Topic: CB550F - Tricks / Tips To Mount Carbs

[m-cman]

I have a 1975 CB550F and just rebuilt the carbs.  However, I am having a terrible time getting them back on the bike.  Are there any tips or tricks to doing this? I've gone so far as removing the air box but that presents more problems in installation.  Please help!!!   

[super pasty white guy]

Without new, soft carb insulators, I've used some silicone lubricant on the boots and carbs, and pulled them on using a large pair of slipjoint pliers.  A band clamp also works well too.

spwg

[mkramer1121]

Air box should be removed.  Have 2 insulators on the carbs and 2 on the engine.  Should go on fairly easy.

As for reinstalling the airbox, have the intake taken off of the box.  mount the intake w/ rubbers on the carbs, then reinsert the box in frame and bolt it up.

[Mule Train]

also you can use a hair dryer and heat up the boots to soften them a bit, but really take the boots off the bike and mount them on the carbs then back on to the motor

[robermcm]

There has to be a Honda shop trick to remounting.  My 75 cb550k took over an hour, I bent up the clamps and wanted to break something just to stop the frustration!  I need to remove them this winter and was thinking that maybe I'd get some advantage in removing the four cast ports bolted to the head.  If they can slide on without much left/right wiggling, then you could mount to the airbox and bolt the ports to the head as the last step. 

Dunno, wouldn't mind an ex Honda mechanic to chime in on this.

[TwoTired]

I've written up the removal and installation procedure several times in past threads for the 550.
High points...

1.  The rear band clamps get removed completely during install/removal.

2.  The filter box and air plenum do NOT get removed.  However, the filter box mount bolts do get removed allowing bother the filter and the air plenum to move back against the frame.

You will need to avail yourself of the rear couplers compliance during carb movement.  Hardened ones make this far more chalenging, however the stiffness of the band clamps makes this way difficult.  That's why you remove them.
You use the rear face of the front couplers as a bearing surface while moving the carb bank.  Doesn't hurt to have some silicone spray to ease movement.
Watch out for snags on the rear couplers to avoid tearing them.  A right angle scribe with the point dulled helps move the rear couplers where they cause hang-ups.

I can remove and install a carb bank in the time it took to write this up.  (I do type slow, though.)  There is still some wrestling.  But, it is methodically forthright.

Cheers,

[m-cman]

TwoTired,

I did several searches and couldn't find your writeup.  Could you post a link or ? so I can copy and print the total procedure? I am still having problems. Thanks.

[TwoTired]

Here's one of them..
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5704.msg48277#msg48277

[m-cman]

Thanks for the info.  Will give it a try over the weekend.

[crazypj]

There has to be a Honda shop trick to remounting. 

Dunno, wouldn't mind an ex Honda mechanic to chime in on this.

I'm 'former' Honda mechanic

 I get the feeling they just built the frame around the engine 
 The only way I know is same as Twotired described
PJ

[KingCustomCycles.com]

I've written up the removal and installation procedure several times in past threads for the 550.
High points...

1.  The rear band clamps get removed completely during install/removal.

2.  The filter box and air plenum do NOT get removed.  However, the filter box mount bolts do get removed allowing bother the filter and the air plenum to move back against the frame.

You will need to avail yourself of the rear couplers compliance during carb movement.  Hardened ones make this far more chalenging, however the stiffness of the band clamps makes this way difficult.  That's why you remove them.
You use the rear face of the front couplers as a bearing surface while moving the carb bank.  Doesn't hurt to have some silicone spray to ease movement.
Watch out for snags on the rear couplers to avoid tearing them.  A right angle scribe with the point dulled helps move the rear couplers where they cause hang-ups.

I can remove and install a carb bank in the time it took to write this up.  (I do type slow, though.)  There is still some wrestling.  But, it is methodically forthright.

Cheers,

+1 with the additional comment that you may be able to work from inside the airbox to shove the couplers out and into their grooves.  I would estimate there are easily 100 tips and tricks to doing Honda carb installs and I have used many.  I may take the time to write them all when the snow falls here.  Right now my shop is overflowing, I just got married, and my professor job is ramping up.  Stay tuned.

[TwoTired]

The Cb550 couplers are glued into the air plenum by the factory.  They aren't *supposed* to be removable.  However, if you do a gorilla imitation, they *will* come out.

Cheers,

[m-cman]

Thanks to all for the responses. Right now I need a few carb parts.  All for stock 1975 CB550F carbs. I need a #3 (left to right while sitting on the bike) carb float bowl (broke the overflow tube at the inside base  ). Also need some of those springs that keep the main jet from falling out. What are they called anyway?

Is there a source for these parts? None on eBay right now.

Thanks again...

[jason teamshralp]

I seem to only be able to get my carbs in from the right side of the bike. They for some reason will not go in from the left. Just my 2 cents. so make sure to try each side.

[Deltarider]

I seem to only be able to get my carbs in from the right side of the bike. They for some reason will not go in from the left.

+1

[SteveD CB500F]

I've put TT's instructions in the Carb FAQ.