Author Topic: 1972 350 four, Resto attempt from ground zero (Read 24077 times)

Jim · « **Reply #75 on:** December 07, 2008, 01:28:53 PM »

Help with these gaskets.
These large ones, are they to be tucked up to the underside of the cylinder projection?

This is a poor quality pic. I can’t figure out where these may be required (they came in the engine gasket kit from Western Hills) any idea? (not the valve seals… they have been replaced)

Which of the rings goes on top?

One last thing...
What is this little part called. I seem to have lost it 9are 2 required or just one)

Thanks....
J

scunny · « **Reply #76 on:** December 07, 2008, 01:39:50 PM »

top o-rings are for the cylinder sleeves
cant tell fro your photo about the rings and other seals
that is an oil restricter in your hand, 2 required(one each side)

Jim · « **Reply #77 on:** December 07, 2008, 08:34:24 PM »

What about those piston rings... Which goes on top? Someone must know. The wide one is obviously for the bottom. Which , the black one or the shiny one, goes on the top?
thanks
J

HondanutRider · « **Reply #78 on:** December 08, 2008, 05:57:40 AM »

Here's a handy print from the Honda Common Service Manual that should answer your question about the rings. You should try to get a copy of this manual, it is available free on-line I believe.

Jim · « **Reply #79 on:** December 08, 2008, 06:02:00 AM »

That's great, thanks. My Clymer manual doesn't give enough detail.
Jim

mattcb350f · « **Reply #80 on:** December 08, 2008, 08:15:15 AM »

Jim, that pic from nutrider pretty much sums it up. I had already forgotten which ring is the top one

Here's a link to the manuals: http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

10 pdf. files in all (3rd manual down). 2-4 are the engine I belive.

If you got a complete gasket set, then there maybe some additional o-rings for places you haven't been into yet like in the bottom end.

However, there should be too rather small o-rings which are both different sizes which are used on the oil manifolds (metal tubes w/ holes in them) which sit beside the cam in the head. The two beside eachother in the blurry pic look like them.

The two in the top, if they are more a 'barrel' shape than o-rings look like the ones that go around the oil orifices (the one that you're missing, and the one you have) and the other could be one of the two that go around the cylinder head to cylinder dowels.

Matt.

Jim · « **Reply #81 on:** December 08, 2008, 09:02:39 AM »

Matt thanks for that link.

The 2 different sized O rings you think are for the oilers... why different sizes? I was looking at that location put considered i would have seen 2 at the same size and so moved on.

Yes, I narrowed the others down to the dowels and orifices.

...but the 2 very small... I don't understand why different sizes. I'll try looking at that location again tonight.

If this is correct then i have only one left. It's approx 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick with a "bevel". I'll get a better pic. tonight and has some obvious "lettering" on it .It's harder material; I'll post a pic tonight.

Thanks...
J

mattcb350f · « **Reply #82 on:** December 08, 2008, 12:13:44 PM »

Quote from: Jim on December 08, 2008, 09:02:39 AM

The 2 different sized O rings you think are for the oilers... why different sizes? I was looking at that location put considered i would have seen 2 at the same size and so moved on.

...but the 2 very small... I don't understand why different sizes. I'll try looking at that location again tonight.

Thanks...
J

The oilers are two different sizes

That's soos you can't put them in backwards.

Not sure what the one you have left is then. The only ones I had with a bevel on them were the four that go on the orifice valves and dowels.

Matt.

Jim · « **Reply #83 on:** December 09, 2008, 05:54:52 AM »

Right you are Matt .. i wasn't looking closely enough. That one had me puzzled.

The attention to detail inside here is really quite nice.

This is that last gasket (actually this loos more like a bearing than a gasket... but it came in the kit.)

This is the other side of it ..

And as for these fuel intakes... I did notice during disassembly that each is slightly different. I didnt expect the variation of combinations of reassembly. During that process noticed each are marked. Am i correct in being guided by these indications?

thanks again...
J

ttr400 · « **Reply #84 on:** December 09, 2008, 06:02:32 AM »

The seal on your finger is the Tach drive seal (On camcover).
The inlet manifolds are 1 and 4 the same and 2 and 3 are the same. make sure when fitted the numbers 1 2 3 4 are on the top. (no 1 being on the left when sitting on the bike)

Kevin

Jim · « **Reply #85 on:** December 09, 2008, 06:08:06 AM »

Thanks Kev,
I have the cam cover packed away for the time being and that's why i couldn't find a location for this particular one; awesome, thanks.

Yes, I found those marks and arranged left to right with the numbers up (hoping that was what was intended) i appreciate the confirmation.

This is great ... thanks. I think i can button the engine up now and move to the carbs.
Jim

Jim · « **Reply #86 on:** December 09, 2008, 06:11:12 AM »

Kevin.... "South Africa" !
Jesus man... this forum is killing me. I can't believe the wealth of resources available.
Thanks man..
J

Jim · « **Reply #87 on:** December 17, 2008, 08:12:18 PM »

I'm back.
Thanks to several of you I can say I'm confident this engine is now in very good condition. I appreciate the help you have provided.

I'm moving to the carbs. if anyone wants to pitch in with any tips or wisdom please do. My plan is simple enough. I'm simply going to clean them and install a simple refurbish kit i can get from the dealer for each. I have no plan to take them off the rack unless someone insists.

These pins that hod the floatsin place are a #$%*. They are prob not reuseable. are they easy to access of do you have to buy new floats to get them?

After that I'll tackle this pieces of art...

And this...

