Author Topic: 74' cb750 - my rat bike (Read 69029 times)

dagersh · « **Reply #25 on:** October 20, 2008, 03:02:29 PM »

DP,

The bike looks awesome, nice and tight. You should set off the almond with some sweet black pinstripping, following the curves of the fenders. Sort of like the Vintage BMW's and Moto Guzzi Ambo/Eldo's.

Enjoy!!!

Gersh

dp2275 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 20, 2008, 03:11:38 PM »

Quote from: Johnny5 on October 20, 2008, 12:37:28 PM

Bike is looking rad. Personally, I dig the shorter fender on what you got going on this bike. Love the white.

Thanks! Its definently turning out alot better than i expected. i am going to go with the shorter fender..its split about 50/50 with who likes what...but im the one that will be ridin' her.

ive also decided that ill color match the fenders to the tank. i banged all the dents out of the front fender and i need to lay a skim coat of filler on her to smooth it all out (hope bondo sticks to chrome decent..)

Quote from: KB02 on October 20, 2008, 10:02:18 AM

Dyna-S from Z1 Enterprizes. Never mess with points again.

id absolutely love to but im on a 'college kid budget'...aka, peanuts!

id go ahead and pick up the electronic ignition if i wasnt currently having coil problems. new coils AND the dyna s would break the bank right now. i really shouldve fired these coils before i spent the money and time on installing new plug wires..i tested the resistance and they checked out fine but im definently getting a weak spark on one cylinder.

anyone know the difference between our 'honda' dual output coils and 'harley' dual output coils? im going to pick up a set of universal 3ohm coils..most likely the honda nighthawk style with removable splice caps as they are cheap and should give a hotter spark ....

Quote from: dagersh on October 20, 2008, 03:02:29 PM

The bike looks awesome, nice and tight. You should set off the almond with some sweet black pinstripping, following the curves of the fenders. Sort of like the Vintage BMW's and Moto Guzzi Ambo/Eldo's.

thanks for the compliments! i would like to add some contrast to the paint. i think ill photoshop a few ideas when she is closer to finished!! i plan on finding a set of used honda tank emblems that are ratty looking and having them bead blasted. theyll be finished off with a coat of semi gloss black to match the accents.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #27 on:** October 20, 2008, 04:16:23 PM »

Quote from: dp2275 on October 20, 2008, 03:11:38 PM

Quote from: Johnny5 on October 20, 2008, 12:37:28 PM
Bike is looking rad. Personally, I dig the shorter fender on what you got going on this bike. Love the white.

Thanks! Its definently turning out alot better than i expected. i am going to go with the shorter fender..its split about 50/50 with who likes what...but im the one that will be ridin' her.

ive also decided that ill color match the fenders to the tank. i banged all the dents out of the front fender and i need to lay a skim coat of filler on her to smooth it all out (hope bondo sticks to chrome decent..)

Quote from: KB02 on October 20, 2008, 10:02:18 AM
Dyna-S from Z1 Enterprizes. Never mess with points again.

id absolutely love to but im on a 'college kid budget'...aka, peanuts!

id go ahead and pick up the electronic ignition if i wasnt currently having coil problems. new coils AND the dyna s would break the bank right now. i really shouldve fired these coils before i spent the money and time on installing new plug wires..i tested the resistance and they checked out fine but im definently getting a weak spark on one cylinder.

anyone know the difference between our 'honda' dual output coils and 'harley' dual output coils? im going to pick up a set of universal 3ohm coils..most likely the honda nighthawk style with removable splice caps as they are cheap and should give a hotter spark ....

Quote from: dagersh on October 20, 2008, 03:02:29 PM
The bike looks awesome, nice and tight. You should set off the almond with some sweet black pinstripping, following the curves of the fenders. Sort of like the Vintage BMW's and Moto Guzzi Ambo/Eldo's.

thanks for the compliments! i would like to add some contrast to the paint. i think ill photoshop a few ideas when she is closer to finished!! i plan on finding a set of used honda tank emblems that are ratty looking and having them bead blasted. theyll be finished off with a coat of semi gloss black to match the accents.

