Author Topic: removing oil filter bolt (w/o power tools) (Read 7946 times)

UnCrash · « **Reply #25 on:** September 20, 2008, 07:23:37 PM »

Quote

Quote from: UnCrash on Today at 11:57:36 am
My first oil change on my 750......

I resorted to power tools in the end.

A little extreme? I just dremeled the head of and pulled the housing off over then put vise grips on the bolt. No damage to the filter housing. Replaced it with one of the 17mm ones.

I was doing a complete teardown to frame and had help waiting around to pull the motor.

I started with the patient route but it was frozen solid, and I was wasting time. Plus I have a spare housing and new bolt in the garage.

This is where impatience, powertools, and backup spare parts leads you.

Accolay · « **Reply #26 on:** September 20, 2008, 08:12:57 PM »

I couldn't get mine off either. I went to Home Depot and got a 3 ft with 1in diameter pipe from the plumbing section that fit over my ratchet handle and with a lot of swearing it came right off.

I had to order another bolt for it since the head on this one was all messed up. Next oil change it will be installed.

jason teamshralp · « **Reply #27 on:** September 21, 2008, 12:10:23 AM »

everyone remember with these new 17mm bolts you have more of a chance to over do it. Honda probably made the original a 12mm for that same reason.

also try the engine warm to get the bolt off, but remember that will make the head of the bolt softer.

This is my favorite method ever...

Soos · « **Reply #28 on:** September 21, 2008, 12:13:14 AM »

Quote from: jason teamshralp on September 21, 2008, 12:10:23 AM

everyone remember with these new 17mm bolts you have more of a chance to over do it. Honda probably made the original a 12mm for that same reason.

also try the engine warm to get the bolt off, but remember that will make the head of the bolt softer.

This is my favorite method ever...

HAHAHAHHAHAHAA...

You have a good selection of hammers as well dontcha?

It is not the road, but the destination that matters.

l8r

Johnie · « **Reply #29 on:** September 21, 2008, 06:31:40 AM »

I am sure as you were cutting that filter housing off you had a great deal of satisfaction for sure...

matt400f · « **Reply #30 on:** September 23, 2008, 10:46:01 AM »

I haven't gotten the bolt off yet... more problems with the bike running rich right now - BUT I'm going to try this weekend some more!

mark · « **Reply #31 on:** September 23, 2008, 11:07:51 AM »

Quote from: jason teamshralp on September 21, 2008, 12:10:23 AM

everyone remember with these new 17mm bolts you have more of a chance to over do it. Honda probably made the original a 12mm for that same reason.

also try the engine warm to get the bolt off, but remember that will make the head of the bolt softer.

This is my favorite method ever...

Quote from: UnCrash on September 20, 2008, 07:23:37 PM

My first oil change on my 750......
I resorted to power tools in the end.
I was doing a complete teardown to frame and had help waiting around to pull the motor.
I started with the patient route but it was frozen solid, and I was wasting time. Plus I have a spare housing and new bolt in the garage.
This is where impatience, powertools, and backup spare parts leads you.

I like it. I'll have to remember that one.......

... In case welding a big nut on there and zapping it with the impact doesn't work. I have also found that a professional-quality tool (i.e. Snap-On) can often remove a battered bolt when others fail.

Installation tip: It's pretty hard to overtighten the bolt with the toolkit wrench.

Happy trails.

WFO · « **Reply #32 on:** September 23, 2008, 12:23:47 PM »

I guess the next step was dynamite

mystic_1 · « **Reply #33 on:** September 23, 2008, 04:02:21 PM »

Nah, don't be silly.

Detcord would be the next step

mystic_1

MoTo-BunnY · « **Reply #34 on:** September 23, 2008, 04:11:28 PM »

wOw! I can't believe on how hard some of these oil bolts looked to remove - maybe the APO used that old hillbilly adage of "torque 'er down 'till it strips and then back 'er off, a quarter turn" to come up with torque values. . . lol

Maybe try one of these? (that's a 26mm acorn!)

