Topic: Single throttle cable vs. Dual

[cafe2be]

Any of you guys just running single pull cable and no push cables? I am interested in doing this. The only down fall I can see is if the linkage binds up. Then again if that happens really cant see a push cable resolving the problem.
Pros:
CLeaner look
Less cable

[crazypj]

I haven't used the closing cable since 1978.
They are both pull cables, one pulls open, the other pulls closed.
 If anyone lets linkages get so bad or out of adjustment they need the closing cable, in my opinion, they get what they deserve
PJ

[MCRider]

I haven't used the closing cable since 1978.
They are both pull cables, one pulls open, the other pulls closed.
 If anyone lets linkages get so bad or out of adjustment they need the closing cable, in my opinion, they get what they deserve
PJ

+1 on that. The "B" cable known euphimistacally as the "push" cable is a legal creation for liability purposes. Real men don't use them.

The bike in my Avatar had a Tomaselli 1/4 turn quick throttle. No "B" cable there.

You should check your linkages every ride like a pilot. Snap the throttle, look under the tank, push the pedals, pull the levers, check the lights, all OK, go ride.

Or so I think.

[Johnny5]

I have a 77 750 and the tension has been a lot easier to twist since removing the push cable. If I had an issue with the throttle sticking or something, there's always the kill switch.

Keep the cable lubed and avoid binding and you'll be fine.

[cafe2be]

Thank you for the Answers!!! Anyone need a brand new push cable?

[goon 1492]

I am thinkin about takin my push cable off as to its grabbing from being so old. I figured the same thing about if it(the throttle) sticks just like in a car or truck (already been there) if throttle sticks kill engine, put it in nutral(AFTER KILLING ENGINE!!!) and simply apply the brakes to a stop. I also repeat kill the engine before putting it in nutral, even if its a stick shift it beats blowing up the motor because of prematurely pulling in the clutch or kicking it into nutral before killing thre motor.

[eldar]

Guess you all need mechanic school. I still have both cables and my throttle turns as easy as it does on my wifes 2003 rebel. It actually rotates almost too easy now. Stock return spring too. I see no benefit to removing the cable but there IS a benefit to having it. Say your primary cable breaks, with the extra one, you can rig up a temp to get home. All for what, an extra ounce of strength required for the throttle?

[goon 1492]

Eldar always the wise guy, I bet if I replaced my 32 yr old cables they would work like new..... Someone let me borrow the cash please.......

[eldar]

I did that 2 years ago. then this summer I lubed them! Just a SLIGHT difference

[MCRider]

Guess you all need mechanic school. I still have both cables and my throttle turns as easy as it does on my wifes 2003 rebel. It actually rotates almost too easy now. Stock return spring too. I see no benefit to removing the cable but there IS a benefit to having it. Say your primary cable breaks, with the extra one, you can rig up a temp to get home. All for what, an extra ounce of strength required for the throttle?

You are keerect. Old or new, 1 cable or two, controls should always work smoothly and effortlessly (except for the return spring).

One cable may look better on a custom, but if one is using the stock switchgear, might as well have both.

[eldar]

Yeah if I had a single carb or even a dual, then I would probably do just one cable. I do like the backup of 2. you never know when one will snap. Not all damage is visible.

[dp2275]

while on the topic of throttles...how tough are your throttles to turn?

my throttle feels pretty heavy.  you need to have some balls to twist that baby 

the carbs were all just rebuilt and the linkages were all readjusted and everything is lubed up.  everything moves freely when off the bike (both carbs and cable move freely)...im almost positive that the throttle return spring is where most of the 'heavy throttle' feel comes from..everything returns freely and quickly but it just feels like theres a 5lb weight on the end of the cable.  doesnt really feel like any other bike ive owned but ive also never ridden a cb.

[eldar]

you have to exercise your forearm!
That is how mine felt till I lubed my cables. But how old are your cables? If they are pretty old, then get new ones. They are most likely worn inside and lube will not fix that.

