Author Topic: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'  (Read 76866 times)

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Offline leekellerking

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #125 on: March 28, 2009, 10:03:50 pm »
I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I went with a rebuilt unit from Custom Rewind in Birmingham, Alabama (www.customrewind.com).  I went with Gary on the suggestion of Tony Weeks at www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com and I have been very happy with the service  from Custom Rewind, and the rotor.


Lee

So my question is... if we find the rotor to be at fault, do we simply have it rebuilt? I think that would be better and easier than trying to get an NOS one. I'm actually thinking it's the rotor but I'm not ruling out a 2nd culprit since the electrics are so old. Along those lines and for peace of mind, I'm thinking replace the R/R as well with a newer, better technology than the original setup. I would like to find one that starts charging at a much lower RPM. I know in it's present state, it's probably "ok" but while we have it apart and testing, just do it. I'm all about preventative maintenance and thinking ahead.
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #126 on: March 28, 2009, 10:28:40 pm »
So my question is... if we find the rotor to be at fault, do we simply have it rebuilt? I think that would be better and easier than trying to get an NOS one.
Choices;  Repair what you have (if possible), have it rebuilt, exchange it for a rebuilt one, replace with a used good one, replace with a new one.
I'd likely find and use the least expensive rotor, should that be the culprit.

I'm thinking replace the R/R as well with a newer, better technology than the original setup. I would like to find one that starts charging at a much lower RPM. I know in it's present state, it's probably "ok" but while we have it apart and testing, just do it. I'm all about preventative maintenance and thinking ahead.
From this statement, I'm guessing you don't understand what the components do.  The R/Rs job is the sense the battery state and tell the alternator tho back down when the battery is full.  It has NO RPM information and doesn't care about RPM, only battery charge state.  The very best the R/R can do is place full battery voltage (whatever that is) on the the alternator's electromagnet (rotor).
The amount of power the alternator can make DOES rely on RPM as well as whatever magnetic strength the rotor is capable of producing.  If the battery is low and the R/R is feeding all available power to the rotor, it is helpless to make the alternator produce any more power than it does.   "Modern", "newer" or "better technology" has little to do with it.  If you want more power from the alternator component, change the alternator.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
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Offline Pinhead

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #127 on: March 29, 2009, 11:27:27 am »
Just one question, MickeyX, have you seen the link in my sig??
Doug

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Offline Spanner 1

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #128 on: March 29, 2009, 05:31:25 pm »
Mickey, I know your frustrated by the charging system not ' kicking-in ' until higher rpm., but unfortunately the alternator is designed so that at idle rpm's it's only putting-out maybe 6 or 7 volts and useless to help the battery charge until the regulator senses voltage higher than the battery voltage and then connects the alt.( which won't happen until higher revs ), so the deal about 'Widening the spectrum of the alternator's output '  would have no positive effect on trying to charge the battery more quickly or at lower rpms.......
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #129 on: March 29, 2009, 06:14:39 pm »
From what little info I can gather and without knowing the intricate details some of you have at your disposal, it looks like it gets varying amounts of voltage from the stator coil based on RPM. We know the alternator is good (I will still be testing it anyway) or we wouldn’t be getting any charge at all.
Not to be anal about this.  But, every part has a function.  Both stator and rotor are part of the alternator.  Both are needed to make power in this system.  The stator make power based on the amount of magnetic lines of flux that cross it's windings.  The rotor makes the magnetic field in a specific pattern of North/ South orientations.  The revolutions move these patterns, so the stator windings see changing lines of flux crossing the stator windings.  Both the magnitude and the frequency of these flux crossings, determine the output of the stator voltage peaks and frequency intervals, which the rectifier converts to DC and the battery itself smooths out the ripples.
You do NOT know if Kit's alternator is good.  The stator probably is.  But, the only test data I have in hand says the rotor is highly suspect.  The rotor, which is part of the alternator, has yet to be proven.  Therefore, you can not make the statement that the alternator is good.  And, before you cry "Semantics", be aware that there are no variables in electrical physics that contain semantics.  (At least not at the level we are talking about regarding SOHC4s where supercoolers aren't part of the operating environment.)   ;D

Now we have DC voltage, but it’s probably a little bouncy so it seems they put in capacitors to smooth it out a little more.
The battery itself provides the output ripple smoothing.  It behaves similar to capacitors in this regard.  (It is actually an impedance calculation which involves capacitance, inductance and resistive elements and interacts with the frequency component of the line level applied.)

