Topic: Cheap fixes and mods

[iaml3lue]

Hey guys im new to bikes but i know in the jeep world theres always some cool cheap mods or fixes to be done i was wondering if there were any for my bik its a 1974 cb 750

[754]

Weld a socket to your oil filter bolt (shortened socket is best)

Take your front brake adjuster screw, locknut & spring off and toss them into the bottom of your toolbox..

Clip a spare chain masterlink onto your clutch cable where it comes out of the engine..

Shorten a churchkey, drill a hole in it and mount to lower rear shock bolt..

Use a hitchpin clip in place of your cotter pin on rear axle nut...

Cut the rear mount off your front sprocket cover and some of the side, still works but so much easier to get on & off..

Turn chain-oiler off and lube by other means...

Weld a small socket into stock plugwrench to be able to use 1/4 inch drive ratchet..

[TwoTired]

Take your front brake adjuster screw, locknut & spring off and toss them into the bottom of your toolbox..

I consider this very bad advise.

[754]

Why do you conside it bad advice??

Them being adjusted wrong cause other problems. If caliper is working properly, it will work fine without the screw.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

lubricate everything including electrical connectors with proper lubes. Old bikes are always dry.  I start by spraying the entire motorcycle except the seat, side covers, tank, and tires with penetrating lube.  I let it sit overnight and then wipe it down with a rag.

A Bobber is the ultimate cheap fix and mod.  I remove everything that doesn't make it go or stop. Less to keep in good repair, less to remove for service, less weight, less wiring, less legal in some states 

[dustyc]

Use shoe polish to make dry rotted tires "like new". 

Tin foil wrapped around fuses to make them "blow proof". 

Radiator hose instead of those expensive carb to intake insulators. 

Gaskets?  We don't need no stinking gaskets.  That's what RTV is for.

Soda cans and JB Weld make holes in your mufflers all better.

Individual pod air filters always make your bike run better.

If you wear shorts when you ride, shave your legs for better aerodynamics.

If you don't wear a helmet, shave your head for better aerodynamics.(If you ride on twisty roads, a mohawk is better for handling. -better yet, shave your head and get one of those stick on plastic mohawks.  That leaves you with options.)

Carry only vice grips for use on all fasteners.  Saves weight vs carrying all those wrenches=better horsepower/weight ratio.

And I heard about this one recently -it's brilliant!  Run sand through your carbs.  It'll port your heads for virtually no money.

[NickC]

Use shoe polish to make dry rotted tires "like new". 

Tin foil wrapped around fuses to make them "blow proof". 

Radiator hose instead of those expensive carb to intake insulators. 

Gaskets?  We don't need no stinking gaskets.  That's what RTV is for.

Soda cans and JB Weld make holes in your mufflers all better.

Individual pod air filters always make your bike run better.

If you wear shorts when you ride, shave your legs for better aerodynamics.

If you don't wear a helmet, shave your head for better aerodynamics.(If you ride on twisty roads, a mohawk is better for handling. -better yet, shave your head and get one of those stick on plastic mohawks.  That leaves you with options.)

Carry only vice grips for use on all fasteners.  Saves weight vs carrying all those wrenches=better horsepower/weight ratio.

And I heard about this one recently -it's brilliant!  Run sand through your carbs.  It'll port your heads for virtually no money.

 

Radiator hose instead of those expensive carb to intake insulators.
Hey, I actually did that one LOL

[goon 1492]

If you don't wear a helmet, shave your head for better aerodynamics.(If you ride on twisty roads, a mohawk is better for handling. -better yet, shave your head and get one of those stick on plastic mohawks.  That leaves you with options.)

 

[Alan F.]

If you have the space, get another bike for parts...if it has paperwork you can always make a project of it later on down the line.

[Heironymous Josh]

And I heard about this one recently -it's brilliant!  Run sand through your carbs.  It'll port your heads for virtually no money.

 

[Geeto67]

there is a section in the FAQ for real cheap fixes, look for the Hondaman post.

it is a bike not a jeep, the kind of cheap-o fixes on a jeep won't work on a bike, and I can tell you this from experience as a 13 year YJ owner and beach and trail veteran.

[speedy gonzalais]

And if you want to go really cheap leave it in the garage under a dust sheet, No petrol no parts no labour should save you a grand or 2 a year.

As for cheap fixes there aint none there are cheap bodges that often lead to other problems but your free to try for your self.

[Soos]

Don't forget speed holes....in everything but the tires.
Yeah thats the ticket....
Especially the fender, gastank and forks.
 


I'll second the sand method for head porting... it had almost instant results!


