Ok guys, while that little feller with those small hands was deciding he'd done a good job with the design and plug locations - why the heck didn't he design a socket to torque them?
I have the stock tool kit wrench and use it to get them started. It's when I want to torque them to 14 lbs/feet that I have a heck of a time getting my thin-wall, deep-well, 18mm sparkplug socket on the plugs - and then getting that socket off when the extention pulls out and you're left with a deep-well burried deep in the head where there is nothing to grab onto for removal - that's really sweet!
Lastly is the joy of getting my big, fat hands in there enough to aim that male/female wire end onto the plug when replacing the wires to the #2 and # 3 plugs.
I don't have kids around anymore so I'm stuck with getting them in they myself.
I'm just relieved that you guys are sharing the pain with me. Now where is that little engineer?
Gordon
First point: I think if you use a 1/2 drive deepwell with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, and grind the corners down so it doesn't hang up on the head casting, you won't have any trouble pulling it out as it sticks out further, and that's even with a spark plug cushion shoved into the deep well.
Second: this may cause an uproar, but I don't worry about the torque. You run the new plug in til you feel it bottom, then you give it a 1/4 turn to crush the ceiling washer, and you're done.
If you have to torque it, you could use my tool set up, with the extension and the floppy joint, and with trial and error you could determine how much torque at an angle equals the torque you are looking for straight on. I'll bet it's close to the 1/4 turn method.
In fact I think I'll test it when I get a chance.
