kawasaki dealer. I would take a sample to your local dealer so you can get the correct size.
The little clamps are really "Mickey Mouse" but work really well, don't clutter up the fuel petcock too much. You can slide them into position with needle nose pliers and fingernails .

As far as cleaning the carburetor, get a couple of cans of spray carburetor cleaner, works much better than simple green.

[mattcb350f]

I got K&L kits for my 350F, but I had a problem with the carb bowl gaskets swelling after I took them apart after the rebuild to change jets.

K&L and Keyster kits are virtually the same but the costs are different. I got them here http://www.siriusconinc.com/default.asp but you can get them at many places so shop around.

Here's a pic of the K&L kit so you can see what comes in it. Just be sure that if you get an aftermarket kit, use the original Honda 'needle' as a few members have found that their profiles are different.



 Matt.

[TwoTired]

OK.  Time for one of those embarrassing questions that you guys thought everybody knew the answer to...     Where can I get replacement O rings (short of buying an official carb overhaul kit?)  Hardware store?  Will the right size to get be apparent?

It will have to be a pretty complete service hardware store to sell those metric orings.  They are NOT standard plumbing sizes.  Of course, the right ones are in the honda gasket set.

I think Kevin400F had some orings to sell individually.  You could PM him to verify.

Cheers,