But really....
cheap... define your personal view of cheap.
And it depends on what you are attempting to fix on the cheap side of things...

I wanted to upgrade the brakes on my next project so I took the front end off my kawasaki  I got for free...ended up with a upgraded the MC, dual disk, and 37mm foks....                 all for free.
Ok it took some machining, a $18 bearing, hope and a prayer it would work as well.


Depends on your creativity, and ability to adapt parts.
Willingness to completely hack your bikes re-sale value doesn't hurt either for cheap fixes.



l8r

[TwoTired]

Why do you consider it bad advice??

Them being adjusted wrong cause other problems. If caliper is working properly, it will work fine without the screw.

Are you saying you are incapable of adjusting the brake screw properly?
If your definition of "work fine" means the bike still stops, then I agree.  However, that is not why the adjuster and spring are there.
 
The adjuster and spring move the stationary pad away from the disk .006 inch.  The square section seal in the caliper retracts the piston about .012 inch (when it relaxes from the parallelogram position), yielding about .006 clearance on both sides of the rotor, and allowing the brake disk to turn freely without contact, drag and wear.
 Without the lateral positioner (adjusting screw and spring) the brake arm/caliper assembly pivots laterally with road forces causing the pads to contact the rotor intermittently, creating heat, drag, and wear, and possibly some noise on bumpy roads.  If you consider these side effects as benefits, then remove what you will from the bike, especially if it's a show piece instead of a rider.

Cheers,

[iaml3lue]

my idea of cheap depends like this week it would be $20 but usually its in the $100 ball park
an what i mean is stuff that will improve the driveability of the bike

[scondon]

  Steering stem bearings are often buggered and can be replaced with new tapered bearing kits for around $50. Swingarm bushings can be replaced with either bronze buhings or roller bearing kit. If your stock stuff is worn and notched this can help a lot with stability on the road and in turns.

   Handle bars are cheap and you can play around finding a rise that suits your tastes. Grips too.

   Because of the age and condition of these bikes the best and cheapest thing to do to improve driveability is to get a Honda shop manual and start working through the tune-up maintenance procedures. Often there is great gains to be made.

   There are things that can be done to increase speed and handling over stock specs but can't think of much that fall in your price range and most require a good working knowledge of the bikes systems in order to implement. Start with the manual would be my advice.

[gregimotis]

Buy a battery tender.

use Simple Green as a primary light duty cleaner (clean shiny bikes are 10-15% faster than dirty grimy ones)

carry a spare chain link clip, fuses, points, and plugs and blinker light bulb (bikes that start are on average 100% faster)

get some comfortable riding gloves (that'l help ride comfort right there)

Learn to work the words 'bugger', 'cram it', and 'go screw' into conversation.

remove anything from your gear which has the words 'Rocket' or 'Ballistic' or the letters 'H' or 'D'.  Or the color orange.  Uncool nuthuggers are on average 25% slower.

Learn two or three models of Norton and Vincent.  Name drop.  (This doesn't make one faster, but if you're going to be a fan of something, make it something worthwhile).

[kslrr]

Why do you consider it bad advice??

Them being adjusted wrong cause other problems. If caliper is working properly, it will work fine without the screw.

Are you saying you are incapable of adjusting the brake screw properly?
If your definition of "work fine" means the bike still stops, then I agree.  However, that is not why the adjuster and spring are there.
 
The adjuster and spring move the stationary pad away from the disk .006 inch.  The square section seal in the caliper retracts the piston about .012 inch (when it relaxes from the parallelogram position), yielding about .006 clearance on both sides of the rotor, and allowing the brake disk to turn freely without contact, drag and wear.
 Without the lateral positioner (adjusting screw and spring) the brake arm/caliper assembly pivots laterally with road forces causing the pads to contact the rotor intermittently, creating heat, drag, and wear, and possibly some noise on bumpy roads.  If you consider these side effects as benefits, then remove what you will from the bike, especially if it's a show piece instead of a rider.

Cheers,

+1. I had removed the spring, screw and nut years ago thinking it was the cause of my squeeking brake.  Years later, after learning how the frount disk properly operates, I cleaned the caliper and piston, reinstalled and properly set the adjuster (lucky for me I still had it) and now my front brake works the way it was designed to work.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

Why do you consider it bad advice??

Them being adjusted wrong cause other problems. If caliper is working properly, it will work fine without the screw.

Are you saying you are incapable of adjusting the brake screw properly?
If your definition of "work fine" means the bike still stops, then I agree.  However, that is not why the adjuster and spring are there.
 
