Author Topic: 74 550-Ninja Hybreed-Coming Out Pics (Read 46880 times)

Soos · « **Reply #50 on:** November 18, 2008, 11:45:09 AM »

Quote from: moham on November 18, 2008, 10:03:47 AM

Stopped by the machine shop today to drop off valves and saw the cylinders and head. Looks freakin great. They are just going to cc the chambers and pistons for me to calculate CR, do a light valve job and then it will be done. I should get everything back by Friday.

AWESOME!!

I'm really interested in whether your CR is going to be near stock, or drop.
Hopefully due to the added diameter of the pistons the CR will not drop below stock.

l8r

moham · « **Reply #51 on:** November 20, 2008, 09:36:39 PM »

Got everything back from the shop today. After cc'ing the chambers and the dish area of the pistons, we figured out the CR will be exactly the same as stock 9.00:1. What are the odds of that? Anyway, I am pleased with that and the work that was done. It cost a lot but I am happy (and it's only money, right?). See the photos below...

Next up will be an attempt at a home port job. Time to do some more reading. I have a 650 head sitting on my bench that was dirt cheap that I am considering practicing on...

Soos · « **Reply #52 on:** November 20, 2008, 10:44:08 PM »

HAHA!

Thats AWESOME!
I'm REALLY glad your CR didn't drop any!

I would have kinda felt bad for sending you a set of pistons that would end up with a lower CR than stock...
It's worth it to gamble sometimes!

thnx for being a guinea pig for these pistons!
Now all the 550 riders have another really cheap overbore option besides cb750 pistons, or 650 pistrons with a 650 head.

Not only that but the ninja 600 pistons took a lot less machining(valve pocket reliefs only) than the "gentlemands express" 750 piston mods.
Mill setup only, no lathe work.

I'm eyeing a set of 2 valve (odd even though they are DOHC motors!) KZ750 pistons on E-bay to get 'em just to check out how usable they are in CBxxx motors.

l8r

moham · « **Reply #53 on:** December 01, 2008, 07:34:40 PM »

Finally got a chance to get down to the shop to work on the bike and fry a turkey. Pulled the forks, bars, headlight assembly etc and started to survey the wiring situation. It doesn't look great as they are a few snipped wires and jumped in bits. I have plans cooking that may not include side covers and entail a smaller than usual seat set-up so where to tuck wiring will be an issue to work on. In the next couple weeks I will overhaul forks with new fluid/seals etc and switch out the steering bearings to All Balls tapered stuff. Anybody run these forks without dust boots? Anyhow, the more layers I peel off the longer the list gets.

moham · « **Reply #54 on:** December 07, 2008, 04:48:03 PM »

Figured out I could run dust boots from a 77/78 model and lose the gators...

Now for brakes. I am going to upgrade to 750 caliper with speedbleeder valve and drilled rotor. I want to upgrade the MC as well and have seen a couple options. My question is: Has anyone (I know you're out there) used either of the two options below and with what results?

moham · « **Reply #55 on:** December 20, 2008, 08:52:01 PM »

Just received All Balls tapered steering stem bearings and will try to put those in next week. I also got a new wire harness and 750 caliper. The trade-off for keeping my bike's in a big, well-lit, heated shop is that said shop is 2-1/2 hours away. Don't get down there as much as I would like. I guess it keeps me working efficiently. The project plans have been updated to include the following:

1. tapered steering stem bearings
2. 750 caliper/rotor
3. aftermarket 10mm MC & braided lines
4. overhauled/relocated wiring to run without sidecovers
5. paint frame
6. metal finish tank with clearcoat
7. aftermarket signals
8. late 550f forks to run without gators
9. motor work: cylinders bored, 60mm pistons, 650 camshaft, valve job--DONE
10. head ported

See below for inspiration for this build...

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #56 on:** December 20, 2008, 11:25:13 PM »

That second MC is a radial with a remote reservoir. Used primarily in HI-Po applications.

Big $$$ for one of those.

