Topic: Oil Tank Washer

[Bob Wessner]

Changed oil on the 750 a week or so ago. Ever since, have had an annoying little leak from the oil tank drain plug. Snugged it once, but still weeps. Drained it today and figured the washer (aluminum, not sure that is correct material?) was pretty mangled and not sealing. Temporarily, I used a fiber washer until I finish putting together a little order of other bits and pieces I need. How will the fiber washer hold up, will it lose compression/tension? Again, it's just a temporary measure.

[eldar]

Well as oil heats up, you know it gets thinner. that could increase its absorbtion into the fiber and cause a sssllllooowwwwwww leak. drip.......................................drip...............................drip
you get the idea.
Maybe I am wrong, but get a washer that is surrounded by rubber. kinda like a rubber coated steel washer. The inner part of the washer is not coated. I guess just look at a wheel. Inside is steel and outside rubber, well the steel makes up the while washer but rubber coats the outside 3/4ths or so.

I used one on my pan since I was a dumbass and cracked it.  no leaks at all.

If you have a Napa or some place like that, you should be able to get one. As long as you do not tear the rubber, they are completely reuseable.

[dpen]

Best thing for any bolt associated with oil (sump plug, oil filter etc) is a copper washer.
Just be a bit careful when you do them up as the washer does compress a bit.

[Bob Wessner]

Thanks, I tried to find a copper washer, but no luck so far. I have one for the oil pan (same bolt size actually) but the profile was OK for the flat surface of the pan, but not the neck of the oil tank.

[Alan F.]

Get the aluminium ones from the dealer they're fairly cheap, the same washer is used for the oil tank drain, the connection of both oil hoses to the tank, and the oil pan drain bolt down below. Remember to use a torque wrench set propperly and you'll get a good seal.

[Buffo]

I also like the steel washer with the rubber center...thats what I use

[Bob Wessner]

Get the aluminium ones from the dealer they're fairly cheap

Thanks for verifying they are aluminum. I noticed they are all the same part. They are "on the list."

[Terry in Australia]

Bob, get some "plumbers thread tape" and wrap the threads, and it'll never leak again. Same for your sump plug. Cheers, Terry.

[Bob Wessner]

Bob, get some "plumbers thread tape" and wrap the threads

Interesting idea, funny you should mention it, just did a bout of plumming with the stuff on our upstairs bath... leaky faucet. So, the hot oil won't adversely affect the teflon tape??

[Quail "Owner of the comfortable k8"]

No more than your bacon affects your Teflon frying pan.  If it gets over 480 degrees you will be more concerned with the flames coming out around your legs than that tape.

[MRieck]

I use it(teflon tape) on the main galley pressure sendesr as well as Terry's oil pressure gauge.

[Bob Wessner]

No more than your bacon affects your Teflon frying pan.

Wasn't sure all Teflon was created equal.

[Terry in Australia]

Sorry Bob, my defence computer fell over for a couple of hours, but yeah, Teflon tape is fine. I like the softer sticky stuff, it seems to wrap the threads better.

Make sure you wrap them in the same direction that you're gonna thread them into your tank, or else it'll try to unwrap itself. Cheers, Terry.

[Jonesy]

You might get lucky as some well-stocked hardware stores have oil drain plug sealing washers. The local hardware near me has all kinds of 'em.

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Jonesy, can you send me a handful? I've never been able to find any, anywhere! Cheers, Terry.

[Bob Wessner]

I gave the Teflon tape idea some more thought. I guess being a worry wart, wonder what the chances are that shreds of it might work their way into the oil tank and supply? The stuff is pretty delicate, and in plumbing is usually installed once, not to be removed for years, if not a decade or so. In the oil tank situation, you regularly remove and reinsert the bolt and shreds of it could come loose in the process. In addition, in plumbing its generally not exposed to temps much higher than 120 F, whereas in the oil tank, it could be 180-200 F making it that much more limp, delicate and easily shredded.    

[Terry in Australia]

Up to you mate, it's good that you worry about doing things the right way so I won't try to dissuade you, it's your bike mate.

All I can say is that I have used teflon tape for many years with no problems, as do many other riders/mechanics I know. Cheers, Terry.

[dpen]

Go with the teflon tape. Don't go overboard & mummify the bolt, just one layer will do.
As Terry mentioned, be sure to wrap it on in the right direction.
Hold the bolt upright in front of you & wind the tape on clockwise, that way it's following the thread.

[Jonesy]

Hey Jonesy, can you send me a handful? I've never been able to find any, anywhere! Cheers, Terry.

Sure! Any particular size in mind? I can scout out what they have and see if something will work for ya....

[dusterdude]

bob,you have warts?

[Bob Wessner]

They're probably the least of my problems. 

[dusterdude]

yea,i know what your main problem is......carbs!!!!!

[Bob Wessner]

Actually, I finally got the damn things sorted out. Ran great today, no leaky carb AND, as a bonus, fixed my squealing front brake. You can rationalize a lot of things riding a "vintage" bike, but the squealing brake made it sound like an old piece of crap.

[dusterdude]

what did you do to fix your squeal problem.

[Bob Wessner]

what did you do to fix your squeal problem.

Pulled the front wheel, split the caliper, removed the fixed puck, lightly put pressure on the brake lever and eased out the puck on the piston side enough to grab it. Found both glazed, maybe didn't clean the rotor well enough back when I rebuilt everyting. I roughed up the puck faces and removed the glaze. Used 150 grit on the rotor followed by some 400 and made sure it was good and clean. Used high temp brake grease behind the pucks and the edges, just don't get near the pad material, reinstalled everything (used a C-clamp to ease the piston puck back in). It now stops like the dickens and does it silently. It only took about 45 minutes to an hour. You get faster after you do things twice..or more.