Bondo should stick to chrome as long as it's roughed up.

What paint did you use for the white?

dp2275 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 20, 2008, 04:34:47 PM »

Quote from: Johnny5 on October 20, 2008, 04:16:23 PM

Bondo should stick to chrome as long as it's roughed up.

What paint did you use for the white?

its 'almond' rustoleum rattle can

..the paint isnt too shiny and looks more like a semi gloss. works great for the classic look!

i blocked the tank out to 320 and then sprayed it. ive got the guns and experience to spray a base/clear, but ive also got less than a grand into the bike including purchase price so i didnt really wanna drop a few hundred and alot of time on decent paint work. i have some saphireblau metallic (greenish silver) left over from when i painted my bmw..i was going to use that but decided to go with the almond as it gives it more of a classic feel.

Johnny5 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 20, 2008, 04:53:53 PM »

It definitely turned out nice.

dp2275 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 02, 2008, 07:54:50 PM »

new progress...

makeshift fuel tank

manometer

dp2275 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 26, 2008, 03:20:44 PM »

anyone know where i can get shortened cables?

-i need a speedo cable that is 31" (stock is listed at 37"?)
-need a throttle cable that is 30" (current is 36")

USN20 · « **Reply #32 on:** November 27, 2008, 08:11:56 AM »

Motion Pro can make custom cables to your length requirements.

http://motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/cables/

http://motionpro.com/custom/index.php

bradj · « **Reply #33 on:** November 28, 2008, 01:24:10 AM »

is that a e30 hood what were is your bemmer I had 22 of them andI in western md mabe I can help brad

dp2275 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 28, 2008, 10:05:31 AM »

Quote

Motion Pro can make custom cables to your length requirements.

thanks! ill check them out!

Quote

is that a e30 hood what were is your bemmer I had 22 of them andI in western md mabe I can help brad

yup, thats the hood off my e30.

352whp @ 18psi...in a sub-2500lb car!

current state: getting 5lug swap using e36 parts. had to roll the #$%* outta the fenders as ill be running staggered dsII's (17x7.5f-17x8.5r) that are powdercoated gloss black. plan on using a 255 rear tire so maybe i can get some traction.

dp2275 · « **Reply #35 on:** December 25, 2008, 04:33:51 PM »

my new lift..

not too much has changed but i did get some work done today finally..

fitted a tailight and licensplate bracket (ill finish it when i get a plate..nothing for mockup currently)

one of the issues i was having is that the stock front fender sat about 2-3" above the tire..and looked like a 4x4. soooo, i cut the mounts off, sectioned out 1.5" and welded it back together so it hugs the tire with around 1/2" clearance.. ive gotta shorten the support rods yet, but you get the idea.

and my favorite part of the afternoon...exhaust work

i cut the stock mufflers off but kept the front section of the pipes..i mocked it up and clamped the pipes together and then welded reinforcment rods between them. the result is excellent sounding/looking straight pipes..

dp2275 · « **Reply #36 on:** December 28, 2008, 11:11:28 AM »

shortened the support rods and painted them & the underside of the fender..

final fender installation:

i threw my friend on the bike to give an idea of the size of this thing and riding position..hes about 6'2"

dp2275 · « **Reply #37 on:** December 28, 2008, 11:15:36 AM »

hey guys, i need some help here...

i think i finally found one of the issues i had with getthing this thing to run correctly..

the points system is alllll screwed up. i found an online honda shop manual on kingcustomcycle's website and tried to reset the points using a continuity meter (this is the correct way to do it vs. just 'eyeballing' like some do. what i found is that i cant rotate the main plate far enough to get the cyl-1/4 timing set correctly which leads to too much advance.

there are 3 slots in the main plate and 1 is longer than the other two..if i only use the long slot and remove the other two screws i can rotate the plate far enough to get the 1/4 timing set correctly but then even with the cyl-2/3 subplate rotated as far as itll go, i cant get it on the correct mark.

