Well, this weekend I finally did it. I rode out to Jersey where the genius Armen keeps his garage and we (he told me what to do, I did what I could and he did the things that required skill and/or compressed air) rebuilt the front end. tapered steering head bearings, fork seals, new springs. I'm sorry I didn't have a camera with me, i would have loved to have a picture of my bike in pieces. It took nine hours, my nails will never be clean again and i need to take the instrument cluster light cover off to re-arrange the bulbs, but still. I DID IT!!!! YAY!!!!!
(Incidentally, we established that fork oil leaked onto the brake pads, and that's why they suck so hard. but that's a project for another day).