Topic: Ridiculous Project Time...

[fonz]

And so it begins...
Time to start documenting this whole operation, I suppose. I'm finally to the point of putting things together. While they're not the biggest things, there's at least some satisfaction in actually reassembling something instead of simply ripping things apart and sandblasting for powdercoat prep. I'll see what I can get up for pics on here in the days to come...
Here are the current ideas on the board:
*836 kit
*APE crankshaft
*Lightened Rotor
*Shotpeened/Balanced Rods (f2 bolts/nuts)
*Stage 2 (maybe 3) headwork (Kibblewhite valves, springs, retainers, etc.)
*Megacycle 257 cam/adjustable sprocket
*Manual cam chain tensioner (retrofitted with Kawi sprocket instead of #$%*ty wheel)
*Spin-on oil filter/oil cooler fitting adapter
*B&M (or similar) transmission cooler
*Late-model Suzuki hydraulic clutch actuation(with Barnett extra-plate clutch)
*Undercut trans gears
*Starter motor elimination
*Dyna2000 ignition
*CycleX dual-carb setup
*Hardtail dropseat frame
*GSXR1100 inverted fork
*Polished fork caps/STM wingnut-type adjusters
*Ural headlamp bucket/bezel
*Keypad ignition
*'86 GSXR wheels
*Custom tailpiece (will hold keypad and taillight)
*Electronic tach (in headlight bucket)
*Sportster fuel tank
*Adjure headlamp element
*Vandal-proof LED indicators (neutral/oil pressure)
*Clip-on bars
*Radial front brake master cylinder
*4-1 header/Thunderheader collector (heatwrap/ceramic coating combo)
*Dual front brakes (stock '86 Suzi rotors, '93ish Suzi 4-pot calipers)
*240 rear rotor (2-piston Suzi caliper)
*Avon Storm tires (front and rear)
*Solid state rectifier/regulator
-----------------------------------------------------
That's the basic layout for now. The oil tank's a surprise, even to myself.
The majority of the bike will be powdercoated satin black. The fuel tank and tailpiece will be gloss black (tank's already painted). The upper fork tubes have been powdercoated a deep, almost burgundy color. Engine cases, cylinder block, head, and oil pan are at the powdercoater now, and will come back a charcoal color with a slight metalflake. Valve cover and side covers have been ground to a swirly pattern and then clearcoated.
The oil filter will be a standard-issue K&N Harley spin-on (check-valve type) with the drilled nut on the end so I can safety wire it.
I'm going to balance the pistons and rods myself, as I've acquired a Sartorius lab balance (half-gram readability). I'll also lighten/balance the rocker arms, and polish the shafts.

There's an absolute #$%*load of work to still do, but it's coming together slowly but surely. Like I said earlier, it's satisfying to at least get some sub-assemblies put together instead of just disassembling and prepping everything as I've been doing for months (and months, and months).

I'll try keeping this as up-to-date as I can, but I'm not the best at documentation...
Later-
Fonz

[mystic_1]

 


"Ludicrous speed, GO!"




mystic_1

[Cvillechopper]

*picks jaw up from the floor*

It's beautiful!  At least in my head.  I can't wait to see it with my eyes. 

[Klark Kent]

pics

for the love of god pics

-KK

[mlinder]

pics

for the love of god pics

-KK

AYE CAPITAN!!! PICS OR GOD SMITE THEE! AIIEEYYYY!!!

[fonz]

Alright, here are some pictures of what I've got going on with it...
I've got the tach and ignition switch mounted into the headlight, though I can't find the clips to hold the headlamp itself into the bezel... Lame.
The fork tubes are anodized, powdercoated, polished, and assembled, but I had to peen one of the outer tubes. If it doesn't leak in the months to come, I'll run it, otherwise, it's time to find another pair of outers!
The rims are back from the powdercoater, and I mounted the tires. The front's a 120-18, and the rear's a 160-18. Both are Avon Storms.
That's all I've really got sitting in the garage that's very interesting... Everything else is at the powdercoater still, or still in the works.
I did balance the pistons yesterday, and Wiseco had them all to within 0.5g of each other. I was impressed. For those of you who are wondering, the pistons themselves are 161.5g from Wiseco (forged 836).

[DarkRider]

not seein any pics here man lol

[fonz]

The headlight with tach...

[fonz]

The lamp itself...

[fonz]

The fork tubes and wheels/tires...

[COB550]

 :)I love those black wheels it should really set off those forks!

[fonz]

Yeah, the majority of the bike will be satin black. I know the powdercoater, and the stuff's tougher than hell. Easy to clean, all the shades of black match (I'm anal about that stuff), good times all around.

[old750]

The headlight with tach...

ok this headlight looks alot like my Puch 250 headlight. Normally the speedo is the instrument, and the two holes on each side are for a green lens on one side and a red on the other (neutral and ignition) and the ignition key is a Heli key, which were all the same. Looks like it got replaced with a regular key. Am I wrong on this? Where did that headlight bucket come from?

[fonz]

The headlamp bucket's from a Ural, to my knowledge. It did have a km/h Russian speedo in it, along with the tractor-like ignition switch/idiot lights. I've replaced the switch with one from a cb350, and recessed it so that the finial cover will still fit over the top of it.
The idiot light lenses will be replaced by Bulgin vandal-proof LEDs, red and green as before.

