Author Topic: 74 550-Ninja Hybreed-Coming Out Pics (Read 47075 times)

moham · « **Reply #225 on:** October 02, 2009, 08:32:06 PM »

A question for you frame experts:

Can I hack off the seat support over the rear fender without consequence (fatal or otherwise unhealthy)? Is it structurally vital? Seems pretty thin to be of huge importance but I understand physics little, so Hawking can Suck It.

New seat pan is being fabbed by this guy (thumbs pointing at me) so get ready for some laughs...

rachet · « **Reply #226 on:** October 03, 2009, 07:33:55 AM »

I've seen a lot of bikes where they cut the frame behind the shock mounts, and call it good. No support at all. Perhaps you could weld in a piece of flat bar if you are really concerned. I guess it would also depend on your seat design.

Ogri · « **Reply #227 on:** October 03, 2009, 08:55:55 AM »

I think it's just there to support the back of the stock seat and the weight of a pillion passenger.

I am not an expert.

moham · « **Reply #228 on:** October 03, 2009, 09:39:41 AM »

Quote from: rachet on October 03, 2009, 07:33:55 AM

I've seen a lot of bikes where they cut the frame behind the shock mounts, and call it good. No support at all. Perhaps you could weld in a piece of flat bar if you are really concerned.

those were my two thoughts exactly.

moham · « **Reply #229 on:** October 05, 2009, 07:13:15 PM »

Been messing around with body stuff. Made brackets for the battery and electrics panel. It's not totally hidden but is tucked rather neatly now. Got a chrome headlight bucket now just need a lamp. I guess I'll eventually need a taillight but I'll get to that later. Fabbed up the seat pan, just needs a few tweaks and should be good for covering. Chopped the rear fender.

Found pods and stacks. Go figure. Now just waiting for these items to arrive. Ahem.

Figure I'm about 2-3 weeks from 90% completion. Then a test drive will be in order, I suppose...

moham · « **Reply #230 on:** October 07, 2009, 07:02:37 PM »

Dropped the seat pan off for covering at a cool shop in Ames. Actually tried two different places, one wanted $500 and the other no more than $200. Pays to shop around...should pick it up by the end of the week. I sure hope it doesn't look like shyte. The guy who's doing it was really interested in the bike, chatted for a long time about it. At least for $150-200 I won't feel raped if it doesn't match perfectly what
I have in mind.

Got velocity stacks fitted today. Found two different sets, both under $40, will keep pods
as a back-up. Can't wait to get to the tuning stage. Only drag is I told
myself when I can drive this bike out of the shop it's time to move
all my shyte to my new shop space, about a mile down the road. Not really looking forward to moving the K0 motor, tools and other spare shyte. Maybe I'll have Maynard move it all with the old Case 1066...

moham · « **Reply #231 on:** October 08, 2009, 05:21:34 PM »

Finally found a 650 tach gear for this beast, so I am hereby opening the floor to suggestions for new tach, speed 'o meters. Anyone got any favorites?

von_Wanderlust · « **Reply #232 on:** October 19, 2009, 05:27:05 PM »

Quote from: moham on October 03, 2009, 09:39:41 AM

Quote from: rachet on October 03, 2009, 07:33:55 AM
I've seen a lot of bikes where they cut the frame behind the shock mounts, and call it good. No support at all. Perhaps you could weld in a piece of flat bar if you are really concerned.

those were my two thoughts exactly.

That was also my gut feeling, i.e. replace it with something else, but I had nothing to back it up until now. I've been reading Tony Foale's book, he had some discounted on ebay (there may still be more there?) so I bought one while I had the funds. I came across this yesterday and thought of this post, it just took me a while to remember which thread it was in!

He mentions that "a practical point that is sometimes over-looked in connection with handling is the lateral stiffness of the sub-frame supporting the seat", going on to explain that lack of adequate seat support means that the rider is not getting an accurate idea of how the bike handling through the seat of his pants, leading to cases of "suspected" bad handling. Foale also mentions that a lack of adequate lateral stiffness in the rear subframe / seat support was linked to an increased incidence in broken suspension-strut piston rods. That's not to say that it will happen with our frames, but it does show the extra stresses that could be creating by removing the hoop and not replacing it with something equal.