the honda shop manual says continuity should break right at timing mark 'F' ...im too far advanced on 1/4 and too far retarded on cyl 2/3

i can kinda set it at a happy medium and just set it so both banks are more advanced than they should be...but thatll lead to a strong/hot idle. what a pain in the ass.

if all the screws are in, i cant get the coils to fire on the 'F' mark...

if i only keep 1 screw in, i can set timing correctly on 1/4, but then the 2/3 subplate is maxed out and fires at 'T' instead of 'F' which is top dead center vs. idle timing..

am i doing something really stupid here or missing something? the points plate looks brand new and it doesnt look like it was screwed with by the previous owner much..is there any reason why stuff wouldnt line up correctly?

BlindJoe · « **Reply #38 on:** December 28, 2008, 11:57:40 AM »

there's a thread by TwoTired about this problem in the FAQ.

dp2275 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 28, 2008, 12:58:55 PM »

wow, i looked through the FAQ but mustve missed it! i went back through and found his post..ill try doing what it recomends and report back. thanks

dp2275 · « **Reply #40 on:** December 28, 2008, 07:52:58 PM »

so i followed TwoTired's instructions and it didnt really make a whole heck of alot of difference. i ended up making the gaps a hair bigger as well as lengthening the adjustment slots in the main plate and that let me get the timing pretty close to being where it should. its still just a bit advanced on both points, but it should run much better than it did..

PxTx · « **Reply #41 on:** December 28, 2008, 09:37:33 PM »

Bike is looking pretty good and I can share how great it feels to sit on a low 750. I'm kinda a vein rider, so on occasion I will rock some style over function on occasion. Don't know how much experience you have with these, but one of my 750's I lowered by dripping the front forks, like you did and I ended up moving them back. The bike felt really heavy when pushing it around, which I could have lived with. Bike did not handle anywhere near as good as a stock bike, which is the main reason I went back to the stock height in the front. I kept the rear low (not as low as yours) and was happy with how the bike felt. Have you ridden the bike at all?

Just found the thread, so maybe I missed some obvious stated points. My apologies if I did. I'm also digging your BMW. I've got an Audi 4kq with a 5 cyl 20vt running stand alone and some other items. Car weighs 2750 and is quattro with selectable lockers. Funny how I never find guys like you around me. Good Luck with both builds!

Really? · « **Reply #42 on:** December 29, 2008, 08:09:55 AM »

Kewl, I have been wondering how your bike was turning out. Hadn't seen this post for a while.

dp2275 · « **Reply #43 on:** December 29, 2008, 01:35:28 PM »

Quote from: PxTx on December 28, 2008, 09:37:33 PM

Bike is looking pretty good and I can share how great it feels to sit on a low 750. I'm kinda a vein rider, so on occasion I will rock some style over function on occasion. Don't know how much experience you have with these, but one of my 750's I lowered by dripping the front forks, like you did and I ended up moving them back. The bike felt really heavy when pushing it around, which I could have lived with. Bike did not handle anywhere near as good as a stock bike, which is the main reason I went back to the stock height in the front. I kept the rear low (not as low as yours) and was happy with how the bike felt. Have you ridden the bike at all?

i havent actually ridden the bike as i need new cables and to synch the carbs yet (its too cold to mess with the carbs so itll sit till i get a warm day). just from pushing around, i can tell the ride will be stiff but im still a young buck with good kidneys so im not worried about it too much. it also looks too damn good to raise back up..i might even lower it another inch

Quote

Just found the thread, so maybe I missed some obvious stated points. My apologies if I did. I'm also digging your BMW. I've got an Audi 4kq with a 5 cyl 20vt running stand alone and some other items. Car weighs 2750 and is quattro with selectable lockers. Funny how I never find guys like you around me. Good Luck with both builds!

glad you like the bimmer. ive spent thousands of hours planning and building. i must say though, i have a fancy for older audis!! since you arent too far maybe someday we can check eachother's rides out! i usually try to make it to the blown euroz meet in bucks county (shouldnt be but a few minutes from philly?) but ive never gotten my car there because its been off the road for a while. im currently working on installing a holset variable geometry turbo...hoping for full boost (25psi) by 2800-3000rpm..and with the varaible vane, it should hold to 7.2k redline with no issues and be capable of 500whp. cant wait

PxTx · « **Reply #44 on:** December 29, 2008, 02:09:32 PM »

Stiff ride, no problem, and lowering it some more would be cool. Not trying to add any weak sauce to your build, but if you do lower it more I would try and do as much from the rear.

