Topic: CB350Four Oil filter bolt removal

[rude]

Can anyone offer ideas on removing a very tight oil filter bolt, the engine is cold and old, I have tried a three foot pipe on the socket spanner only to start burring the bolt head. Looking at the on line parts fiche shows this is not just a straight through bolt to the crankcase(?), Do I drill it (the bolt head) out or cut it off? what strife can I get into? I'm still assesing the worth of restoring this bike, a 72 model. Many thanks for your help from the land of Oz

[mark]

whole bunch of ideas here:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40857.0


Good luck.

[rude]

Mark, Thanks for the link, the pictures helped alot, good to see I'm not alone! I can feel a modification coming on (once I get it off!!). cheers

[kghost]

After I round the bolt off I weld a bigger nut on them.

If you didn't see it in the link....Wacking them with a hammer on the bolt head sometimes jars them loose.

[mark]

I guess I've been lucky so far. My fairly fresh SnapOn socket and a long ratchet have removed the bolt from both engines. I put it back with the toolkit wrench. Kinda hard to overtighten with a 5" long open-end.

After I round the bolt off I weld a bigger nut on them. .....

I'd probably try that if the socket didn't work.


Happy trails.

[troppo]

Unless you want to keep it bone stock.
Cut it off with a grinder and go with a spin on filter adapter (terryinaus doe a great one).
Cheaper filter changes and easier too.....

[Raul CB750K1]

When trying to remove the oil filter bolt with a box-head wrench, I could felt the head starting to distort. But when I used an hexagonal socket, it worked well.

Box-head are suppoused to be better as the apply the force on the sides of the nut, not the corners. But for the oil bolt, a fit socket -hexagonal-is the best option. And the same goes for the valve inspection caps. A box socket, and a slight-but-firm blow of the handle -like if it was an impact wrench- works well. Common sense to start from light blows and gradually increase the force to feel whether the head is being damaged or not.

[kghost]

When trying to remove the oil filter bolt with a box-head wrench, I could felt the head starting to distort. But when I used an hexagonal socket, it worked well.

Box-head are suppoused to be better as the apply the force on the sides of the nut, not the corners. But for the oil bolt, a fit socket -hexagonal-is the best option. And the same goes for the valve inspection caps. A box socket, and a slight-but-firm blow of the handle -like if it was an impact wrench- works well. Common sense to start from light blows and gradually increase the force to feel whether the head is being damaged or not.

6 point not 12 point.

Thats the key as Raul said.

[WFO]

Try an impact with a six point socket on it if the bolt head isn't to far gone

[rude]

Well I'm at my wits end with this, after working through the degrees of destruction and ruining a 12mm 6 point socket the 12mm bolt head is now round, next step is to attempt to weld a large nut over the round 12mm and exert maximum torque.............I think I will ruin the housing as this bolt is stuck fast, though the housing has rotated a couple of degrees?

In the thread offered below an after market screw in oil filter was shown, are these good things? Can someone offer a contact for the purchase of one?

[bistromath]

Terry in Australia (a member of this board) makes good ones. I'm sure he'll post in here, or you can PM him.

Also, use penetrating oil or a 50/50 ATF/acetone mixture to loosen it up for a few days. And you can try heating it with a torch and letting it cool, to break corrosion free. Keep with it, you'll get it out.

[Trevor from Warragul]

On my 350/4 I cut a slot in the head of the bolt & used an impact screwdriver.

[schneider419]

if it is the one that came on the bike, the hex is small. cut the head off with a cut off wheel, then with the outer case assy. off take a small pipe wrench etc. and take the rest of the bolt off. then get on line and just get one with a larger head on it. when you put it on, put a little high temp neverseize under the head. that will make it much easier next time

[Bodi]

The bolt freezes to the housing, not the motor. The motor end is in the oil system and will be absolutely perfect and free. The bit under the head outside the housing O-ring gets water in and corrodes solid. Remember some antiseize there when you finally get yours off and a new one on, if you don't go for a spin-on.

[Tim in Ohio]

..........I think I will ruin the housing as this bolt is stuck fast, though the housing has rotated a couple of degrees?......"

I would not assume this necessarily.  That filter will begin to rotate as the bolt moves even for those of us lucky enough to remove the oil filter housing without any of the mayhem. 

[rude]

Thanks for the advice and encouragement, the offending bolt was removed last night using a combination of precision tools being a dremmel, hacksaw, cold chisel and hammer. Destroyed the bolt head and mucked the casing up. Not really amazing that the bolt head and casing fused together as the washer that is specified to go between them was missing, thanks to dodgy and co.
Any suggestions re sourcing a spin on replacement oil filter? I've not been able to make the contact as offered in the earlier post

[mike1111]

I had the same problem with my old K5.  After rounding the filter bolt completely, I found a large nut with an I.D. slightly smaller than the filter bolt O.D., tapped it on with a hammer and finally tack welded it on. It came right off.  Also, I have a couple of spare filter bolts if you need.   Mike