Sounds like you already made the decision to not just cut it out, but replace the hoop with something else - good choice!

Cheers,
vW

moham · « **Reply #233 on:** October 22, 2009, 10:17:14 PM »

Quote from: von_Wanderlust on October 19, 2009, 05:27:05 PM

Quote from: moham on October 03, 2009, 09:39:41 AM
Quote from: rachet on October 03, 2009, 07:33:55 AM
I've seen a lot of bikes where they cut the frame behind the shock mounts, and call it good. No support at all. Perhaps you could weld in a piece of flat bar if you are really concerned.

those were my two thoughts exactly.

That was also my gut feeling, i.e. replace it with something else, but I had nothing to back it up until now. I've been reading Tony Foale's book, he had some discounted on ebay (there may still be more there?) so I bought one while I had the funds. I came across this yesterday and thought of this post, it just took me a while to remember which thread it was in!

He mentions that "a practical point that is sometimes over-looked in connection with handling is the lateral stiffness of the sub-frame supporting the seat", going on to explain that lack of adequate seat support means that the rider is not getting an accurate idea of how the bike handling through the seat of his pants, leading to cases of "suspected" bad handling. Foale also mentions that a lack of adequate lateral stiffness in the rear subframe / seat support was linked to an increased incidence in broken suspension-strut piston rods. That's not to say that it will happen with our frames, but it does show the extra stresses that could be creating by removing the hoop and not replacing it with something equal.

Sounds like you already made the decision to not just cut it out, but replace the hoop with something else - good choice!

Cheers,
vW

thanks for the input VW. I did hack it off and while i didn't weld anything in it's place, I do have a length of all-thread bolted in. I'm not convinced this jankiness will add much if any structural support, but if it's too Princess Wobbleina I can go back and address it...

Getting so close now I can smell it.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #234 on:** October 22, 2009, 10:51:03 PM »

Quote from: moham on October 22, 2009, 10:17:14 PM

Quote from: von_Wanderlust on October 19, 2009, 05:27:05 PM
Quote from: moham on October 03, 2009, 09:39:41 AM
Quote from: rachet on October 03, 2009, 07:33:55 AM
I've seen a lot of bikes where they cut the frame behind the shock mounts, and call it good. No support at all. Perhaps you could weld in a piece of flat bar if you are really concerned.

those were my two thoughts exactly.

That was also my gut feeling, i.e. replace it with something else, but I had nothing to back it up until now. I've been reading Tony Foale's book, he had some discounted on ebay (there may still be more there?) so I bought one while I had the funds. I came across this yesterday and thought of this post, it just took me a while to remember which thread it was in!

He mentions that "a practical point that is sometimes over-looked in connection with handling is the lateral stiffness of the sub-frame supporting the seat", going on to explain that lack of adequate seat support means that the rider is not getting an accurate idea of how the bike handling through the seat of his pants, leading to cases of "suspected" bad handling. Foale also mentions that a lack of adequate lateral stiffness in the rear subframe / seat support was linked to an increased incidence in broken suspension-strut piston rods. That's not to say that it will happen with our frames, but it does show the extra stresses that could be creating by removing the hoop and not replacing it with something equal.

Sounds like you already made the decision to not just cut it out, but replace the hoop with something else - good choice!

Cheers,
vW

thanks for the input VW. I did hack it off and while i didn't weld anything in it's place, I do have a length of all-thread bolted in. I'm not convinced this jankiness will add much if any structural support, but if it's too Princess Wobbleina I can go back and address it...

Getting so close now I can smell it.