Geting together for a Blow Euroz meet would be cool. I'm running the stock (from the UrS4 I got the motor from) turbo presently peaking to 27 and holding about 25 psi. Seriously only making about 225 whp right now. The tach in my 4kq only goes to 7k, but I usually shift somwhere past that. It's only 2.2l so a big turbo would not be good on the street. I have been eyeing up a whole GT3071 with an HO exhaust manifold, big down pipe and some 750cc injectors to hope to run some E85 if I can. Turbo should be spooled my 3k with about 400+ whp. I have not dyno tuned my current setup, but plan on doing so with the GT turbo. The guys at 034 Motorsport have a decent recipe for HP with this combo, so I trust I will be in the ballpark.

Where are you from? I would love to meet up at the drags if the car is not street legal yet.

dp2275 · « **Reply #45 on:** December 30, 2008, 07:48:17 AM »

Quote from: PxTx on December 29, 2008, 02:09:32 PM

Stiff ride, no problem, and lowering it some more would be cool. Not trying to add any weak sauce to your build, but if you do lower it more I would try and do as much from the rear.

Geting together for a Blow Euroz meet would be cool. I'm running the stock (from the UrS4 I got the motor from) turbo presently peaking to 27 and holding about 25 psi. Seriously only making about 225 whp right now. The tach in my 4kq only goes to 7k, but I usually shift somwhere past that. It's only 2.2l so a big turbo would not be good on the street. I have been eyeing up a whole GT3071 with an HO exhaust manifold, big down pipe and some 750cc injectors to hope to run some E85 if I can. Turbo should be spooled my 3k with about 400+ whp. I have not dyno tuned my current setup, but plan on doing so with the GT turbo. The guys at 034 Motorsport have a decent recipe for HP with this combo, so I trust I will be in the ballpark.

Where are you from? I would love to meet up at the drags if the car is not street legal yet.

That turbo is a little guy

when i dynoed last year, i was running a turbonetics 62-1 with .58 t4 split tang turbine...full boost came at 3500 and held till after 7k. im not a big fan of garrett based turbos as i think the technology is lagging compared to some other brands so i upgraded to a borg warner s362 with a .83 t4 split tang turbine housing. that turbo fully spooled by 3800 and felt alot stronger than the turbonetics (but unfortunately, i never got back on the dyno).

i ended up selling most of the turbo stuff to pay for school and now im piecing it back together. i picked up another standalone fuel system (VEMS genboard) and i just finished rebuilding the bottom end with lower compression pistons. the pistons i used before were 8.4:1 and flat top...the new pistons have dome but lower compression to 8.0:1 (better squench= less det. and more power). bmw motors are built pretty damn beefy from the factory so im using a factory piston and factory rods that have been lightened and shotpeened as well as the factory 2.7 crank. the stock cam is actually pretty aggressive also so there isnt much need to swap that out...a fellow on our forum hit 475whp with a completely stock 2.5 block/head and it was still pulling strong at redline.

The car is street legal but i need to finish building the new turbo setup before i get it back on the road. hoping for a 10.9 1/4 pass if i ever get to the track and if i can get her to hook up. i live in a little town called glenville..its about 2hrs southwest of philly (zip is 17329). i agree with you about 034...they really know what theyre doing with the audis!!

bradj · « **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2009, 02:10:28 AM »

great car I have not been on here to check on your bike in a while the last e30 i really got in to was a monster m20 motor and it would not hook i can not imagine dealing with your car there the same wheels we ran on our m3 track car i used toyo some things on it (to long ago to remember) they worked real well that car was heaver but the horse power pretty close any way super cool car e30s are hands down one of the greatest accomplishments of man kind bradj