I'll keep you posed as each system comes together.
Jim

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #88 on:** December 24, 2008, 09:33:53 AM »

Hi Jim,
Nice progress so far. IMHO you do not need to remove the carbs from the rack. Carbs shouldn't be a biggie to clean. You will need to start thinking about getting access to some carb synching equipment when you are thru reassembling.
BTW- Not to rain on your parade, but you have re-assembled your engine a wee bit too far at this point with it still out of the frame. I can confidently state (don't ask me how I know

) that there is no way in Hades that you will be able to get that engine back in with that top breather cover back on.
Keep up the good work.
Tim

Jim · « **Reply #89 on:** December 24, 2008, 10:05:57 AM »

Hey Tim
Thanks and merry xmas!
Yes... I hav e the breather on only very loose so that I can remove on assembly.
Will start carbs when the kits come in. Right now I am cleaning and reworking other parts , brakes, wheels etc.
Did you find drive sprockets hard to find? I don't want to have to use the old ones.

Enjoy the season...
J

fishman_Phil · « **Reply #90 on:** December 24, 2008, 02:59:15 PM »

Your engine looks great. I found when installing the engine back in the bike on my own and did not want to mark the paint on the frame or the engine, that the easiest way was to put the engine on it's left side perched up a little on a block of wood, but nice and stable, then lower the frame gently down over it. Once in position, put a couple of the bolts in and then sit everything back upright again.
Keep up the good work. Watching your progress all the time. Cheers ... Phil in NZ

Tim in Ohio · « **Reply #91 on:** December 24, 2008, 06:52:06 PM »

Jim,
Re: drive sprockets... I did not replace mine.

hoodellyhoo · « **Reply #92 on:** December 25, 2008, 07:59:32 AM »

I'm guessing you weren't planning on reusing that tire in the second to last pic....

Sprockets are easy to get. I got mine here:http://www.jcwhitney.com/Chains-Sprockets/GP_2001041_N_111+1973+200730429+600014209_10111.jcw

Did you polish your valve cover and breather cover or were they like that?

Jim · « **Reply #93 on:** December 25, 2008, 09:12:57 AM »

Thanks for the link...I'll try it later.

I polished the all the engine as I had it out.
J

Jim · « **Reply #94 on:** December 27, 2008, 04:11:09 PM »

QUESTION

I have the shocks in a vice to drain and tune up. There is an 8mm allen head screew socket bolt at the bottom of the shock/damper which is causing a problem. One on right side is stripped the left is stuck and I dont want to strip it.

Is there a trick here. Is drilling the head off an option? [is it threaded in the shock casing or an element of the damper qwithin/] What have others done?

j

fishman_Phil · « **Reply #95 on:** December 27, 2008, 07:46:41 PM »

I have had to drill most of the ones I have worked on. I drill a small pilot hole down first, then increase it slightly and finish with aan 8mm drill bit. I use titanium drill bits for what it is worth.
The head of the bolt is only around 6mm thick or around 2/10th inch. If you try and judge that depth you are then not wasting your time going to deep. You maybe able to look down into the hole you have created in the bolt head from time to time, and if you see just a trace of copper, you know you are there.
Then I get a metal punch of around 6mm and put into the hole in the bolt head, and give it just a small rap with a hammer and bingo it will come away sweet as. You will find the piece of bolt still left threaded in place will unscrew with your fingers when you get at it.
Same works for my CBX400F as well. I replace the bolts with new stainless cap screws from my bolt supplier.
Cheers ... Phil in NZ

Jim · « **Reply #96 on:** December 27, 2008, 08:19:44 PM »

Done...
That worked perfectly. Drilled as advised and the punch released the damper. Each worked well with no damage to the bottom end.
I'm now in need of 2 new allen bolts for reassembly (i hope they are easy to source).

Thanks
J

fishman_Phil · « **Reply #97 on:** December 27, 2008, 08:33:05 PM »

Good job Jim. The bolts are easy to get over here at the local bolt supplier of the correct length and size so you should have no trouble.
When I work on my forks for my CB350F/Sidecar project tomorrow, I know I will very likely have to do the same to them. Only ever had one come away nice previously. I think it may be due to the amount or type of locktite sealent they have used.
Cheers ... Phil in NZ

Jim · « **Reply #98 on:** January 12, 2009, 02:52:44 PM »

I've begun to reassemble various systems as I have the chance to prep them. I have new faces for the gauges which was an interesting exercise but i managed to remove and replace the trim ring without obvious damage. Delicate but satisfying process. (i'll post a pick of that later... i've read threads that say its more difficult than i found it to be. I would reccomend it)
Shocks, fenders, all trim... cleaned and buffed.
Oven cleaner is an amazing product that will remove most of the worst find of road grime, tar and dry grease.

I removed the wiring harness and refurbished it..... also cleaned sanded and painted the frame. No power coat... just a poor mans careful spray job but the results are great.

I await a few bolts from Western Hills and will be installing the engine (which was completed prior to xmas)next.
I have new tires and am working the brakes at the moment. The seat is good and has been detailed. I have the tank full of vinegar at the moment. I will leave it a week then recoat the interior prior to sending body parts out for paint. A decal kit is in the mail to me which is a nice finishing touch.
I'll add more pics as things change...
J

Jim · « **Reply #99 on:** January 12, 2009, 04:55:43 PM »

These are the complete clocks. I have 15K on the ones with poor face and 26K @ the good face... so i simply peeled back the rim very carefully, changed out the poor face for the good ones and repaired the trim ring pressing the crimps back with care... it looks pretty good once i painted the housings and polished the chrome parts.

p.s. the Green Bay hat is for the benifit of a friend who is following the thread.

Jim

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Author Topic: 1972 350 four, Resto attempt from ground zero (Read 24077 times)