On those cable-carbs, sometimes the #4 or #1 cable would pop up out of its holder on top of the carb(s) after messing around with them. They need to get pushed all the way down in again, and make sure the cable routing overall is such that it does not pull them out again when the throttle is opened all the way, then closed. This was one of the headaches of the early design. It makes those 2 slides stay open about 1/8" which will make about 3000 RPM in neutral.
If the carbs are overflowing, something is wrong with the reassembly. Here's what I would do:
1. Remove the sparkplugs to let the fuel dry out. After a couple of hours, squirt a drop or two of oil in those holes to relube the rings next time you start up, so they don't get scratched and galled.
2. Drain the oil in the crankcase. If any gas got past the rings, it will be down there, nowhere else, so long as the bike is not started. If it was started, then change all the oil, and the filter before strating it again, or it can gall the crank bearings.
3. In those carbs: they are old now. Often, along the inside edges of the little posts where the float pivot pin holds the floats on, they have developed a tiny burr from years of going up and down. This burr is caused by the sharp edges of the float bracket. This burr also makes the dang bracket stick, just below where the needle would close, flooding the bowl. So, take a new razor blade, remove the floats, and gently slide the blade up the inside of the post(s). You'll be able to feel this little burr: trim it off with the blade and a bit of fine sandpaper, clean well, and do the other one. Repeat as necessary to the others. This is pretty common, usually appears at above 10,000 miles of use, and not just on these bikes.
