Author Topic: 1975 CB750F - Project Yellow Jacket (Read 57804 times)

KB02 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 21, 2008, 09:18:47 am »

Quote from: DollarBill on October 20, 2008, 08:44:55 pm

That is sweet lookin'!!! Great inspiration for a build.

Too bad you got hosed on the wiring harness. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.

As for the washer on the carbs, I can't help. Wish I could.

DollarBill · « **Reply #26 on:** October 21, 2008, 08:59:02 pm »

I can't believe it but I actually thought about selling my little 350 today to fund my 750 project. What was I thinking? I bet that happens all the time with this group of folks.

HavocTurbo · « **Reply #27 on:** October 21, 2008, 11:28:16 pm »

You wouldn't believe how many bikes I have sold or traded for parts to "fund" a current build.

After you get the bug you just want progress immediately. That's why I make a list and buy buy buy till I get everything I think I'm gonna need. Then I tear it all apart.

Keeps me from selling my house out from under me lol.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #28 on:** October 22, 2008, 10:54:59 am »

I HAD their old RR24 unit until I cooked it playing around in one of my attempts to try to determine why I wasn't getting the holy grail of 14.5V in my system. After cleaning about a million connectors, etc and using a replacement used wiring harness in an attempt to eliminate any potential issues with possible broken wiring I finally came to the conclusion that the Dyna III, Dyna 3ohm green coils, and H4 headlight bulb are sucking the juice outta my system. My solution is to keep the revs up if I'm riding in town and try to avoid heavy traffic and stoplights to keep my battery at an adequate level and plug in my Battery Tender at home. My next solution which I expect to make no difference is to use the NOS harness that I found about a year ago.

Apparently there are 2 different Electrex organizations. I think the original is British and the American is a rogue US spinoff that the British one no longer has anything to do with. So they may have 2 different units they sell. When I restore I will buy another one of their replacements. I don't expect any/much better results but I'm a solid state fan over conventional mechanical "electronics".

Oh yeah, if you find another harness just be sure they can show you the -392 tag attached near the middle so you'll know it's correct.

UnCrash · « **Reply #29 on:** October 22, 2008, 11:07:32 am »

As for the crap connectors, you can make the most of the now three harness you own by cherry picking the best harness, then fitting the best connectors.

NAPA sells a dohickey which looks like a tiny flathead screwdriver which will help to pull the wires out of the plastic connector housing. This stupid tool costs $10 but its well worth it.

Once you have your wires out you can get the best connector available for your connection... Best of luck.

UnCrash · « **Reply #30 on:** October 22, 2008, 11:10:20 am »

Bad news for your website======>

DollarBill · « **Reply #31 on:** October 22, 2008, 11:45:56 am »

I laid everything out last night and I think I will only need to buy one 6 pin connector. I'll check on the dohicky tool too... I'm getting close to being able to put everything back together and attempting to fire her up.

- one connector
- one battery
- oil / oil filter

There is a slow drip and over the last 7 or 8 years the bike has almost emptied itself of oil. Any concerns with that before trying to start it. I read on one of these threads that you should fill the oil and then kick the kick starter a bunch of times to get oil moving. Does that sound right?

Really? · « **Reply #32 on:** October 22, 2008, 12:08:06 pm »

So will this bike be yellow with black stripes?

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #33 on:** October 22, 2008, 12:48:25 pm »

Some of the guys pour some oil into the top end after a rebuild. Definitely kick it some before starting.

My tool for removing the individual pins from the connectors utilizes a large paper clip and a hammer. Pound the end of the paper clip flat then insert it into the connector to press the "keeper" thingy inward to allow the pin to come out.

DollarBill · « **Reply #34 on:** October 22, 2008, 12:54:11 pm »

Jerry, I'll try your method for removing pins tonight...thanks.

Hey GigaWhiskey, I don't think I am going to go that far with the yellow jacket theme

Gold frame
Gold Nighthawk mags like the ones in the photo I posted on the red Nighthawk Cafe
Black tank with gold honda lettering in Norton font style and gold pinstripe. Maybe elongate the tank a little and make a smidge taller. Gonna have to learn how to weld first

BIG DREAMS BIG DREAMS!!!!
Seat...maybe guilliari style...not sure yet but definitely cafe.
Possibly a fairing like the one on the red Nighthawk...again still undecided.

I was working on a custom design for the tank...sort of a play off an old Honda design. In the end I like the idea of classic and simple looking.

DollarBill · « **Reply #35 on:** October 22, 2008, 12:58:00 pm »

Hey UnCrash,

Just went to my website and it worked fine.....hmmmmm. Probably something one of the hosting company monkeys did...

Really? · « **Reply #36 on:** October 22, 2008, 01:11:18 pm »

Yea it works, I was able to get to your site. You live by the 3 sisters, lucky you!