The reason the back part of the frame is braced is because the suspension mounts to either side, it will flex from side to side if not replaced with something else. The amount of flex will be determined by how hard you ride it, i would never leave it unbraced, i like to know when i have my footpegs folded up under me that the bike is going to run true and not all of a sudden twist or wobble. Better to be safe than sorry.

Mick

moham · « **Reply #235 on:** October 24, 2009, 09:16:15 PM »

I hear what you're saying about side flex, but in all honesty, as flimsy as the seat support I'd, it doesn't seem like much would be needed to replace the support.

The upholstery shop has had me seat for three weeks now and I just found out they don't even have the right material for covering it. Arggh! Trying to be patient but the seat is the only thing keeping me from getting this thing on the road...

Owned · « **Reply #236 on:** October 28, 2009, 08:56:19 PM »

Weld a small piece of flat to the top of your frame section to keep from flexing. You'll want it. Before you do, make sure you have it in a section allowing adequate tire clearance.

On your upholstery, get it out of the shop and send it to the guy I used: Kent's Upholstery 3177889096 here in Indy.

He turned this:

Into this:

His turn around was roughly 5 business days.

moham · « **Reply #237 on:** October 30, 2009, 08:00:38 PM »

Owned, very nice. Did you fab the seat/tail section yourself? I dig the stitching too. The guys I'm using are on it (so they say) so I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and judge the results when they are finished. Perhaps it will be worth the wait. I chose this outfit based on the recommendation of another forum member so hopefully they come through. Stuff just seems to take it's own time out here on the prairie!

moham · « **Reply #238 on:** November 03, 2009, 03:00:34 PM »

still f%#@ing waiting.

still.

f*^$ing.

waiting.

Like Hank Williams said, "ain't gonna worry wrinkles in my brow, ain't nothin ever gonna be right nohow..."

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #239 on:** November 06, 2009, 03:46:30 PM »

Did the pods fit?

You gots pictures of this here contraption?

My fingers are crossed for your seat.

moham · « **Reply #240 on:** November 06, 2009, 08:16:07 PM »

Havoc, good to see you. I actually have stacks fitted right now and am holding the pods as a back-up.

Got the seat back this afternoon and threw it on. Looks good and the price was right. I think the owner felt a little poorly about having it for a month. They actually did a really nice job, it is just as I had it pictured.

Spent some time zip-tying some of the loose wiring and fired it up for the first test-run. I got it down the road a bit but it wasn't very convincing. I static timed it awhile back but will put the light on it tomorrow. I actually have the Dyna ignition ready to bolt on but for some reason have been vacillating on install. I guess my thinking was to get it up and going with points to at least have a baseline to start from. I think I'll go ahead and throw the Dyna in tomorrow. As far as rough running, I will have to play with it and see. Velocity stacks and stock jets I'm guessing is not an ideal combination. It surely wants to be choked to get any speed under it (only saw 1st and a little bit of 2nd gear today) and it was quite rough.

Anybody use the retro chrome style headlight bucket from Emgo? What size freakin bolts go in that thing? Nothing I've tried works, 5/16-18, M8-1.25, M8-1.0...and no word back from the idjits I got it from. it's gonna look nice, though, between the brackets I got from ttr400.

I will post some Coming Out pics (ha) as soon as I sort the last few aesthetic bits...

Soos · « **Reply #241 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:05:50 AM »

Glad to hear you got her out on the road for a shakedown

Pics!!!

I would like to see the seat!

l8r

moham · « **Reply #242 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:07:07 PM »

Well I assumed that with stacks I would need to richen things up so last night I raised the needles to their highest position (clip at lowest position) and turned the air screws in another half-turn. Started it tonight with the intention of strobing it but decided to pull plugs first. Good thing I did cuz they were filthy black sooty. Cleaned them up and started it and it ran friggin awesome, idling with no choke. Ran it for a few minutes and pulled plugs again and they were starting to get crappy again. Turned screws back out. Ran it for a bit and checked the plugs again. Starting to show signs of rich, so looks like I need to go back and raise the clips again, think I will try at third position from bottom. Not sure what stock position is, but they were second from bottom when I got them. This seems counter-intuitive to me. My thinking was that without the vacuum of the stock airbox and having open stacks instead, that all ranges would need more gas flowing through. For now it seems like the lower ranges don't need as much as I thought, time will tell if the higher throttle ranges will need adjustment as well. Running stock mains now and my intuition is that will not be adequate.