My recommendation if you are going to use it is to run dual multi piston calipers. Everything else would be worthless with the force that thing will put out.

moham · « **Reply #57 on:** December 21, 2008, 06:23:57 AM »

Since I posted that pic of the two MCs, I figured out a bit more about the direction to go with the brake set-up. The MC:caliper ratio chart on the Vintage Brake website is what leads me to a 10mm MC. I've only seen one so far, on the MikesXS site. As cool as those Brembos are, I want a set-up that makes sense and it doesn't necessarily need to cost a ton of dough.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #58 on:** December 22, 2008, 04:36:20 PM »

i got an m/c from a late 90's bmw sport twin. 15mm. too much for the single front i'm running now, should be perfect for the dual disc setup i'll be using when i put comstars on it.

moham · « **Reply #59 on:** December 22, 2008, 08:49:04 PM »

OK, so one more source for the 10 or 11mm MC:

"I stock Brembos for $115 and No Names for $69, both + S&H.

Sincerely,
Michael "Mercury" Morse

650 Central
http://www.650central.com/

Vintage Brake
15069 Lupine Lane
Sonora, CA 95370
ph/fax (209) 533-4346
http://www.vintagebrake.com"

The 650 central site doesn't specify size of MC but says "Call", so I emailed him and the above was his reply.

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #60 on:** December 22, 2008, 08:54:23 PM »

I'm using a stock MC off of a 97 GSXR1000 with a stock Yamaha XJ SECA front end. Dual single piston calipers.

Should be ok with that. Especially if I run two lines directly off of the MC like Suzuki does.

Got it for $15+ship off of ebay.

Just another option for you.

XN · « **Reply #61 on:** December 22, 2008, 09:43:39 PM »

I got the first master cylinder you have pictured. Works good no complaints.

moham · « **Reply #62 on:** December 30, 2008, 06:02:26 AM »

Got everything taken down to the frame and cleaned up somewhat. Worked on stripping the tank and swingarm. Will need to finish sanding and clearcoat. I am still undecided on leaving the tank bare metal finish. I know I want the swingarm to be bare metal, but I'm starting to think some nice custom paint on the tank would be cool, too. Tried finding a powder coater in north-central Iowa with mixed results. Will take to someone here in the cities if necessary.

Also brought the lower case back up with me to start setting the stage for engine re-assembly. This will be the next major part of the process.

Below are a couple pics of the latest stage...

moham · « **Reply #63 on:** January 14, 2009, 08:22:21 PM »

OK, so after stripping the tank I decided I didn't like it anymore. I was going to try the bare metal finish (a look I like a lot) but wasn't delighted with what I was seeing. The shape is a little goofy (big and bulbous) which is endearing if all else is left stock (paint etc) but that's not appropriate here. So, I bought this fabricated tank (pictured below). In addition, I just found out recently that an old friend of the family has been doing custom motorcycle paint work for awhile so I am going to send it to him to get some color on it. I'm considering a scheme something akin to what you might see on a fancy pair of sneakers (or, perhaps, some contemporary golf shoes). I realize fully that I am a goofy bastard.

Soos · « **Reply #64 on:** January 15, 2009, 05:17:05 AM »

I like that tank.

You get that motor together yet?

l8r

moham · « **Reply #65 on:** January 15, 2009, 05:57:22 AM »

Quote from: Soos on January 15, 2009, 05:17:05 AM

You get that motor together yet?

I'm gathering momentum. I just need one or two free nights or a freaking Sunday to get to work on it. But alas free time has been a precious commodity around here lately. Got a lot of pokers in the fire as they say. I want to go through the bottom and check some tolerances and whatnot before I get going on shoving it all back together. Like I say, building momentum...

Soos · « **Reply #66 on:** January 15, 2009, 06:04:48 AM »

Know the feeling.

l8r

moham · « **Reply #67 on:** January 19, 2009, 10:00:34 PM »

Been into the lower case for the last couple nights. Took off and inspected what I could of the oil pump. Could not get the F-ing cover off the pump housing and rather than destroy it, thought I would leave it alone. It's got (only) 20K on it so, unless anybody can offer a good reason to try and get in there (I know the manual says to open it up and check the tolerances)...Inspected, however, the check valve and spring and sprayed/cleaned it out decently.