DollarBill · « **Reply #37 on:** October 22, 2008, 01:17:20 pm »

GigaWhiskey - I have to toot my Texas horn and say that the Hill Country is a beautiful place to live with lots of great roads to ride. Anywhere between Kerrville, Vanderpool, Leaky, and Rock Springs is just amazing.

DollarBill · « **Reply #38 on:** October 22, 2008, 05:38:29 pm »

Rectifier question: The rectifier converts power for the purpose of charging the battery....is that correct? For the purposes of just trying to get the bike started is it a necessary piece of equipment?

I ask because I have three days off coming up and buying a rectifier off of eBay means it probably won't get here by then. I want to really try and get some things done on the bike but don't know if this is going to hold me up?

fastbroshi · « **Reply #39 on:** October 22, 2008, 06:16:15 pm »

Hey there, I think these guys should have what you need for your connector if you don't want to pilfer off of another harness:

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Geez, I thought my ground strap was toast...

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #40 on:** October 22, 2008, 08:06:56 pm »

By the way the shell casing has a 54 on it...never heard of a .54....

that, sir is a 7.62x54mm round, used in eastern bloc assault weapons

DollarBill · « **Reply #41 on:** October 22, 2008, 08:18:35 pm »

Ahhhh...a 7 mil huh? Maybe I should incorporate it somehow in my build?

Now who's the dude in your avatar?

DollarBill · « **Reply #42 on:** October 26, 2008, 08:05:46 am »

I now have merged my wiring harnesses together to make one good one with one exception... I only have one positive battery cable and it is completely toast. Are there any issues with buying just any old battery cable and splicing it to the harness?

The last thing I want to do is fry this harness so I just want to be sure. I plan on going to an auto parts store today and picking up a new battery and seeing what they have in the way of cables. I know they won't have exactly what I need but should I look for a certain type of cable thickness? Anything else?

Really? · « **Reply #43 on:** October 26, 2008, 08:50:10 am »

I am curious about this one. I want to replace the battery cables on the k5. The positive looks funky on mine, it is three separate pieces instead of what I would refer to as the normal one piece.

Knowing the gauge size should be important though. I went from a 6 to 4 gauge on my XVZ12DN and cured hot weather starting (it would act like it had no battery left).

Hush · « **Reply #44 on:** October 26, 2008, 09:00:50 am »

Hey Fuzzy, is the Klashnikov shell casing a OEM part or aftermarket?

DollarBill · « **Reply #45 on:** October 26, 2008, 11:41:32 am »

This is the cable in question. From the outside you might think the wires are salvageable but when you roll your fingers over the insulation the wires inside feel like sand and grit. They are definitely roasted completely. Surely a parts store has some wire like this with the insulation.

As for switching out the connectors I was able to use a tiny screwdriver to depress the keeper to remove the pins. It worked pretty well and wasn't too hard...just had to make sure I kept the wires in order when putting it on the new harness.

DollarBill · « **Reply #46 on:** October 28, 2008, 07:09:16 am »

I bought some bits and pieces yesterday to rebuild the battery-to-harness cable

Finished product. FINGERS CROSSED!

I bought a new battery, fuel line, oil, and gas yesterday so hopefully by the end of the day I will attempt to start the bike. AGAIN FINGERS CROSSED!

DollarBill · « **Reply #47 on:** October 29, 2008, 06:29:59 pm »

Today I got the wiring harness all hooked up and tried to fire her up. Nothin' and I mean nothin'... The starter button does nothing... Tried to kick start it and still nothing. I didn't try real hard to kick her over because I want to get the electrical sorted out. I guess I could do a spark plug test to see if there is any spark but right now I want to figure out why the starter doesn't turn.

I did some searching and read that you can kick over the starter solenoid by shorting the ground with a screwdriver. I don't know the actual procedure for this but I did go ahead and try sticking a screwdriver on each of the posts and nothing happened. Anyone want to enlighten me on how to properly do this?

One thing that confused me was where the two black wires from the coils go. I looked in the manual and I looked at Old Man Honda's interactive diagram and it looks like they go to the run/stop switch. The confusing thing is that the wires from the run/stop switch run down to the little box on the front of these F models and the wires from the coils are really long. I think I am missing something because I can't see why they would be so long if they are just going to that little box. Here's a photo of what I am talking about

Another issue that I think is either a ground issue or flasher unit is that the blinkers come on but don't blink and the right front blinker is always on.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #48 on:** October 29, 2008, 06:34:19 pm »

If it's wired anything like the 550s the fronts should be on all the time but not both filaments of course.

DollarBill · « **Reply #49 on:** October 29, 2008, 06:39:35 pm »

I don't know if these are wired like the 550s or not... anyone know the answer to this? I guess they would be termed "running lights" if this is in fact the case??

Another thing I am not sure of is if this model has any safety switches or not???

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Author Topic: 1975 CB750F - Project Yellow Jacket (Read 57804 times)

fuzzybutt