Topic: lowering "blocks" ?

[Mach-5(50)]

so what is the consensus on using lowering blocks, if that's what they're called the 550 came with them from the p/o. maybe one of the p/o's was just shorter. one older rider i talked to said they were used to smooth the ride by changing the angles of the shocks, but may sacrifice some handling. so what are the opinions?  is it a personal preference thing? does it look better with or without? (objective, i know).
thanks all.

later,

ryan

[Ecosse]

This was discussed somewhere else but can't remember where. Not being an engineer I still gather blocks reduce the effectiveness of the shocks partly because the angle (lay terms here) is greater than the design parameters. Another words they stick out too far. I have them on my 550 from the PO too. You'll note there is some friction between the upper part and coils. Not good.

If you want lower ride go with short shocks. They make 11" ones & stock I think are 13" so you get the two inches back.

Also, the lower rear increases trail, good for high speed stability less so for low speed steering response.

Someone please correct me if wrong.

[Terry in Australia]

I've got lowering blocks on my 836CC powered K1 "Kruiser" and 2 inch over front forks too, and I like it.

I don't like shorter shocks because they have a much shorter stroke, (with shorter, harder springs to make up for the reduction in travel) so give a harsher ride and will still bottom out more easily. The shorter damping tubes contain less damping oil, so apart from poorer damping performance, they run hotter, and wear out faster.

I haven't noticed any wear on my shocks due to the different shock angle, most 1970's Motocross bikes had laid down rear shocks, and there was no evidence (that I'm aware of) that they wore out any faster than bikes with more upright shocks. Cheers, Terry.

[mark]

My 550 also came with a pair and had a short p/o. I have read that they make the shocks less effective and the ride stiffer. I have not removed them as I also happen to be 'inseam challenged'. I'd probably pull them off if I could.


Happy trails.

[Jonesy]

Another issue with lowering blocks that I've noticed (mainly with a 750, not sure if this effects the 550) is there is an indentation in the chain guard to clear the shock in it's normal position. When you use a lowering block, the shock is moved away from the indent and will rub against the chain guard.

[Johnny5]

Another issue with lowering blocks that I've noticed (mainly with a 750, not sure if this effects the 550) is there is an indentation in the chain guard to clear the shock in it's normal position. When you use a lowering block, the shock is moved away from the indent and will rub against the chain guard.

What's a chain guard?

[cbr-eric]

well crap, I already have those and can still barely touch the ground lol!! I was planning on getting some to help, guess I am just destined to be tippy with this thing   so 13" is stock huh?  whats the most cost effective set of shocks out there?

[Mach-5(50)]

well crap, I already have those and can still barely touch the ground lol!! I was planning on getting some to help, guess I am just destined to be tippy with this thing   so 13" is stock huh?  whats the most cost effective set of shocks out there?

i am not sure about cost effective, but a friend of mine who is a yamaha RD guy says the Works shocks are the only way to go. www.worksperformance.com/html/home.html  personaly, i like the way they look, and are more performance oriented than just pretty, which works for me. from what i remember, they are more expensive then some, but they didn't seem unreasonable to me.

also, i am 5'-10".....does that make me "inseam challenged"? i guess i am wondering if removing them will lift the rear end more than my inseam will be comfortable with. or is it just trial and error? i guess i don't really have anything better to do today, and i feel like upping the rear may improve the stance. i'll post before and afters and you folks can tell me.
thanks to all.

later,

ryan

[Ecosse]

Another issue with lowering blocks that I've noticed (mainly with a 750, not sure if this effects the 550) is there is an indentation in the chain guard to clear the shock in it's normal position. When you use a lowering block, the shock is moved away from the indent and will rub against the chain guard.

This is true; my plastic chain guard was clearanced by the PO so I picked up an unmolested (I try to fit that word in anytime I can) for when I go to stock or short shocks.

Terry has a good point with concerns about short travel shocks but I think with the MX bikes the dampeners were designed perhaps with the increased angle in mind. I have a suspension/chassis book with lots of big college words pointing out that when you move one part of the shock away from its originally intended mounting point you decrease it's ability to properly dampen. But, maybe that's less, or not at all, an issue with better than OEM shockers.

BTW: I'm about 5'10" and my lowered 550 sits nice for me. But I don't think factory settings would be a problem. I don't like the phrase 'inseam challenged' as it might scare away the ladies... I need all the help I can get!

Terry, did you say you lowered your front end too?

[cbr-eric]

I am about 5' 6" so I REALLY need all the help I can get lol!  anyone else have options for shocks that they have opinions on, either from use or hearing about someone else using them?

[Mach-5(50)]

if anyone cares, i am going to post the results of the lowering block removal on my project build thread.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?board=103.0

later,

ryan

[mark]

I am about 5' 6" so I REALLY need all the help I can get lol!  anyone else have options for shocks that they have opinions on, either from use or hearing about someone else using them?

some short aftermarket shocks or stock shocks on the lowest setting and lowering blocks like Mach5's first pic or this one:


I might try sliding the fork tubes up a smidgen and bringing the shocks back up a notch or two.

[mark]

if anyone cares, i am going to post the results of the lowering block removal on my project build thread.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?board=103.0

later,

ryan

at 5' 10" you shouldn't need the blocks anyway - unless you have unusually short legs and an unusually long neck or some such.

 

[Ecosse]

I agree, I'm about the same height and my feet are flat on the deck with knees bent. It's conformable but stock height should be more than good too. Once upon a time before all the growth hormones in our food started creating a generation of basketball players, 5'10" was considered on the tall side. Consider too what the Japanese think average is; ever see what Toyota thinks a full size car looks like? It's called the Avalon.

As for the performance impact of short shocks or blocks my humble opinion is that for average riders (not hot dogs and Cafes) the difference will be minimal. But, riding two up could change things I suppose.

[cbr-eric]

I noticed cycle x sells 11" shocks for cheap. now seeing as I am on a real tight budget for now (baby on the way) would these last a little while, or are they pretty weak?  only $69 I think...

[Terry in Australia]

Terry has a good point with concerns about short travel shocks but I think with the MX bikes the dampeners were designed perhaps with the increased angle in mind. I have a suspension/chassis book with lots of big college words pointing out that when you move one part of the shock away from its originally intended mounting point you decrease it's ability to properly dampen. But, maybe that's less, or not at all, an issue with better than OEM shockers.

Terry, did you say you lowered your front end too?

Thanks mate, and like I said, don't be worried about laying your shocks over a few degrees from stock with lowering blocks, many bikes "back in the day" (my BMW R100RS, for example) had the ability to change the shock angle by having multiple top mounts fitted to the frame. I'd certainly be careful about laying forward short travel shocks with small damping tubes, (or crappy worn out OEM shocks that should be replaced anyway) but good modern shocks are fine.

I'm actually running 2" longer fork tubes (CycleX) on my K1, I'm 6'5" so height isn't an issue, I just like that layed back seating position with the long forks and lowered rear, and a 16" back wheel looks really dumb when you've got standard shocks in their original mounting position, with all that empty space between the fender and the tire. Cheers, Terry.