Topic: Front Wheel Questions

[Accolay]

I took the front wheel off the '77 CB 550F. With my bicycle repair experience, usually wheels turn/spin easy on the axle. The old grease on this bike is now glue like with dirt mixed in for good measure.

How easy should the wheel spin on that axle? Where can I find the tool to take the hub off?

[Accolay]

While I'm at it, anyone have an auto parts store source that carries tongued washers for the front or rear wheels? Do I have to ask for them by a different name? When I ask for "tongued washers" I get a blank stare.

[Triffecpa]

The wheel should turn easily on the front axle.  If it doesn't, sounds like replacement wheel bearings are needed.  Not sure what you mean by a tool to remove the hub.  To replace wheel bearings, you need to drive them out from the inside.  there is a spacer that fits between the bearings though that complicates the matter somewhat.  You need to reach in thru the axle opening and push aside the spacer on the other side of the wheel and then use a long drift and drive the bearing out.  Pace your blows around the wheel so that the bearing comes straight out of the hub.

TR

[rhos1355]

Or you could buy what is known as a "blind bearing puller". But they're bloody expensive (£Sterling89) and they don't always work. Also if you do take it to a shop to have the bearings drifted out, make sure they understand that it has to be done from the opposite side. Luckily I was standing behind the pimply twat apprentice just as he was going to give my hub an almighty wallop with a chisel and a 14lb hammer! I stopped him just in time!!

[Accolay]

I think I meant "tool to take the bearings out of the hub"

Thanks

[mystic_1]

The tabbed washers for the front rotor and rear sprocket sometimes come up for sale on eBay.

mystic_1

[Accolay]

Thanks mystic. Looks like there are actually some for sale now on ebay.
I know I can order the OEM tongued washers for the rear from honda: can order them online or from my local dealer. I guess I just don't want to order them.

Wouldn't it be great to walk into a parts store that had the parts you need in stock? I guess that's what we get for lusting after old motorcycles.

[bryanj]

You have to remove the threaded retainer that the seal fits in----look for the "staked" dimples and drill them out with a 1/8 drill, then you can drift the bearings out

[Johnie]

Here is a pic of the retainer ring Bryan was talking about.  You do not have to drill very far at all into those dimples which are designed to hold it in place.  The pic is of the rear but the front is about the same.  So if you change the 2 bearings in the front, keep in mind there are 3 in the back if you decide to tackle that area.  I changed all my bearings on my KO just so I knew where I was at.  Click the pic to make it bigger.  Good luck with it.

[coyotecowboy]

...look for the "staked" dimples and drill them out with a 1/8 drill...

Good tip, I'd have never thought of that!

[Accolay]

The Manual shows that I need the tounged washers like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-C50-C65-C70-NOS-Sprocket-Mount-
Tongued-Washers_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ220177123881
(conveniently sold in pairs when I need three of 'em)

Anyone know the part number or size for a CB550? Is this it?  45217-166-006 ?

[bryanj]

You can use the old ones at lest twice before replacement
front 3 x 90522-300-010
rear 4 x 90524-323-000

And they are called "Tab" or "tongued" washers

[Accolay]

After a little more research (while at work-slow day), The Manual, under Chapter 17. "Supplement to CB550K2 ('76)" shows that I actually DON'T need the tongued washers for the front wheel:

2. Front wheel. The front brake no longer use the tanged washer and nut arrangement for the attachment of the brake disc to the wheel hub. The disc is now tightened with UBS nuts. Tightening torque: 270-330 kg-cm (20-24 lbs-ft)

I assume when they make updates to later models, these updates carry onto all models afterwards yes?
What are UBS nuts?

[Accolay]

One more question if you please:
Is there a source for the rear wheel o-rings? At least the sizes are included in the description....

From the fiche:
22.  SKU: 91261-323-000
O-RING (79X2.6) (Honda Code 0256818) (NOT AVAILABLE) 1 $2.12

23.  SKU: 91262-323-000
O-RING (92X2) (Honda Code 0256826) (NOT AVAILABLE) 1 $2.52

[BobbyR]

Here is a pic of the retainer ring Bryan was talking about.  You do not have to drill very far at all into those dimples which are designed to hold it in place.  The pic is of the rear but the front is about the same.  So if you change the 2 bearings in the front, keep in mind there are 3 in the back if you decide to tackle that area.  I changed all my bearings on my KO just so I knew where I was at.  Click the pic to make it bigger.  Good luck with it.

OK once I drill the threaded retainer dimples, does the retainer spinn off and then you can drift out the bearings. I am thinking of this as a winter project, I want to do it right. I have some other stuff to do also. What bearings do you fellow recommend?

[rhos1355]

I wouldn't say the retainer "spins" out, but it does come out without having to beat the merry hell out of it. It's also helpful if you fashioned a tool that would have a couple of "teeth" that would fit into the recesses of the retainer and then you dont have to use a punch or blunt instrument to turn the retainer.

[Johnie]

That is right Bobby.  I just used the long drift and hammer and they came out easy on my KO.  Don't let that darn spacer between the bearing pi$$ you off to much.  You will have to force it over to the side a little with the drift so you can get a good bite on the bearing edge.  I have included a pic of the spacer.  I installed pre-packed sealed bearings from the local bearing supplier.  I just took my old ones in and he just took the number off it and had them in stock.  I replaced my 2 front and 3 back in the KO so I will not have to worry about it.  The cost was $35 for all 3 back ones and $16 for the 2 front.  Good luck with it.

[BobbyR]

That is right Bobby.  I just used the long drift and hammer and they came out easy on my KO.  Don't let that darn spacer between the bearing pi$$ you off to much.  You will have to force it over to the side a little with the drift so you can get a good bite on the bearing edge.  I have included a pic of the spacer.  I installed pre-packed sealed bearings from the local bearing supplier.  I just took my old ones in and he just took the number off it and had them in stock.  I replaced my 2 front and 3 back in the KO so I will not have to worry about it.  The cost was $35 for all 3 back ones and $16 for the 2 front.  Good luck with it.

Thanks Johnie. I will be bothering you boys soon as i get ready to start.