[dp2275]

you have to exercise your forearm!
That is how mine felt till I lubed my cables. But how old are your cables? If they are pretty old, then get new ones. They are most likely worn inside and lube will not fix that.

good to hear.  im not a weak guy by any means, so that must indicate that i need a new cable 

dont know how old the cable is as i picked up the bike 2 months ago from a friend.  shes been sitting for atleast 2 yrs but id assume the cable may be older than me   

[MCRider]

you have to exercise your forearm!
That is how mine felt till I lubed my cables. But how old are your cables? If they are pretty old, then get new ones. They are most likely worn inside and lube will not fix that.

good to hear.  im not a weak guy by any means, so that must indicate that i need a new cable 

dont know how old the cable is as i picked up the bike 2 months ago from a friend.  shes been sitting for atleast 2 yrs but id assume the cable may be older than me   

If it hurts to hold it open, that's the return spring and you need to exercize. If it hurts to turn it, (or it has a crunchy feel etc.) that's the cable and while you may still need exercize, the cable is suspect. It should feel smooooth. Removal, hanging vertically, and soaking first with penetrating oil for days, to rinse out the rust, (it should drip on the floor, work it occasionally) then with lubricating oil, may help. But if its been sitting and has rusted too much internally or is worn as mentioned, replacement is about the only way.

[goon 1492]

you have to exercise your forearm!
That is how mine felt till I lubed my cables. But how old are your cables? If they are pretty old, then get new ones. They are most likely worn inside and lube will not fix that.

OK eldar, I am known in the shop I work at for having popeye forarms, so if i had to I could probably snap the cable by pulling to hard  , I mean like how I can crush two wallnuts in my hand  (really handy this time of year  ) but anyhoo I am going to take your advise since mine is in pieces right now I will take that cables out and lube them up after soaking them with some pb blaster, would 3 in 1 oil be sufficent to lube them with?

see pieces....

[Johnny5]

I like the PJ cable lube. Works very well.

[eldar]

Cable lube is usually suggested but I suspect 3in1 would be fine too. It is a pretty light oil and I have never seen it dissolve anything.

[lordmoonpie]

For the second yes SECOND time this year I'm gonna agree with young Eldar! 

Two cables are great for safety and security - I had a perfectly good tacho cable - tested a new tacho with it yesterday and it simply sheared and that's *just* the tacho cable. I run dual cables on my Black Bomber and 750 and they're as light as a feather as long as they are adjusted right and lubed right. Olive Oil could turn the throttle let alone Popeye!

Putoline cable lube for me - slick!

[stresssolutions]

So where do you guys buy your cables?  I thought I saw "motion pro" but when I click 77 Honda 750A it only brings up choke and speedo at the motion pro website.  I've seen a couple on ebay, but....I worry that it is what they say it is.  (Got stung on some camera batteries)  Motion Pro has the throttle sleeve thing, too.

Mine has only the one throttle cable, with no sign but a hole on the bar/grip/throttle that there may have been a second.  Have not looked around the carbs enough to determine....

thoughts, opinions please?  thanks

[markjenn]

I'd bet that most of you suggesting that the 2nd cable is just for sissies have never had a throttle jam on a motorcycle.  With the power-to-weight ratio of even something like a CB750 and if the RPMs are up and you're in a lower gear, the thing will get away from you before you have the where-with-all to find the kill switch.  It can happen almost instantaneously and JUST LIKE THAT, you're in the big trouble.

It's a good safety system.  That's not to say it is absolutely necessary, but if it is there and working properly, it is silly to remove it.  If its not working properly, I'd first suggest fixing it.

- Mark

[754]

If I cant open mine with 2 fingers I get worried..

My carbs run ballbearings on the throttle shafts and are not lifting slides.

When i did run the stock rack of cabs on a CB750, I usually ran 1 cable. Oiling cables once or ywice a year is pretty important if you want good results..

[mrbreeze]

Sign me up for the single cable also.My bike came with 2 cables when I got it in 2000 and it was hard to turn.I ditched the push cable and replaced the pull cable.Its been fine every since. Hell...I can't even run a push cable anymore!! I went to Yami 650 controls and only have one hole coming out of my right hand control. I have never heard of a throttle jamming up or a return spring breaking. If you keep the cable lubed and kink free.....how can there be a problem? I have always felt that Honda (and others) went way overboard with safety (which might not be a bad thing for unexperienced riders). The oversized light tower of a tail light....the clutch safety switch,etc.,etc.

[Deltarider]

The original tefloncoated Honda cables should not be lubed.

[mrbreeze]

I've heard that before.....probably on this forum. I use aftermarket cables (Motion-Pro) and lube them a couple of times a year.I wonder if the stockers actually have a label on them when new advising not to lube.