Topic: Yeah yeah, another chain question

[Venturous]

Yes, I really did use the search and try to find the answer first.. 

Bike is a CB750 K1

I know I want an O-Ring 530/100 chain.

I have read a few posts here where folks have had engine casings ruined by a breaking chain.

On eBay, I see O-Ring chains for my bike, but they have a master link.

My first question is...

Wouldn't a one piece chain without a masterlink have less chance of breaking and
causing damage?

Second question is..

Is there a place to buy o-ring chains that don't have the masterlink and are one piece?

Lastly, I read here folks posted you should always change sprockets when you change
chains. To my untrained eye... my sprockets look fine. What are the signs of wear??

As always.. thanks.

[kghost]

Well we've had a few debates over this in the past.....

Master links....theres two types.

Clip and Rivited.

Rivited is stronger when properly installed then a clip type.

Clip types are easier to remove and reinstall.

With modern chains...if you select the appropriate strength...theres little chance of it breaking (at the masterlink or anywhere else)

If your wondering about an endless chain....how do you plan on installing it?

Were you going to remove the swingarm every time you take it on and off?

[78 k550]

if the hole are oblong. Just google worn motorcyle chain under images and you should get an eyefull.
sorry cant answer the others.
Other than if the original chain was a 630 then you will need to change out both sprockets to adapt it for the 520 chain.
I would think it to be just as strong as a non masterlink chain. One with a Masterlink

Paul

[Hush]

I'm going through this issue right now, bought a new "O" ring chain only to find no joiner link like I have been used to for the last 36 years so it had me flumoxed for a while.
Spoke to my old Honda mechanic about a "special rivet tool" and he shows me a ball-peen hammer, he says place something hard behind chain and rap the rivet link with the ball-peen hammer until it spreads to keep the outer link on.
Apparently using the old joiner link on "O" ring chains is a no go any more as it's too hard to get the wee extra "O" rings you get with a new chain to stay in place while you slip on the outside link.
There is a special rivet tool available at a cost but my mechanic assures me that he's been doing the ball-peen hammer trick since these "O" ring chains came out.

[Johnie]

Yes, the standard rule of thumb is to change both sprockets when you change the chain.  I usually follow that rule.  Except I bought a 1981 CM400 with 1,300 miles on it so I only put a chain on that one.  How many miles on those sprockets?  That may give us some clue as to the wear.  I went with the O ring on my KO and changed the sprockets but that will probably be the last chain I put on there since it is mainly show.  As far as the chain rivet tool, pretty expensive.  I just bring my dealer some venison sausage and they rivet it on for me.  If you are careful there is no problem adding those extra rings that come with the master link.  Just use the spacers that come in the bag.  I use the EK O ring chain and have good success with them.

[andy750]

Chains snapping - correct but this was back in the early days of the 750 when chains were not as good quality (and certainly not O-ring chains which are made for superbikes that can withstand much more than a CB750 can throw at it).

Masterlink versus rivet O-rings - Ive used both on my CB750K4 and K2 over the last 70`000 miles (combined for both bikes) in the last 7 years. The masterlink O-ring chain has held up to a range of riding and riding conditions - from flat out fast on German Autobahns (high RPMs, speeds 100mph+ for sustained periods), to extreme cornering/braking in the Alps (which will stress the chain - the constant acceleration/decclaration up/down mountain passes) to cross-country rides in the US.

Conclusion based on extensive road test experience - No problem with using masterlink o-rings or x-rings (clip type) on these bikes.

cheers
Andy

[goon 1492]

I was wondering about the 530 o ring chain I just bought, its a bikemaster chain from jcwhitney. My old front sprocket on the bike looks as good the new one it  has no wear, I installed the new just because and saved the old one for backup, the rear is another story you can clearly see its not half moon shaped between the tips and the tips are getting close to being sharp points. I am still waiting for jcwhitney to ship my new rear sprocket, my setup is as stock 18 front 48 rear and 530-100 o ring chain, I am curious about the masterlink too because I don't have the extra cash to buy a riveter and have heard about the ball peen hammer trick, but at the same time I bought a master link clip and was gonna install it until I looked at it all and became unsure as to whether or not I should use the master link clip(it doesn't have o rings) or just go ahead and carefully do the rived dude. What do ya'll think.
Venturous belwo is a pic of my old sprocket, its not dangerously at its end but its getting there, you can see there is a little bevel left to the tip and its not quite a sharp point yet. when it gets to the sharp point at the tips its past its life span, that is the most notible thing. You also want to check the shape inbetween the tips as they should be round like what 78550k stated.

[Johnie]

I agree with you goon...those tips are getting pretty thin on that rear sprocket.  Good move to change it out.  Since you are getting the master clip-on just use that.  You will be OK.

[goon 1492]

Heres a better pic of the old front and rear sprocket and you can really see how the old rear one has worn down. Thanks Johnie for the tip, I figured it was ok but wanted another opinon. I also thought last night so if I do use the clip on master link it would be ok BUT I would probably have to service it alone more often just because it doesn't have the o-rings like the rest of the chain, Anyone else think of that when they were doing the same thing?

[Johnny5]

Those are looking a bit "shark finned". Definitely time to replace.

My bike had an endless chain on it. What a pain. Since Im replacing it anyway, the cut the thing off.

[333]

Goon- sounds like you got the wrong master link.  The link should match the brand and model of chain.  But the chain should have come with one.

[goon 1492]

Well 333 it did come with a press fit masterlink, and I was gonna use it. I didn't think of it at first when I ordered everything and ordered an extra clip on link. I think I will go ahead and use the press fit link that came with the chain, seems more trustworthy and makes sence to use what the chain came with. thanks for the input 333, I will just have to wait until I get the new tires on and load it up into the truck and take it to the shop and have them press the link on.

Heres a little tip too, I am going to take a section (about 10inchs worth) of the old chain and wrap it around the front sprocket and wire it together then leave it to hang loosly around the swingarm, I am doing this so I can put the sprocket cover and shifter cover back on. Then I can connect the old chain with the new chain when I get to the bike shop and run the new chain throught the front sprocket via the old chain. Man the new chain is a sticky son of a gun too.

[333]

You can take a rag with WD40 and wipe that sticky off.  It is lube, but having lube on the outside of the chain does you no good.  The lube needs to be on the inside, where the pins of the outer links go through the holes on the inner links.  And it is probably in there.  But that is why you should lube a chain directly after a ride, when it has some friction heat, so when it cools down, it sucks the lube in where it needs it the most.  Then, the next day, you do the rag/WD40 thing so the excess lube doesn't fly off onto  the wheel and the rest of the bike.

[Hush]

I've rivetted my "O"ring chain on but am still dubious about it's ability to remain together.
The hardest part is getting the little rubber "o" rings on the joiner link then pushing on the outside plate without shifting them before you flatten the rivets down.
Using a fairly thin but strong G clamp from the back of the joiner link to push the plate on worked for me.
I used a big fat cold chisel and kept revolving it to flatten the end.
I'm still not convinced of the job I've done and the bike shop I bought the chain off told me to run the bike down there if I had any problems so I'll be riding it fairly slowly until they check it.

[kghost]

You've identified the problem with putting the o-ring chain together without the tool Hush...