[fonz]

3/31 Update-
I've been doing more cleaning and organizing in the garage than anything else, really. My dad's bringing his Shovel up for me to rebuild the motor on, so room has to be made...
Anyway, last Thursday I polished the rocker shafts on my complex jig I made. It's a little tough to comprehend at first, I know, but I'm sure the discerning minds out there can figure it out. 
I also ordered the Bulgin LEDs, and found the appropriate bearings for the wheels on eBay, finally.

[JLeather]

From a performance standpoint I think you'll be disappointed with the dual-carb setup.  4 individually tuneable carbs are better for a motor like the one you're putting together.  I'm going with Kawi Z1 carbs on my 836 build this spring.  Just my opinion

[fonz]

4/27 Update:
So the combination of rebuilding/pinstriping the drill press and doing the Shovel motor has been taking up most of my garage time lately...
I've gotten most of the parts powdercoated now, and they look great. I'll try to snap a few pics of the cases, but I don't think the digital camera can really do them justice.
The LED indicators are in the headlight bucket now, and I've started making up the Deutsch plugs for this whole mess. The '98+ style Deutsch plugs that Harley used are pretty small, and are still waterproof like the larger styles.
I've also found a newer set of fork tubes (the whole forks, actually. now i've got spares), the 'tail' section/trunk from a 2007 f650gs Dakar that I'll be using as a tailpiece, a rear brake pedal from the same BMW, a good front axle for the gsxr front end, and the stock titanium pegs from a new yz250f.
As I'm sitting here at my desk, I just heard that there's a package for me in the office, so let's see what that could be...

[casanova]

hey bud i've read that the under cut trans gears are the way to go in 836's . i'm building one now and i can't qquite visualize what is meant be undercut , is there any way that perphaps you could post some pics of the cut gears ? 

[mystic_1]

Undercutting involves re-shaping the gear's engagement dogs and also the slots that they mate with.  Instead of meeting at a square surface, they are re-shaped so that they engage at a slight angle.  Torque from the engine will then tend to pull the gears together, keeping them from slipping out of gear.

mystic_1

[eurban]

I would venture to say that most who build 836 motors do not go to the extreme of having their gears undercut.  My 836 runs very strong and yet does not pop out of gear.  IMO, use parts that are in good shape and spend your money elsewhere.

[fonz]

I'm not having 'most' people build my bike, either. 

[eurban]

Right, but you are putting your ideas "on the board," and I was suggesting to Cassanova that undercut gears are not required for a performance build. It is also typically an expensive process.   I see your engine project list has "matured" a bit since you first put it here and presumably this was as at least in part as a result of info gained in these forums. . . . Consider adding HD studs and cam chain to the engine list and dropping the the cyclex carbs and using Keihin CR carbs.  These will be well matched to your engine which is presumably being built to make high RPM power.   Also the extra plate clutch kit (probably not to be found through Barnett unless NOS, but rather currently being made by APE) isn't necessary for putting extra HP to the wheels and has some drawbacks due to the increased stack height and incompatibility with the late 750 clutches (if this is an issue, somewhere around 75 and later)  Heavy duty clutch springs and good condition stock clutch parts (plates bead blasted perhaps) will handle your power.  Read up on upgrades to improve clutch oiling if you like. . .

[eurban]

delete

[fonz]

Right, but you are putting your ideas "on the board," and I was suggesting to Cassanova that undercut gears are not required for a performance build. It is also typically an expensive process.   I see your engine project list has "matured" a bit since you first put it here and presumably this was as at least in part as a result of info gained in these forums. . . . Consider adding HD studs and cam chain to the engine list and dropping the the cyclex carbs and using Keihin CR carbs.  These will be well matched to your engine which is presumably being built to make high RPM power.   Also the extra plate clutch kit (probably not to be found through Barnett unless NOS, but rather currently being made by APE) isn't necessary for putting extra HP to the wheels and has some drawbacks due to the increased stack height and incompatibility with the late 750 clutches (if this is an issue, somewhere around 75 and later)  Heavy duty clutch springs and good condition stock clutch parts (plates bead blasted perhaps) will handle your power.  Read up on upgrades to improve clutch oiling if you like. . .

I do realize that they're not completely necessary, but they can't hurt, right? I remember this thing slipping out from time to time when it was still together, and I'd rather have a set of gears that I know have been done correctly. Granted, finding a perfect set of gears would work fine, but I don't really have time or the money to spend on finding/buying gears that may/may not be suitable.
I was already planning on using the HD studs, and have the cam chain already.
The carbs I'm still undecided about, but I think the cyclex setup may be more compatible with my frame. We'll see when the time comes.
The motor's a 74, so I should be covered if I were to run the extra plate, but this, too may still change. I've spoken with Barnett, and can get however many plates I need. I've sandblasted plates before, but if there's a better way of doing it, I'd rather at least try. It's only a clutch; there are bigger things to have to modify if it comes down to it.
Should I also state that I'm familiar with increasing the oil flow regarding the clutch?
The plan for the rods has changed, you're right. Aside from that, everything's still on course...

[bigsherm]

Hey Fonz-

     How about an update?  Hop you didn't stop posting due to some people telling you they'd do it a different way, blah, blah.  You seem like the type who knows what he wants and does it!

     Let's see some updates of the Ridiculous project!

Sherm