Topic: drive chain life

[gregk]

1976 - 750 F

I have gone through three final drive chains  (conventional) in about 5000 miles.  I removed the original chain shortly after I bought the bike as the chain was rusted and some of the links were frozen.  I didn't replace the sprockets at this time, just the chain.  That lasted about 1500 miles and the chain was stretched to the limit.  I then replaced the chain and both sprockets with the same results.  I have since put another chain and am getting frustrated at the limit service I get out of the chain.  I admit that I ride the bike hard but I would expect to get alot more than 2000 miles out of a chain.  I would like to think that i am adjusting the chain properly as directed by the manuals and advice from this forum. I always lube the chain at regular intervals, in fact every time I get off the bike at home.  i can't see any fault with the sprockets or the alignment.  A friend also looked at the set up and commented that he thought the old sprockets were alright.  The chain will almost immediately show signs of distress and requires constant adjusting.  The chains will discolor to a red rust color like a primer paint. 
Am I expecting too much from a chain or is this just the way it is?

Greg

[bryanj]

Not lubed enough + non quality chain will give those results

[TwoTired]

What lube are you using and how often is it applied?

[BobbyR]

Here we go.......................

[gregk]

I generally lube the chain at about 300 mile intervals although some lubes at shorter distance. The first lube I used was a PJ  (sticky stuff but I don't remember the color).  The last two chains I have been using Bel Ray chain lube ( the white stuff).  i switched to the Bel Ray because I got tired of cleaning up the sticky stuff.
The first two chains were RK 530 heavy duty chain.  The last chain is a DID.  I have been paying about $75.00/chain.


Greg

[bryanj]

There are only two reasons for chain life that short with decent makes and lube

(1) chain alignment out

(2) you are thrashing the arse out of it all the time (no offence meant)

[andy750]

For $75 you can get a decent RK O-ring chain (530 though) -Dennis Kirk has them. You should typically get +15,000 miles out of one with heavy duty riding and lubed every 700 -1000 miles with Chain wax or equivalent. Of course some on here can make it last much longer by taking even more care.

but as Bryan mentioned check alignment and sprocket condition - poor sprockets will eat chains!

cheers
Andy

[Steve F]

For $75 you can get a decent RK O-ring chain (530 though) -Dennis Kirk has them. You should typically get +15,000 miles out of one with heavy duty riding and lubed every 700 -1000 miles with Chain wax or equivalent. Of course some on here can make it last much longer by taking even more care.

but as Bryan mentioned check alignment and sprocket condition - poor sprockets will eat chains!

cheers
Andy

+1 on the o-ring chains!  You spend more, but you only need to adjust them about 2 times over their life WAAAAy worth it.

[upperlake04]

Greg - similar experience with chains here     What brand of replacement sprockets are you using?

[gregk]

upperlake

Hey, i was born in Saskatoon! 
I don't remember the brand name and I am at work right now but, when I replaced the original sprokets the replacement pieces looked identical to the original.  In fact there was no visiable wear on the originals that I could see and this was verified by a friend from Regina.  At that point I was willing to try anything to get a workable chain/sprocket set up on the bike.  I still have the originals ( 13000 miles).  I have read at length on the forum search regarding chain wear/sprocket wear/chain type/chain lube etc. 
You mentioned that you are having a similiar problem.  Does the chain turn a rust color even though it isn't exposed to rain?  The chain requires constant adjustment. 

PS  Do you know Vern Ambler?  He had a very complete collection of SOHC 4's years ago.  Not sure if he still lives in toon town.

Greg

[Bob Wessner]

That is an estounding amount of chain wear for sure. I second looking at alignment. You don't say what sort of riding style you have, but do you frequent dusty or sandy roads?

[upperlake04]

Does the chain turn a rust color even though it isn't exposed to rain?  The chain requires constant adjustment. 

  Yes it does. I have needed to adjust it every 3-500 miles since it was new which has been a PIA. At 5000 miles on chain and sprockets, they're nearly toast and thats with regular lubrication (Castrol spray and now 90w oil-no difference that I see) , proper alignment and mostly highway miles, and with an old man at the controls.
  The replacement chain is a 630 EK Sport non O-ring and the 15/41 sprockets are Kimpex. My best guess, since the rear sprocket bolt holes were not drilled accurately and required hand filing to install and centre, is that the teeth are also not well matched to the chain and have caused the premature wear. The wear is measureable on the chain and visible on the sprockets.
  I have heard Vern Amblers' name associated with SOHCs, but have not met him. 38C on the prairies yesterday

[gregk]

Bob

I must admit I ride the bike hard.   The roads that I ride are all paved with a minimum of loose material.  I generally wait until the winter sand is cleaned off in the spring  before I venture out.  
The alignment in my opinion is good and have spent alot of time with straight edge and lines marked on the garage floor to verify that the hash marks on the swing arm are close. The sprockets should show wear to one side if the alignment is off (I think). Sprokets appear to wear evenly both sides.

Greg

[TwoTired]

Do you know what alloy your sprockets are made off?  Are they from Honda?

Do you hate PJ1 (black can) more than replacing chains at closer intervals? 

When you used PJ1, did you apply and then ride or apply at end of riding day?

[Steve F]

You aren't adjusting the chain too tight are you?  Almost every sprocket will have a "tight spot" where the chain slack is greater in some places than others as you rotate the wheel, and you should adjust the slack at the tightest point of the sprocket.  Too tight, and your chain/sprockets will wear prematurely.

[gregk]

I still had the old chain box in the garage.  It is a RK 530 KS Heavy duty chain.  That chain I lubed with the PJ1 its entire (short)life.  The chain was lubed at the end of a ride or i would take the bike out for 15 minutes and then come home and lube and let dry.  I tried to check the sprocket to see if it was running true (vertically) but then realized that the chain would have to come off first to get a true reading.  There appears to be some slight side to side movement of the chain on the rear sprocket when I spin the wheel.  The information on the RK chain box said " fo best results, remove and clean every 300 miles".  I guess that I am not prepared to do this every 300 miles and i don't think that it should be required.  The box also noted that a tight chain would cause accelerated wear on the sprockets and chain while the loose chain would just slip or fall off! 
The second RK chain was lubed with the Bel Ray lub and I didn't have any better luck with that one either, just easier to keep clean. 
I have had about 20 chain driven bikes over they years and this is the only bike that i have had these problems.  makes those belt an shaft bikes look better all the time.

[Bob Wessner]

I'm with you, if I had to remove and clean my chain every 300 miles, I would have parked my bike long ago. 

[hopterfixer]

I may lube my X-ring chain every 300 miles and I like the fact that it hasn't needed much adjusment it in a few thousand miles.  The standard chain needed it every couple hundred.