Topic: Rear wheel hub

[JZEROE]

Howdy.

In my rampant scouring of ebay for the most girlfriend-annoyingly-expensive CB550 winter project *of all time*, I've recently started looking at rear wheel hubs. I'm thinking to get a '78 750F swingarm/brake caliper assembly to provide my '75 F a little more rear brake action. There are a lotta hills around SF, and, in my constant effort to keep the front forks as unloaded as possible, I'm finding the rear drum a little wimpy.

But I like the width of my rear tire. I was thinking to just get a disc-brakeable wheel, cut out the hub, and spoke it to my current rim. Any opinions about which year I should use? Should I be looking for cush drive, or is it just one more thing to maintain plus a wee bit of unsprung weight?

Thanks!
J

[Really?]

Do not know if this will work on a 550 but have you seen the cyclex page?

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Honda%20Page.htm

Scroll down.

[Geeto67]

I am not sure what you are talking about. A 1978 cb750F is a comstar wheel, not a spoke and you cannot cut the hub out and lace it because there is nothing to lace. The 1975-1976 750F have a disc spoked rear wheel but the brake parts off of that are not interchangible with the 77-78 rear disc brake parts.

If you want to get a 75-76 setup my suggestion is to keep the rim that is on it and use that. what are we talking about in width difference...10mm? 20mm? At best there is going to be very little difference between the tire oyu have now and the one that you would use for the 750 rear rim.

That being said the 75-76 caliper is not that great a rear brake, it is powerful for a low pressure system but it will likelt be overkill for the dry and useless for the wet.

Cycleexchange sells a $400+ drum to disc conversion where you get a disc hub that replaces the drum with a grimeca knockoff caliper and disc. It is nice and pretty and way better in terms of a brake but it ain't cheap and it certainly is heavy.

[JZEROE]

That being said the 75-76 caliper is not that great a rear brake, it is powerful for a low pressure system but it will likelt be overkill for the dry and useless for the wet.

So you're saying it's too powerful?

[super pasty white guy]

It's quite easy to lock up the rear with the  75-76F brake.  If you want to increase braking power, it's really best to concentrate on the front.  Though I hear (but can't confirm) that the 78 model is less grabby and MAY be able to interchange with the 76. 

spwg

[Geeto67]

It's quite easy to lock up the rear with the  75-76F brake.  If you want to increase braking power, it's really best to concentrate on the front.  Though I hear (but can't confirm) that the 78 model is less grabby and MAY be able to interchange with the 76. 

spwg

The 78 DOES NOT interchange with the 76. No MAY about it.

The 76 rear brake is basically a front disc on the rear, with that diameter it has a lot of leverage on the rear wheel (basically the stopping power of a front disc) but as you brake the rear end of the bike gets lighter as weight shifts forward which is why it is easy to lock up the rear on a 75-76F. It is a powerful brake, might be more than you need.

[super pasty white guy]

Well, there you go.   

[JZEROE]

Well, the only thing worse than not enough rear brake is not enough. Does anyone have experience dumbing down the rear? I don't want comstars, but I need more in the back. Could I use a less powerful MC?

[HavocTurbo]

Why don't you just adjust the pedal down to avoid over pressure.

If it works amazingly well (too well) then slide the pedal down so you aren't fully engaging the MC. That way you can stand on it in an emergency but still be able to keep it mild-mannered.

[Alan F.]

Why don't you just adjust the pedal down to avoid over pressure.

If it works amazingly well (too well) then slide the pedal down so you aren't fully engaging the MC. That way you can stand on it in an emergency but still be able to keep it mild-mannered.

or simply don't bleed it all that well, you can bleed it some then ride, bleed a little more and ride.....until you've got it just where you want it.

[HavocTurbo]

Why don't you just adjust the pedal down to avoid over pressure.

If it works amazingly well (too well) then slide the pedal down so you aren't fully engaging the MC. That way you can stand on it in an emergency but still be able to keep it mild-mannered.

or simply don't bleed it all that well, you can bleed it some then ride, bleed a little more and ride.....until you've got it just where you want it.

I don't know how I'd feel with a hydro system that had air in it. You can work a hydro system all day long at 1200+ psi with no real issues. Max I've ever seen an air application run was 500psi in steel pipes for industrial uses only. Don't go near it when it pops either.

Just my fear though.

[lordmoonpie]

For rear drum brake on a honda - this is what you need :-)
Cast in the same factory that cast the parts for the MV Agusta race bikes of the 60's/70's in Italy....these are beautiful!

http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/brakes/honda-cr750-works-replica-rear-brake/prod_198.html

[voxonda]

For rear drum brake on a honda - this is what you need :-)
Cast in the same factory that cast the parts for the MV Agusta race bikes of the 60's/70's in Italy....these are beautiful!

http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/brakes/honda-cr750-works-replica-rear-brake/prod_198.html

YeaH, but at a price!! I would have like to have someone to provide me with enough sources. Well have to do with my CB750 rear hub.