As you guys have stated, the regulator system puts out an approx max of 14.5v so we don’t fry the battery.
While there are different types of regulators.  The SOHC4 system doesn't work this way.  The rectifier portion delivers voltage/power to the battery.  The regulator only provides power to the >>alternator rotor or magnetic field generator<< based upon the battery's needs.  The alternator puts out power at a level corresponding to its RPM and the regulator's distribution of battery power to the alternator's magnetic field generator.

It looks like a zener diode is in there, in series with a resistor. (for overflow voltage? probably helps it not melt so easily too.) The load (battery) is in parallel with the zener diode. Being in parallel, that is how it "probes" to see if it is low, I assume? For a zener, (stepping into the way, way, way back machine in my brain now) we need to reach it’s breakover voltage for it to conduct. Anything over it's max is routed over to the resistor to handle. As the input voltage changes, the output voltage should, as long as it’s above the breakover for the zener, remain pretty even.

While I have seen regulators that work in fashion you describe.  (Dumping excess power into a heat sink.)  The SOHC4 regulator does not.  It throttles back the alternator only when the battery might be damaged by overcharge.  In all other cases, the alternator puts out all it is capable of making at the RPM it is spinning.

My big thing is… why do we have to rev these things up to 4-5,000 to get charging? If the alternator is cranking out what I think it is, then why aren't we using it? Is there a way set it up where you can start charging at an output voltage from the alternator at just above idle speed? I need to see what the output voltage is at that speed compared to a higher rev to answer that one for myself.
These questions likely arise from your misunderstanding of how the SOHC4 regulator/alternator actually functions.

You have to rev the alternator because its output is not constant or linear with RPM.  It has a peak output graph that looks similar to an engine power output curve.  The engine makes no power at zero RPM, neither does the alternator.  The engine makes minimal power at idle. So, does the Alternator. REV it up and you get more power from both, and each has it's limit or peak on the curve.

BTW, we have just found a local guy who makes his R/Rs to do just that. It utilizes more of the spectrum. That’s all I was saying. If you need more detail, it will have to wait until I’m done checking the entire system again. I didn't get to study what he's doing differently and, as I said before, I don't have a detailed schematic on the current system to reference. I'm going by the meager drawings that are in the manual Kit has and what I've picked up through osmosis during her build.
The zener diode based regulator shunts excess power from the generating device.  This type of regulator is more common with generators that have a permanent magnet instead of an controllable electromagnet like what is found on the SOHC4.  The only operating regime where the SOHC4 alternator makes excess power is when the battery is overcharging, and the system is at fault.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline leekellerking

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #130 on: March 29, 2009, 06:47:19 pm »
Aw, the "no charge at low revs" think isn't bad. It gives me an excuse or running Bikey through the gears and keeping the revs up. ;D

Seriously, it is doable.  I only put my bike on the battery tender about once a week (except in the winter).  So far, so good and I'm still running the battery I have discharged several times.


Lee

Mickey, I know your frustrated by the charging system not ' kicking-in ' until higher rpm., but unfortunately the alternator is designed so that at idle rpm's it's only putting-out maybe 6 or 7 volts and useless to help the battery charge until the regulator senses voltage higher than the battery voltage and then connects the alt.( which won't happen until higher revs ), so the deal about 'Widening the spectrum of the alternator's output '  would have no positive effect on trying to charge the battery more quickly or at lower rpms.......
« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 06:48:50 pm by leekellerking »
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Offline mystic_1

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #131 on: March 29, 2009, 07:00:06 pm »
In other words, our regulators modulate alternator output by varying the input voltage supplied to the field coil.  An excited-field alternator can be conceptualized like a sort of step-up transformer in this regard.

The determining factors in what the alternator puts out at a given RPM are input power, and the ratios of the windings in the alternator coils.  Only way to increase output is to increase input power or have the coils re-wound.

If you're looking at the parts from http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com, they seem to be popular with other members of the site.  They don't change how the system works, though, and don't 650's already have electronic reg/rect units?  The oregonmotorcycleparts is adjustable iirc, so that's an advantage.  This might be a good idea but my feeling is that the regulator isn't the problem (or rather the only problem) here.

But really, I'm just a software guy in real life, I may be completely wrong.  :)

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Offline leekellerking

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #132 on: March 29, 2009, 07:33:34 pm »
Kit:

Not to beat a dead horse, but I am quite happy with the service Tony Weeks at oregonmotorcycleparts.com gave me, and with his product.  Tony went above and beyond my expectations and kept trying to help me troubleshoot (by e-mail) even when it became obvious that my bike's electrical problems were not caused by a bad reg/rec (he even took back the unit he sold me, tested it, cleaned it up and sent it back to me with a clean bill of sale).