Looking forward to playing with it some more tomorrow.

moham · « **Reply #243 on:** November 09, 2009, 09:58:06 PM »

Got in some decent work tonight. Pulled the carbs and raised the needle clips to third position. Still can't find anywhere in the shop manual that gives the stock spec for jet needle position. Turned the screws out two full turns. Stock spec is 1 +/-3/8 or something silly like that. Threw in the Dyna S ignition. Don't know what I was afraid of. Static timed with the test light and didn't need to adjust at all. Happy coincidence I guess. Realized I hadn't performed the basic cam chain adjustment (what with the spanking new cam chain tensioner and everything?? dipshyte!) so that has now been done.

The re-test fire will have to wait till morning as I did not want to disturb the coons and other cute wildlife that live near the shop (including my in-laws...)

Meetings in the morning means I won't get to it until the afternoon, barring any other obstacles...

bikebitzofvt · « **Reply #244 on:** November 10, 2009, 05:58:50 AM »

I'm looking forward to your finished pics!
If I recall correctly the stock needle clip position to be in the middle (3rd from the bottom)

IMO it's cheaper to foul plugs than burn holes in pistons

moham · « **Reply #245 on:** November 11, 2009, 03:02:51 PM »

At first grab, the motor seems to like the tuning changes I made. Air screws out one turn and clips third from bottom. Idled with no choke, strobed great, sounded awesome, got up and down the road about five miles with next to no trouble, just a slight hesitation at one point in the main jet throttle range (which would surprise me if this didn't happen with the ported head and hotter cam). Still, I didn't push it too much, took it to about 70mph
at the most. Had a slight vertical wobble from the front end which was weird. But I do have these big ass tires in it and there's a good chance the front was over-inflated.

In my excitement, I forgot to pull the plugs to see why's going on but I'll do that later tonight. As soon as I ge my tach hooked up and the front end wobble handled I might wind it up a bit more and see what's what.

Not lookin forward to stuffing all the wiring in the bucket but since that's the last thing keeping me from showing it off, I guess I better git gittin'...

moham · « **Reply #246 on:** November 14, 2009, 04:24:49 PM »

pics later tonite...

moham · « **Reply #247 on:** November 14, 2009, 09:51:37 PM »

Alright kids, let's review: 1974 CB550, $200 basket case. Updated with the following-

60mm pistons from a 1985 GPZ 600 (thanks Soos)
RD valve springs/retainers
CB650 cam
Dyna 3 ohm coils
Dyna S ignition
Barnett clutch springs/friction discs
Stage 2 porting by JMR (thanks Mike)
9.0:1 CR
573cc
Mac 4-1

Progressive rear shocks (thanks Havoc)
HondaMan swingarm treatment (thanks HM)
1977 550 forks
1977 750 caliper and rotor
Brembo 11mm MC, s/s line
Ferrodo Platinum pads
Dunlop TT100s
billet aluminum headlight brackets by ttr400 (thanks Kevin)
new gauges/lights, etc
custom tank art by Hughes Moto Art (thanks Carl)
custom seat by Houge Custom Upholstery

This has been a fun project. Thanks to everyone who has helped out along the way with info, parts and interest...

mo.

andy750 · « **Reply #248 on:** November 15, 2009, 05:56:33 AM »

Wow how did I miss this! What a great looking bike! Reminds me of a flat tracker or something I saw in Japan. Very very nice!

How does it ride?

cheers
Andy

moham · « **Reply #249 on:** November 15, 2009, 06:00:08 AM »

Here's a few more...

News:

Author Topic: 74 550-Ninja Hybreed-Coming Out Pics (Read 47075 times)