Author Topic: my bike (Read 3558 times)

Darkwaterdevil · « **on:** September 06, 2008, 02:46:49 PM »

I bought this bike for 250$. When i got it the front Master cylender (sp*) was seized and still is. Also it would only run on choke. I started to work on the carbs, cleaning them and put them back on. That didnt seem to help anything. i noticed that one of the sparkplug wires were not all the way on and the plugs were old so i changed them and pushed the wires on all the way. I also put in some in tank carb cleaner in. made to treat 20 gal. Now it is running without the choke but its running realy hot i think its the fact that there is too much carb cleaner (jet fuel) in there. Also when i was doing the work on the carbs i noticed a small gas leak through one of the patches (jb weld from a previous owner) in the tank. so i grinded that off and there were huge holes. I welded them up the best i could and then put in some in tank sealer and then bondoed the tank and painted it. Also removed the Honda Emblems. any comments or help would be great

martino1972 · « **Reply #1 on:** September 06, 2008, 03:01:29 PM »

thats a 1980 cb650?

??

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2008, 03:05:53 PM »

its a 1980 cb650c

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2008, 08:05:10 PM »

From what i have read about the custom it came stock with a 4-4 exaust so seeing that it has a 4-1 could that cause the overheating and the choke problem?

masonryman · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2008, 09:01:45 PM »

sounds like it is running lean, I like to take a syringe and inject toilet bowl cleaner in all the air and fuel passages inside the carbs then blow compressed air through the same passages

Hush · « **Reply #5 on:** September 07, 2008, 03:38:59 AM »

Sounds like you have increased the octane rating by that additive in your tank.
Dunp that and try a fresh tank full, that might cure your overheating and it can't hurt.

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #6 on:** September 07, 2008, 04:58:42 AM »

no the new headers wouldnt do it?

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #7 on:** September 07, 2008, 11:27:26 AM »

Does anyone know what the normal operating temp of the 1980 cb650c is??? one side is at 250 and the other is at 350 one spot is at 400

kslrr · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2008, 12:17:47 PM »

These temps you list, are they header temps or head temps.

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2008, 12:19:36 PM »

head the header is 450-500

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #10 on:** September 07, 2008, 01:27:46 PM »

i have now gotten my RPMs down from 4-5k at idle to 3k but if they go any lower it stalls

kslrr · « **Reply #11 on:** September 07, 2008, 05:57:37 PM »

It sounds like your carb slow/idle circuits are clogged. And your head temps (if it is possible to get an accurate reading) around 250 could be right, 400 is too hot.

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #12 on:** September 07, 2008, 06:48:55 PM »

its one of the lazer infered temp sensors and 3 cylinders read about 250 and only one reads high

Hush · « **Reply #13 on:** September 08, 2008, 03:44:30 AM »

Sounds like it's seriously time to do the unthinkable.....yes you all guessed it, remove the carbs and clean out all them pesky tunnels and channels.
If you can't get the bike down to 1000rpm idle or less then slow idle jets sound like they are blocked.

troppo · « **Reply #14 on:** September 08, 2008, 03:47:57 AM »

Quote from: Hush on September 08, 2008, 03:44:30 AM

Sounds like it's seriously time to do the unthinkable.....yes you all guessed it, remove the carbs and clean out all them pesky tunnels and channels.
If you can't get the bike down to 1000rpm idle or less then slow idle jets sound like they are blocked.

Hush your mouth hush............
Thems mighty strong words

Go to the dark side luke

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #15 on:** September 08, 2008, 04:19:17 AM »

i have already done this with the carbs its posible i missed something but i think i got everything

my78k · « **Reply #16 on:** September 08, 2008, 07:36:28 AM »

Did you pull out the slow jets and clean them individually and make sure you could see light through them? I am not familiar with those carbs at all but I do know that I had to clean my 750's carbs 3 times before I got them right. Carb cleaner, compressed air and a strand of copper wire (and a six pack) were all required in order to get them properly un-gunked!

Dennis

Darkwaterdevil · « **Reply #17 on:** September 09, 2008, 02:34:38 PM »

i didnt pull them right out but i seen fluid go through all jets and holes

martino1972 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 09, 2008, 02:36:17 PM »

sorry dude,but you will have to pull those slow jets,just no way you can clean them and the orfices behind there good without pulling them..
so many of us have had to do it twice to get it good,it;s a bummer,i know,but it's the only way...

Joel · « **Reply #19 on:** September 09, 2008, 02:59:46 PM »

Quote from: my78k on September 08, 2008, 07:36:28 AM

Did you pull out the slow jets and clean them individually and make sure you could see light through them? I am not familiar with those carbs at all but I do know that I had to clean my 750's carbs 3 times before I got them right. Carb cleaner, compressed air and a strand of copper wire (and a six pack) were all required in order to get them properly un-gunked!

Dennis

What kind of 6-pack works best?

phactory · « **Reply #20 on:** September 09, 2008, 03:09:54 PM »

Dennis,

You should get yourself this set of jet reamers. MUCH better than copper wire!

http://1800vw.bizhosting.com/carb_jet_reamers.html

Phil

Quote from: my78k on September 08, 2008, 07:36:28 AM

Did you pull out the slow jets and clean them individually and make sure you could see light through them? I am not familiar with those carbs at all but I do know that I had to clean my 750's carbs 3 times before I got them right. Carb cleaner, compressed air and a strand of copper wire (and a six pack) were all required in order to get them properly un-gunked!

Dennis

my78k · « **Reply #21 on:** September 09, 2008, 05:09:17 PM »

Well, as a general rule I steer clear of anything with the name "reamer" in it! (lol) besides those cost $45 plus shipping....that's alot of Moosehead! Coincidentally, that by the way is the 6 pack that works best...

Actually I am sure those reamers would work far better and faster than the copper wire but I found that even when serioulsy gunked up as long as you give it a good soaking first they came clean pretty quick with the compressed air. I barely needed the copper wire but it was more so to fish or push out any little particles that may be stuck in there.

Dennis

phactory · « **Reply #22 on:** September 09, 2008, 05:29:32 PM »

Dennis,

To each his own, but copper wire doesn't clean anywhere near as good as these. I have had my set for a long time and they have DEFINITELY been worth the investment!

Phil

Quote from: my78k on September 09, 2008, 05:09:17 PM

Well, as a general rule I steer clear of anything with the name "reamer" in it! (lol) besides those cost $45 plus shipping....that's alot of Moosehead! Coincidentally, that by the way is the 6 pack that works best...

Actually I am sure those reamers would work far better and faster than the copper wire but I found that even when serioulsy gunked up as long as you give it a good soaking first they came clean pretty quick with the compressed air. I barely needed the copper wire but it was more so to fish or push out any little particles that may be stuck in there.

Dennis

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Author Topic: my bike (Read 3558 times)

Darkwaterdevil

martino1972

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

masonryman

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

troppo

Darkwaterdevil

Darkwaterdevil

martino1972