Drop Tony an e-mail and ask him or help.  I am sure he will do what he can to help you troubleshoot the bike.

Lee



If you're looking at the parts from http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com, they seem to be popular with other members of the site.  They don't change how the system works, though, and don't 650's already have electronic reg/rect units?  The oregonmotorcycleparts is adjustable iirc, so that's an advantage.  This might be a good idea but my feeling is that the regulator isn't the problem (or rather the only problem) here.
\
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Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #133 on: March 29, 2009, 08:46:08 pm »
We tested the system again tonight, but I'm having a rough time understanding my results. 
Testing the rotor's resistance when cold, the sliprings measured 4.3 ohms.  the wiring from the brushes to the black and white spades at the RR measured .6 ohms.  That's a lot of resistance for wiring, but w/e, for now. 

Mickey took the bike for a ride.  Came back and bike was verrrry slow to restart, as per usual.  voltage read 12.4 while the bike was running, voltage went up to 14.6 when revved to 5k.
Well, that's good.

Turned it off @ the switch.  Tried to start it.  Voltage dropped to 8.64 while cranking. That's some serious draw. Bike started but ran pretty rough. Probably because the spark wasn't as strong? batt. voltage was down to 11.8.

Shut the bike down again.

Disconnected the alternator from the RR.  Tested resistance between the yellow wires.  0.8v, all the way across.

Connected each of the yellow wires in turn to one lead, the other to the case.  OL every time.
That's good.

Switched the multimeter to AC voltage and connected the multimeter leads to two of the yellow leads to test vAC generated by the stator.  Here's where the weirdness was.
Started the engine and revved it up to 5k. The result was 0.9v.  That's weird.
Switched to another yellow lead.   0.8v.  wtf?
Made sure the Vac setting wasn't at some kind of K setting.

Is there ANY way I could get a reading of 0.9v AC when it's producing 14.7vDC? 
It feels wrong.

Anyway, I suspected the yellow wires maybe more than the stator itself.  Took the stator out of the cover and unscrewed some of the bolts- they're covered in some kind of white corrosion- but that only explains the black and white wire resistance readings, nothing about the yellows.

I couldn't find anything to do with the yellow wires once they really got to the stator beyond the woven white wire sheath. Bits of the string/wire/whatever that holds these wires to the body of the stator were burnt or rusted or something, and broke off.
Graphite dust was everywhere from the brushes, but I'm not sure that that would inhibit charging.

While the rotor's resistance hovers at the bottom edge of acceptability, the bike seems to put out the correct amount of voltage at higher rpms, at least this time.
I'm wondering, then, if something within the system is sucking up voltage more quickly than it can be created?  The lack of resistance in the rotor? The huge draw on starting?





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Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #134 on: March 29, 2009, 09:06:19 pm »
...or am I just not putting in long enough rides?
Still, I can't imagine Honda sold their motorcycles with the disclaimer "You meet the nicest people on a Honda, because no one else would put up with a bike that won't start after a 15 minute ride."

I could understand, maybe, that I'm not riding it *long* enough to see appreciable charging, but why then am I having such issues restarting early on in rides?  Why the massive voltage draw on starting?

I guess these are the questions now, as things are testing out okay (?)
as well as whether or not a resistance of 4.3 is acceptable for my rotor, when anything lower hints at an internal short.


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Offline Hush

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #135 on: March 30, 2009, 02:07:45 am »
I rode my 650 for 2 hours straight today Kit, I turned it off and about an hour later my younger brother (fresh back from a year in Canada) turned up unexpectedly and seeing his excitement at my bike I wanted to show him what it sounded like.
Do you think that b*tch would start, not enough power to turn her over! >:(
So a few hours later when he's well and truly gone, I go to put bike away in the shed and she fires right up purring like a kitten!!  ???
I'm not sure why these bikes do this to us, possible poltergiest hauntings me thinks, but I know that tomorrow she will fire right up and in 3 days she will fire right up??
It's just after a ride, not even 2 hours of continuous high speed riding made any difference.
A quick non scientific question for you Kit, when you rode for your 15 minutes, was the headlight on?
Clutching at straws now to make any sense of this phenomenon, would love to blame the quartz halogen headlight.......bet I'm not allowed to. ;D
I think the thing I most like about motorcycling is the speed at which my brain must process information at to avoid the numb skulls who are eating pies, playing the ukulele, applying make-up etc in the comfort of their airconditioned armchairs as they make random attempts to kill me!!!!!!!

Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #136 on: March 30, 2009, 06:25:22 am »
well... you can probably blame the headlight, but it's a 55/60w bulb, same draw as stock would have, so even if it might be to blame, it shouldn't be. ;)
"Moderation in all things - especially moderation. Too much moderation is excessive. The occasional excess is all part of living the moderate life."
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Offline leekellerking

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #137 on: March 30, 2009, 07:38:27 am »
well... you can probably blame the headlight, but it's a 55/60w bulb, same draw as stock would have, so even if it might be to blame, it shouldn't be. ;)

Just in case, have you thought of disconnecting everything but the charging system and tail/stop lights? 

I did that when I was troubleshooting my Nighthawk to reduce the number of variables.  Also, there are some folks who have put a toggle switch in the circuit to turn off their headlight while cranking the beast. (Especially in winter).

What did you rotor test to between each of the rings and the center?  It should be infinity, BTW.

Good luck and God bless,

Lee
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Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #138 on: March 30, 2009, 08:54:10 am »
ohhh hadn't thought of that...
"Moderation in all things - especially moderation. Too much moderation is excessive. The occasional excess is all part of living the moderate life."
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Offline Soos

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #139 on: March 30, 2009, 09:24:51 am »
Quote
I guess these are the questions now, as things are testing out okay (?)
as well as whether or not a resistance of 4.3 is acceptable for my rotor, when anything lower hints at an internal short.

The rotors I have measure(on the bike) 4.5, my 2 spares measure 4.3 and 4.5
Not sure that helps much....
Oh, and the DOHC cb750 rotor I had(sold it a while ago) measured either 4.6 or 4.7 ohms I believe.






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Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #140 on: March 30, 2009, 10:22:13 am »
the extra-crispy looking wires on my stator bugged me, but moreso the .9vAC reading.  Do the brushes have to be plugged into the RR for some reason to get voltage out of the three stator wires? I wouldn't think so, but who knows?  ...and i'm also relatively sure you test those stator wires with one probe on one spade, one probe on the other, then switch one of the probes to the last, untested one to get your voltage reading, am I right?

I *know* I hadn't accidentally set it to some kV setting or something...
it's just weird.
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Offline Pinhead

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #141 on: March 30, 2009, 11:08:26 am »
There has to be voltage across the rotor to get voltage/power out of the stator. The brushes don't necessarily have to be plugged into the R/R, though; I'd hook it straight up to the battery with alligator clips.
Doug

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Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #142 on: March 30, 2009, 11:23:06 am »
that's what I thought.  I knew the brushes had to come in somewhere.
"Moderation in all things - especially moderation. Too much moderation is excessive. The occasional excess is all part of living the moderate life."
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #143 on: March 30, 2009, 11:27:28 am »
Mickey took the bike for a ride.  Came back and bike was verrrry slow to restart, as per usual.  voltage read 12.4 while the bike was running, voltage went up to 14.6 when revved to 5k.
Well, that's good.
It's a good sign for the charging system, but if the battery voltage came up really quickly, it makes the battery suspect.

Turned it off @ the switch.  Tried to start it.  Voltage dropped to 8.64 while cranking. That's some serious draw. Bike started but ran pretty rough. Probably because the spark wasn't as strong? batt. voltage was down to 11.8.
Am 11.8 battery voltage is essentially an expended battery.  What's the history of the battery?  Age, number of deep discharge cycles, is the electrolyte level above the plates?  8.64V while cranking indicates more load than the battery can handle.  That's either excessive starter motor draw or a marginal battery.

Shut the bike down again.

Disconnected the alternator from the RR.  Tested resistance between the yellow wires.  0.8v, all the way across.

Connected each of the yellow wires in turn to one lead, the other to the case.  OL every time.
That's good.
yes

Switched the multimeter to AC voltage and connected the multimeter leads to two of the yellow leads to test vAC generated by the stator.  Here's where the weirdness was.
Started the engine and revved it up to 5k. The result was 0.9v.  That's weird.
Switched to another yellow lead.   0.8v.  wtf?
Made sure the Vac setting wasn't at some kind of K setting.

Is there ANY way I could get a reading of 0.9v AC when it's producing 14.7vDC? 
It feels wrong.
When you disconnected the alt from the R/R, you also killed power to the electromagnet/Field coil/rotor.  The alternator needs power to make power.  So, it appears you measured the alternator when it was turned off.  Not surprising that there was little voltage out, as it was just operating on residual magnetism.

Anyway, I suspected the yellow wires maybe more than the stator itself.  Took the stator out of the cover and unscrewed some of the bolts- they're covered in some kind of white corrosion- but that only explains the black and white wire resistance readings, nothing about the yellows.

