Topic: What type of media do I use on engines?

[inline4]

My new blasting cabinet will be delivered Monday.  I got it for $279 shipped to my garage. This weekend I need to buy some media. I have some #8 glass beads as well as some Black Beauty, both of which I know NOT to use on engines.
The alternatives are walnut shells and soda.
Do you guys prefer one over the other to clean engine cases, heads, cylinders, etc?
I can now put my big ass compressor to use for something more that tire inflation and blowing parts dry.

[fuzzybutt]

not sure what size it was but i've always used glass bead for motors. be very VERY sure you take all bolts/nuts off and out before glass beading as those little beads will really make the nuts and bolts hang up really bad. dont ask me how i know

[inline4]

Not only that fb, but it took me 3 or 4 trys to get all the beads out of the screw/bolt holes.
In the beginning you think you have done a magnificent job of cleaning everything out; then you go to bolt everything back together again and the bolts/screws won't tighten.
Grab a can of brake or carb cleaner and spray in into the holes. Then all this gritty crap goes flying out when you hit them with a shot of compressed air.
 This is how I learned NOT to use glass beads, especially on a head or engine cases.

[Steve F]

Put the engine back together all dirty and grungy, THEN blast it assembled with plastic media after you cover the intakes and exhausts and all the rubber shaft seal areas.  I know you probably won't get an assembled engine into your new blaster cabinet, but I definately won't use glass beads on an engine or engine parts.  I used glass beads ONCE on the valve cover (Just the valve cover), and I was finding grit in the holes even after an ultrasonic bath and 30 minutes worth of flushing and compressed air........never again.

[inline4]

[quote ........never again.
[/quote]
 
Ditto!

[rbmgf7]

what are the specs on that cabinet? where'd you get it? that's not a bad deal

i've heard Aluminum oxide is great if you want and etched finish for paint (sand is fine but I wouldn't recommend using a ceramic based media on a diassabled engine). If you want to just clean, walnut or corn cob is good. If you want a matte finish, glass will do.

i typically blast the cases and avoid the valve cover (if i want to polish it). on a disassembled engine, buy new hardware for the majority of the threads (6mmx10). bolt them down until they seal the entire hole. any mating surfaces, e.g. cyl. head chamber face, top of the cylinder jugs, cut a piece of cardboard to the shape and hot glue it to seal it. make it tight and try to avoid that area when blasting.

[mcuozzo]

Hey rbmgf7,

You can get a similar (same?) cabinet from harbor freight - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93608 .

Hopefully you are close to a HF store.  They have 7 in your state.  And if you wait for a sale you can get it for $199.

I have it.  It works great.  I use it to soda blast and also with coal slag.  Wish it was bigger, but anything bigger starts getting very $$$.

I'm thinking of picking up another one so I don't have to waste time switching media.

And to the original topic, I think that soda is the best media to blast/clean an engine.

Good luck!

[MRieck]

I have used glass bead hundreds of times on heads, cylinders and cases. Screw in old bolts into all the threaded holes prior to blasting and you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation.

[okie]

I agree with MRieck.  Any cleanup problem is minimal compared to the benefit.  Glass beads on brake hubs, 400 grit sandpaper, 1000 grit sandpaper, Mother's metal polish(by hand only) and you'll have hubs that look like they did back in '72 when they were new.  I can't imagine working on these old bikes without my Harbor Freight cabinet.

[inline4]

what are the specs on that cabinet? where'd you get it? that's not a bad deal

I got it from TP Tools' ebay store. They had it listed there for $20 less
than they did on the TP website.
They currently have the same cabinet on ebay for $249. Still not a bad deal.
I've used TP Tools for several purchases and they are a good company to deal with.
http://www.tptools.com/p/427,54_770-Mini-Cab-Abrasive-Blasting-Cabinet.html

[JAG]

When I got my head and block media blasted, the guy used plastic- which had and can be recycled. He said you can take the paint off of a Coca~Cola Can without denting the aluminum, and thought that glass would be too abrasive on the soft aluminum. Also like I said you can use it over and over again..

Just my 2 Cents..

[Steve F]

When I got my head and block media blasted, the guy used plastic- which had and can be recycled. He said you can take the paint off of a Coca~Cola Can without denting the aluminum, and thought that glass would be too abrasive on the soft aluminum. Also like I said you can use it over and over again..

Just my 2 Cents..

That's exactly what I did, and was really, really happy with the results, and it's non abrasive.  Takes all (most) of the crap off, won't deform even the thinnest of metal parts, easy to clean up.  I have to point out that the plastic media is only intended to remove old paint and gunk, but won't work very well at taking off old gasket sealer and carbon buildup and the really hard baked-on crap.  If you're interested in only clear-coating (instead of painting) over the blasted cases, then glass beads would be better in order to give you the satin sheen that hides all the die-casting marks in the metal.