Topic: One More Chapter in the Epic Story That is "THE PHOENIX"

[mystic_1]

Solution to the "doesn't go with rest of bike" issue:

Make more twisty stuff to bolt on.   

Brace looks fantastic.

mystic_1

[Spikeybike]

Solution to the "doesn't go with rest of bike" issue:

Make more twisty stuff to bolt on.   

Brace looks fantastic.

mystic_1

the kick stand is  ...but i didn't do nearly as good as the brace.    and who ever notices a kick stand 

edited to add this pic, witch is really old (from the first build thread)

[Really?]

the kick stand is  ...but i didn't do nearly as good as the brace.    and who ever notices a kick stand 

I would.  i still need to have it shortened, lol.

[Spikeybike]

tore apart my head last night to get the valve springs for my new head,
and i was wondering,  does this look like normal wear

the rockers are NOS and the cam is new as well, i think i did about 700-1000 miles on um









and it also seems i have some more carb tuning to do

[TwoTired]

Is your cam cover new style (4 shafts) or old style (8 shafts)?

Have you checked for rocker arm shaft cam cover wear?

Cheers,

[Spikeybike]

Is your cam cover new style (4 shafts) or old style (8 shafts)?

old style

Have you checked for rocker arm shaft cam cover wear?

Cheers,

yes, i had it bore gauged years ago, it was well within spec, the cam journals look ok as well


i'm only concerned because i haven't seen a new one break in ever , this could all be normal for all i know

[Spikeybike]

for those that dont know this trick , when lapping valves , mark the seat of the valve with a dry erase marker to check the contact surface. then you know how much to lap 
  before


  after


 got my cam degreed in , but i did it kinda half assed (but not really)

once i figured out were true TDC was, set the valve at .040" (zero lash).  checked the wheel ..... it reads 11 degrees ...i think to myself "there is no way i got that right on the first try"   

i have a slotted sprocket , i just set the cam at the stock mark, put the sprocket on and tightened it, BAM first try

i checked it 3 times to make sure ...guess i just got lucky.  or i've had this motor apart so many times my subconscious just knew where the sprocket needed to be   

either way it's a done deal , ported head is on , cam is timed, valves are set.   now i'm got back out and put the carbs back on

check out my high class dial indicator holder,   


i cant believe i got it on the first try       "oh he's a little impressed with myself , don't mind him"

[scondon]

  Nice indicator base, Spikey. Forget those high-falootin' magnetic base contraptions with hand knob tighteners, real men use wrenches

   Do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and set-up/measure the exhaust valve lift as well. My Megacycle cam was spot on the mark and yours may be too, but it is peace of mind and well worth knowing that the cam is dialed in in case you have tuning troubles down the line.

  Keep them pics comin'

[bwaller]

Do your lobe centers match the timing card? Megacycle advertizes 105 degree LC's for that cam now, actually all the data is different.

[Spikeybike]

actually all the data is different.

uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuh  what?

[Spikeybike]

CAM VALVE DURATION LOBE INTAKE OPEN/CLOSE RUNNING
NUMBER LIFT AT .040" CENTERS DESCRIPTION AND APPLICATION EXHAUST OPEN/CLOSE CLEARANCE
126-00 .296" .240° 105° OK with stock piston and springs. 15 btc/45 abc .004"
.280" 240° 105° Improved mid-range and top-end. 45 bbc/15 atc .005

i tried to cut and paste but it's all broken up , but you can get the idea 

this is odd, even the running clearance is different

[Spikeybike]

CAM      VALVE    DURATION     LOBE                   INTAKE OPEN/CLOSE       RUNNING
NUMBER   LIFT       AT .040"    CENTERS              EXHAUST OPEN/CLOSE   CLEARANCE
126-00   .296"         .240°         105° .                   15 btc/45 abc            .004"
             .280"          240°          105°                     45 bbc/15 atc           .005
 

this is odd, even the running clearance is different

the major difference i see in the numbers is the open/close are no longer staggered by 1 degree  (if you look at my timing card )

[bwaller]

Maybe just a change in profile from your cam I suppose. By your card the date says 2000, but also says revised timing??

[Spikeybike]

thats most likely it , i bought it in 01 or 02 i think




edit:  i had to replace the cam in 05 (there was a little mishap with me putting my cam chain guide in backwards )

and the card they sent the second time is the one you see 

[bwaller]

I'm with scondon, check the exhaust numbers before you button it up.