I couldn't find anything to do with the yellow wires once they really got to the stator beyond the woven white wire sheath. Bits of the string/wire/whatever that holds these wires to the body of the stator were burnt or rusted or something, and broke off.
Graphite dust was everywhere from the brushes, but I'm not sure that that would inhibit charging.

While the rotor's resistance hovers at the bottom edge of acceptability, the bike seems to put out the correct amount of voltage at higher rpms, at least this time.
I'm wondering, then, if something within the system is sucking up voltage more quickly than it can be created?  The lack of resistance in the rotor? The huge draw on starting?

If the rotor is supposed to be 5 ohms, when fed 12.5 V it will draw 2.5 amps, or 31.25 watts.
If you are measuring 4.3 ohms after subtracting the meter's wire lead resistance, then your rotor draws 2.9 amps or 36.4 watts.
This isn't much difference, and it doesn't seem like it should be the cause of charging problems.  If the resistance is lower because some of the rotor windings are shorted, this would make the alternator put out slightly less power than it would normally.  And, the charging loss effects would be greater at idle speeds.  Increased resistance in the rotor power feed circuity from the R/R will also diminish stator output.

These recent readings you are giving makes me suspect the battery more than the charging system.  I think I'd try to get it load tested, or swap it with a known good one.

Is any of what I'm writing helping you?  It doesn't seem like it from here.  What do you need to grasp the theory of operation?  I can't imagine any logical troubleshooting can occur with out a basic understanding of how it is supposed to work.  I'm at a loss about how to relate this to you.

Cheers,

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
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Offline leekellerking

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #144 on: March 30, 2009, 11:50:33 am »
the extra-crispy looking wires on my stator bugged me, but moreso the .9vAC reading. 

Extra-crispy looking wires?   :o

Are these the wires from the stator to the Reg/Rec, or in the stator itself?  I had a partially broken wire from the stator to the Reg/Rec and Tony Weeks charged me a couple of bucks to fabricate a replacement for the length of white/black harness from the brushes to the Reg/Rec.  Rewiring the yellow wires (They are yellow, right?) would be trickier as they are soldered in place on the stator.

Lee
My Nighthawk is put together with wire and zip ties, burns oil, and handles like a pig.  I love it!

Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #145 on: March 30, 2009, 02:21:59 pm »
These recent readings you are giving makes me suspect the battery more than the charging system.  I think I'd try to get it load tested, or swap it with a known good one.

Is any of what I'm writing helping you?  It doesn't seem like it from here.  What do you need to grasp the theory of operation?  I can't imagine any logical troubleshooting can occur with out a basic understanding of how it is supposed to work.  I'm at a loss about how to relate this to you.

I assure you, your inputs are duly noted and taken into account when struggling with this undertaking.  I'm unsure how Hush and I can have what seems to be almost exactly the same problems, unless it's just by chance our batteries both died.

My battery is relatively new, having been kept on a trickle charger when not in use, and only deeply discharged while running the bike (as the bike hasn't seeming to charge it).  The fluid is up to the 'full' line, as well. 
When charged, it will hold a charge for days and days, unless discharged for some reason.
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1980 CB650c- (sold) Delilah
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Offline mlinder

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #146 on: March 30, 2009, 03:14:50 pm »
I'm kind a with TT on this one right now. Batteries with a bad cell behave very similarly to this. Kit, theres a batttery shop on the corner of Belmont and 20th that can do a load test for you, to see if there is a bad cell in the battery.
Same thing happened to a mned near new battery that Marcus bought last year. Very similar behaviour.
No.


Offline Frankenkit

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #147 on: March 30, 2009, 03:27:08 pm »
Worth a shot.
It'd be a bummer to need a new(er) battery, but I guess there's a possibility it's gotten fried.

I'll look for a place in B-town that can do load tests, just outta convenience.  This needs to get nailed down.

your sig quote makes me wonder whether Herbert felt the Atreidies government was liberal or not, through all its generations and incarnations. ;)
"Moderation in all things - especially moderation. Too much moderation is excessive. The occasional excess is all part of living the moderate life."
2012 CBR250R "Black Betty"
1980 CB650c- (sold) Delilah
1973 CL350- Lola?
Sweet, bubbly, Buddha - Say it ain't so!!!
Stuff for sale

Offline mystic_1

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #148 on: March 30, 2009, 05:03:50 pm »
Have you considered installing an ammeter on the bike?  This instrument will tell you definitively if you're charging or discharging, and by how much, in real-time.


Click for more info.


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Offline MickeyX

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Re: The Ever-Popular CB650 bad charging 'issue', formerly hot start 'issue'
« Reply #149 on: March 30, 2009, 08:52:19 pm »
So what does this load test consist of? I'm curious.
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