Spent a lot of time cleaning up the left crankcase around the sprocket, pump housing, pressure switch (took a brass brush to the switch connection, the switch itself looks shyte but haven't determined yet if it works, is there an easy replacement available?). Absolute mess in there, looks fair now.

Started on the clutch tonight and, to my eyes, looks a mess. The clutch plates and friction plates are quite rusted and corroded. Not sure yet the extent of the damage or what to do about it.

Visual aids below...

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #68 on:** January 20, 2009, 06:37:44 AM »

OOOF!!!!

If you want a replacement clutch (why wouldn't you??) let me know. I've been somewhat quite about it but I've been following your progress. This is coolness for me so...

All I need is year and model of your clutch basket (providing you haven't replaced that with a Kawasaki part either lol

)

moham · « **Reply #69 on:** January 20, 2009, 11:00:19 AM »

Quote from: HavocTurbo on January 20, 2009, 06:37:44 AM

OOOF!!!!

If you want a replacement clutch (why wouldn't you??) let me know. I've been somewhat quite about it but I've been following your progress. This is coolness for me so...

All I need is year and model of your clutch basket (providing you haven't replaced that with a Kawasaki part either lol )

Started looking this morning at a Barnett set-up, pros-cons etc. I guess there are some other aftermarket options and there is always oem. Thanks for the heads-up. I think replacement is pretty much inevitable at this stage.

Soos · « **Reply #70 on:** January 21, 2009, 04:50:13 AM »

Would a cb650 clutch assembly work for you?
I have no idea if they are swappable however. (paulages or others might know)

If you find it will work, PM me if interested.
Cheap as the pistons were....

(ok shipping would be a bit higher this time)

l8r

moham · « **Reply #71 on:** January 21, 2009, 08:04:18 AM »

Thinking about valves leads me to a question: is it standard practice to replace seats/keepers/retainers after disassembly? If so, should I upgrade said parts due to increased HP? And I guess the same performance question applies to springs. Should I just do em all? Well?

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #72 on:** January 21, 2009, 11:57:48 AM »

Do em all....

You up graded the cylinders/pistons.... only seems fair that you do the rest.

Wouldn't want your heads to feel left out.

moham · « **Reply #73 on:** January 22, 2009, 11:19:43 AM »

Have ordered:

a) Barnett clutch kit

b) R/D valve spring kit

Should have them both in a few days. I was trying to decide between Kibblewhite and R/D and couldn't find much to persuade me either way so it came down to whoever answered their phone first. I gotta say, some of these companies, as high-tech as their machining technology may be, need to get with the InterWeb. How can you not have a website for on-line orders? Have they not heard of Amazon.freaking.Com (worth about nine trillion dollars)?

In any event, I've got everything down to where the two lower cases should be coming apart only thing is they aren't. Was quite generous with Kroil last night but have not tried to tap them apart yet today.

I read a few threads about the generator rotor puller and people improvising with all sorts of stuff, but a call to Honda Town in Minneapolis and $5.82 later I had the genuine Honda spec tool no. 07933-2160000. I still needed a hammer though.

moham · « **Reply #74 on:** January 24, 2009, 10:38:23 PM »

Lower cases are disassembled and ready to get tanked/blasted. Everything is tagged and bagged and I even cross-referenced on the parts baggies the corresponding step from the shop manual. I backed all of this up with my own step-by-step photos. I'll need all of these to get it back together, I'm sure.

To be honest, the hardest part was digging out the old broken down rubber oil seal where the neutral stop switch attaches to the case. What's more, I can't seem to find it on the fiche and I'll need a part number as the old one is definitely destroyed. Anyone got a clue?

The connecting rods, gear selector forks and starter clutch all had a fair amount of surface rust which I've been blasting with wd40 and a nylon brush. I think they'll be ok.

The crankshaft journal/bearing clearances checked out ok. Getting closer to pushing it all back together.

News:

Author Topic: 74 550-Ninja Hybreed-Coming Out Pics (Read 46880 times)

fuzzybutt