The adjuster and spring move the stationary pad away from the disk .006 inch.  The square section seal in the caliper retracts the piston about .012 inch (when it relaxes from the parallelogram position), yielding about .006 clearance on both sides of the rotor, and allowing the brake disk to turn freely without contact, drag and wear.
 Without the lateral positioner (adjusting screw and spring) the brake arm/caliper assembly pivots laterally with road forces causing the pads to contact the rotor intermittently, creating heat, drag, and wear, and possibly some noise on bumpy roads.  If you consider these side effects as benefits, then remove what you will from the bike, especially if it's a show piece instead of a rider.

Cheers,

Must have touched a nerve to get all technical and proper with the big words.  I am an Aeronautic Engineering Professor and gave up on that angle long ago.  It just makes you look pompous. 

[oldhondarider]

Is there any modifications required to go to new tapered bearings?  Will they fit the stock?

[Jonesy]

Why do you consider it bad advice??

Them being adjusted wrong cause other problems. If caliper is working properly, it will work fine without the screw.

Are you saying you are incapable of adjusting the brake screw properly?
If your definition of "work fine" means the bike still stops, then I agree.  However, that is not why the adjuster and spring are there.
 
The adjuster and spring move the stationary pad away from the disk .006 inch.  The square section seal in the caliper retracts the piston about .012 inch (when it relaxes from the parallelogram position), yielding about .006 clearance on both sides of the rotor, and allowing the brake disk to turn freely without contact, drag and wear.
 Without the lateral positioner (adjusting screw and spring) the brake arm/caliper assembly pivots laterally with road forces causing the pads to contact the rotor intermittently, creating heat, drag, and wear, and possibly some noise on bumpy roads.  If you consider these side effects as benefits, then remove what you will from the bike, especially if it's a show piece instead of a rider.

Cheers,

Doesn't the spring keep pressure on the movable brake pad all the time? Even with it adjusted per the manual, the piston-side pad lightly contacts the brake rotor, causing it to squeak at times while riding the motorcycle.

[WFO]

Buy a battery tender.

use Simple Green as a primary light duty cleaner (clean shiny bikes are 10-15% faster than dirty grimy ones)

carry a spare chain link clip, fuses, points, and plugs and blinker light bulb (bikes that start are on average 100% faster)

get some comfortable riding gloves (that'l help ride comfort right there)

Learn to work the words 'bugger', 'cram it', and 'go screw' into conversation.

remove anything from your gear which has the words 'Rocket' or 'Ballistic' or the letters 'H' or 'D'.  Or the color orange.  Uncool nuthuggers are on average 25% slower.

Learn two or three models of Norton and Vincent.  Name drop.  (This doesn't make one faster, but if you're going to be a fan of something, make it something worthwhile).

Nicely done.

[TwoTired]

Doesn't the spring keep pressure on the movable brake pad all the time? Even with it adjusted per the manual, the piston-side pad lightly contacts the brake rotor, causing it to squeak at times while riding the motorcycle.

No. Not if the caliper seal is doing it's job correctly.  This part has two functions. 1- to retain the fluid. 2- it is a square section seal, the part that contacts the pistons doesn't slide until pad wear has occurred.  Otherwise, it maintains contact with the piston and changes shape from square to parallelogram when the pressure is applied to move the piston.  When hydraulic pressure is relieved, the seal returns to square shape and withdraws the piston.  If the brake puck is free to move, it also withdraws with the piston, leaving clearance for the rotor.  The stock set up had a nylon greased washer/ring between pad and piston which provided enough adhesion to pull the puck back with the piston.
If the seal isn't seated correctly in the caliper groove due to deposits buildup, or if the piston is pitted where the seal sits, the seal can't perform it's retraction job properly due to distortion of the rubber part.

Cheers,

[Alan F.]

oldhondarider, the tapered roller kit comes with its own outer races that are installed in the headstock after you tap the ball bearing races out with a drift (or chunk of broom handle) the kit comes with the upper bearing and race, the lower bearing and race, and a big spacer that drops onto your steering stem first before the bearing to take up the extra space...as the tapered roller setup is more compact than the ball bearing setup.  Order up a new dust seal for the bottom bearing too, as your old one will almost certainly be destroyed removing the ball bearing's innse race from the steering stem.

It's all covered quite well in many other posts.

[754]

Thanks,  TT for the detailed info on brake setup.. it is certainly not in my Clymer manuals.

However, I ran them for years without & will likely continue, as there were no ill effects. First time I tokk my wheel off with dual disc, it was time for them to go..

I even cut the booss for the adjuster off forks I had chromed. Perhaps we should do a poll on this ad, most riders I knew left them out..