[Spikeybike]

intake is 11  exhaust is 53 ?      not sure if there is some human error in there , but if there isn't i suppose there isn't much i can do about it .
i didn't have time to check it again, i'll go over it again when i get home tonight ,,

along with some other little things i wanna do

[scondon]

 Looks like you are right there Spikey. You can either fudge the cam 1/2 degree or leave it as is(in my opinion). Pretty damn good for a "drop in" with a slotted cam sprocket  

    My Megacycle cam was spot on intake and one degree high on exhaust and it screams

[MCRider]

Looks like you are right there Spikey. You can either fudge the cam 1/2 degree or leave it as is(in my opinion). Pretty damn good for a "drop in" with a slotted cam sprocket  

    My Megacycle cam was spot on intake and one degree high on exhaust and it screams

And so...what's the alternative, or likely best setting. Leave Intake spot on and take what Exhaust gives you? Split the difference? Or experiment, likely with a Dyno and the purpose of the slotted sprocket anyway?

I'll be doing this someday myself.

[scondon]

Looks like you are right there Spikey. You can either fudge the cam 1/2 degree or leave it as is(in my opinion). Pretty damn good for a "drop in" with a slotted cam sprocket  

    My Megacycle cam was spot on intake and one degree high on exhaust and it screams

And so...what's the alternative, or likely best setting. Leave Intake spot on and take what Exhaust gives you? Split the difference? Or experiment, likely with a Dyno and the purpose of the slotted sprocket anyway?

I'll be doing this someday myself.

   My experience with cam timing is limited to two bikes with different cams. On one bike(megacycle cam) I went by just the open/close #'s and left the exhaust 1 degree off and intake spot on and the engine screams. The second bike(Webcam) had a f##ked timing card so I learned how to measure lobe centers as well and retarded the cam 2 degrees from spec and the engine screamed. Neither bike suffered from bad idle which may be associated with a poorly timed cam.

   In Spikey's case I believe it would really be splitting very fine hairs to move the cam from where it is, in regards to performance difference. I have yet to get a cam to match the card EXACTLY but I enjoy learning the process so I tend to measure,move, remeasure a lot.

  Heads that have been "decked" will change cam timing and a slotted sprocket, at the very least, allows one to move cam timing back to where it should be.

   I mostly just regurgitate what Mrieck has taught me, along with my limited experience, so I will defer to him and other "pro's" for the tough questions

[Spikeybike]

    My Megacycle cam was spot on intake and one degree high on exhaust and it screams

that makes me fell better ,    not sure how different this setting is from what i had before, but the bike ran like a raped ape before, 

i'm more anxious about the ported head then i am about timing the cam ......   coooome on spring!!!

[bwaller]

Just to be clear Spikey, the intake valve opens @ 11 degrees BTDC and the exhaust valve opens @53 degrees BBDC?

For fun it would be good to know the closing numbers for both the intake ABDC as well as the exhaust ATDC, that way you can determine lobe centers, duration, etc.

I still wonder why Megacycle advertizes LC's of 105 on their site but send a timing card showing numbers way higher. Real world fiqures forced them to alter the card, or is it a completely different cam profile from the one advertized?

[MCRider]

Looks like you are right there Spikey. You can either fudge the cam 1/2 degree or leave it as is(in my opinion). Pretty damn good for a "drop in" with a slotted cam sprocket  

    My Megacycle cam was spot on intake and one degree high on exhaust and it screams

And so...what's the alternative, or likely best setting. Leave Intake spot on and take what Exhaust gives you? Split the difference? Or experiment, likely with a Dyno and the purpose of the slotted sprocket anyway?

I'll be doing this someday myself.

   My experience with cam timing is limited to two bikes with different cams. On one bike(megacycle cam) I went by just the open/close #'s and left the exhaust 1 degree off and intake spot on and the engine screams. The second bike(Webcam) had a f##ked timing card so I learned how to measure lobe centers as well and retarded the cam 2 degrees from spec and the engine screamed. Neither bike suffered from bad idle which may be associated with a poorly timed cam.

   In Spikey's case I believe it would really be splitting very fine hairs to move the cam from where it is, in regards to performance difference. I have yet to get a cam to match the card EXACTLY but I enjoy learning the process so I tend to measure,move, remeasure a lot.

  Heads that have been "decked" will change cam timing and a slotted sprocket, at the very least, allows one to move cam timing back to where it should be.

   I mostly just regurgitate what Mrieck has taught me, along with my limited experience, so I will defer to him and other "pro's" for the tough questions

Thanks. That's all i need to know for now. When the time comes, I'll raise the question again, maybe Mike will chime in.

[Spikeybike]

i took that brace off and chopped it up and remounted it behind the forks , much better i think






man i can't wait to see this motor in the sunlight

[mkramer1121]

man i can't wait to see this motor in the sunlight

your missing a tappet cover...

[Spikeybike]

your missing a swift kick to the shin