Drewery · « **Reply #35 on:** October 01, 2008, 04:22:25 PM »

I remember having the same problem (once!) with a 17 mil bolt and the mechanic who sawed it off for me told me, the reason Honda used a 12 mil was so that people could NOT reef them on too hard. He said he was constanly cutting off 17 mils so easy, tiger.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #36 on:** October 01, 2008, 10:54:11 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on September 23, 2008, 04:02:21 PM

Nah, don't be silly.

Detcord would be the next step

mystic_1

Yeah, I reckon I'd use a CE primer, that'll crack the case of an M26 grenade OK, I think detcord's probably better for removing carbs from 35 year old rubbers, or loosening rusty header bolts?

goon 1492 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 02, 2008, 09:16:33 AM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on October 01, 2008, 10:54:11 PM

Quote from: mystic_1 on September 23, 2008, 04:02:21 PM
Nah, don't be silly.

Detcord would be the next step

mystic_1

Yeah, I reckon I'd use a CE primer, that'll crack the case of an M26 grenade OK, I think detcord's probably better for removing carbs from 35 year old rubbers, or loosening rusty header bolts?

Ya better be quick on yer feet thought or you'll be like those cats tryin to set off 4,5,or 10inch mortars on the fourth of july blowin their faces off cause they used a lighter instead of electric firing, I would rather use blasting cap, at least with one end not capped you could use it as a torch

or cap it and away we go

and then use the extrsa to blow up a couple of tree stumps.

Johnie · « **Reply #38 on:** October 02, 2008, 09:31:04 AM »

Anyone ever put anti-seeze on the filter bolt threads?

mystic_1 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 02, 2008, 10:12:39 AM »

Quote from: Johnie on October 02, 2008, 09:31:04 AM

Anyone ever put anti-seeze on the filter bolt threads?

I never have but it's probably not a bad idea. However the threads sit in oil full-time so I'd think it'd be better to put the anti-sieze on the bolt head flange where it contacts the filter housing. Oh, and don't over-tighten the bolt

mystic_1

WFO · « **Reply #40 on:** October 02, 2008, 01:27:44 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on October 02, 2008, 10:12:39 AM

Quote from: Johnie on October 02, 2008, 09:31:04 AM
Anyone ever put anti-seeze on the filter bolt threads?

I never have but it's probably not a bad idea. However the threads sit in oil full-time so I'd think it'd be better to put the anti-sieze on the bolt head flange where it contacts the filter housing. Oh, and don't over-tighten the bolt

mystic_1

Ya you would think just snugging it up to flatten out that oring should be enough anymore than that is a waste of time and this thread proves it.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #41 on:** October 03, 2008, 04:58:09 AM »

I wouldn't use anti-sieze anywhere inside an engine, as the hot oil would probably wash it out, and it may end up causing clutch slip. Cheers, Terry.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #42 on:** October 03, 2008, 06:32:25 AM »

Terry that thing in your avatar made me pee alittle

troppo · « **Reply #43 on:** October 03, 2008, 06:34:39 AM »

Quote from: goon 1492 on October 03, 2008, 06:32:25 AM

Terry that thing in your avatar made me pee alittle

Yeah, anything with four ears AND a moustache just isnt natural

snipcod · « **Reply #44 on:** October 03, 2008, 07:09:18 AM »

Man I know how ya feel, I just ween through that about a week ago. What I did was to grind it flat then make a cross and use a cold chisel with a hammer.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=41185.0

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #45 on:** October 03, 2008, 05:49:54 PM »

Quote from: troppo on October 03, 2008, 06:34:39 AM

Quote from: goon 1492 on October 03, 2008, 06:32:25 AM
Terry that thing in your avatar made me pee alittle

Yeah, anything with four ears AND a moustache just isnt natural

Don't tell the wife mate, she friggin' loves me!

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Author Topic: removing oil filter bolt (w/o power tools) (Read 7946 times)

matt400f

troppo