Topic: How to keep everything clean when doing an oil change

[retrogrrl]

I just changed my oil yesterday and made a big mess in my garage, and used so much paper towel it was crazy.  I felt a bit like Mr.Bean, with the spreading oil mess to be honest.  The other issue I had was keeping the grit and crap that is on the outside (on the drain plugs and oil cover, and garage floor) off the threads and surfaces that should seal afterwards.  I tried "washing" one of the drain plugs in the used motor oil, but I could hear the gritty scrape of grit when I tightened the bolt.  Same thing with the oil filter cover, I could hear the scrape of crap on the plate surface when I tightened the bolt, even though I tried to wipe it thoroughly.  To add insult to injury, now I seem to have little drips of oil coming out from the oil filter cover area.

How do you all prepare your areas for oil changes?  What are some of the things I should have in my garage to help me out with cleaning and spills? What are your suggestions for keeping all the bits nice and clean?

Thanks in advance all!

[78_SaltLick]

I just changed my oil yesterday and made a big mess in my garage, and used so much paper towel it was crazy.  I felt a bit like Mr.Bean, with the spreading oil mess to be honest.  The other issue I had was keeping the grit and crap that is on the outside (on the drain plugs and oil cover, and garage floor) off the threads and surfaces that should seal afterwards.  I tried "washing" one of the drain plugs in the used motor oil, but I could hear the gritty scrape of grit when I tightened the bolt.  Same thing with the oil filter cover, I could hear the scrape of crap on the plate surface when I tightened the bolt, even though I tried to wipe it thoroughly.  To add insult to injury, now I seem to have little drips of oil coming out from the oil filter cover area.

How do you all prepare your areas for oil changes?  What are some of the things I should have in my garage to help me out with cleaning and spills? What are your suggestions for keeping all the bits nice and clean?

while your at it, someone explain HOW to do an oil change, and what type of oil to use. The dipstick says 10/40, but i doubt we can just go down to Kragens and get car oil. I know how much oil my bike takes, and how to drain the oil, but is there anything else you do after draining the oil other than put more in?

Thanks in advance all!

[SteveD CB500F]

First of all, when you take out the drain plug, the oil is going to come out horizontally, so you should be prepared to catch it!

I use a 1 gallon plastic car shampoo container cut in half and layed under the sump (500/550). Let the drain plug drop into the container as you can easily reclaim it later - it's more important to catch all the oil!

As the flow eases, you need to move the container so as to catch it all until it is merely dripping from the drain hole. Then retreive the plug, clean it and reinsert.

Don't forget that the oil filter will also be full of oil so when you release it, make sure your container is positioned!

Wipe the surfaces with paper towel, install new filter and replace housing.

Pour old oil into an old container and dispose of environmentally (of course)

This is far more efficient with warm (not too hot!) oil, so run a couple of miles before changing the oil.

That's it - been doing it this way for 30 years!

[hymodyne]

I start with a 5 qt oil pan, positioned so that it will catch the forced stream of oil that arcs at the beginning of the drain process, and the vertical dribbles that will follow as the pan is emptied. I'll shift my bike from the center stand to the side stand over my drain pan a couple of times to try to get all of the oil out. when the pan is drained, I'll roll a length of paper towel or absorbent cloth clockwise into a small dowel  shape. I try to put it in the drain plug hole  without touching the sides of the opening, about two or so inches, then unroll it counterclockwise as I'm removing it from the drain. this seems to catch some of the grit and debris that accumulates at the bottom of the sump, keeping it from being put back into circulation with the fresh oil. this also chases debris out of the threads as well.

once I put the drain plug back in, I'll loosen the filter bolt partway, catch the draining oil that is released and dump the oil held in the filter housing in my drain pan. wipe everything down, replace filter, gasket, (add a small coating of oil to the gasket) and re-assemble.

 I also keep a container of gasline anitfreeze (isopropl alchohol) around to wipe metal surfaces and prep for reassembly

hym
 

[Bob Wessner]

I put a small piece of old window screen over the drain pan when I do oil changes. I seem to always lose the damn spring washer from the filter into the oil  . It also gives you a chance to spot any stray metal or junk.. which would, of course, be an indication of other developing problems.

[78_SaltLick]

any idea what oil we put in? my dipstick says 10/40 but i dont think i can go down and put any car oil in....can I? Also, is there anything else you do other than to drain the oil, and replace it? Ive changed my oil on my car many times, but never a motorcycle.

[retrogrrl]

Thanks for the suggestions.. I particularly like the one about the screen .. I dropped one of the bolts into the tin of oil, and spent quite some time trying to get it out. 

I just sussed out the fabulous dollar store downstairs and have put thick rubber work gloves (for the heat and mess), a tarp and "whizzo" absorbant cloths, and a new funnel (complete with screen!) on my list.  After the advice I think I will add an oil pan and isolpropyl alcohol to the list as well, my coffee tin works ok but is hard to pour the oil out of, and I need some sort of cleaner.

My main drippy draining problem was from the oil storage area (on the 73 cb750 it is on the side of the bike and the bolt is right over a lot of other bits, making it harder to drain) I had to hold the tin (that gets quite hot) right under the opening for quite a long time.  The process seemed a lot easier with my 550.

Do any of you use sawdust or kitty litter or that absorbant stuff from the hardware store to soak up the spills?  Has any one used diapers for absorbing things?

Re: the oil question ... My mechanic just told me to use a car oil (10w-40), and replacing the oil filter is a good thing to change every so often.  I ordered a couple of extra filters when I bought mine, for backup.

[Bob Wessner]

[Do any of you use sawdust or kitty litter or that absorbant stuff from the hardware store to soak up the spills?/quote]

Sure do!

[eldar]

Change oil at night on your neightbors driveway, you know, the one you dont like!

[MetalHead550]

Get one of those oil pans that has an upper level for catching the oil and a small hole in its center that alows the oil to drain to the lower level so you can catch any parts you drop.  They look like a normal oil pan only they have a funnel like cover on top and a pour spout.

At first I was changing my filter w/ the oil each change but since I change every 1000-1500 miles it seemed like a waste so now I change the filter every other time.  Dirt, grit, crud ect. are the #1 killers of engines so dont hesitate to change that filter often.  Your bike will thank you for it!

Ive found that turning the kick starter over a few times with the drain plug open tends to push oil that otherwize wouldnt come out...out.

One other thing you can do every so often is flush the engine out with diesel fuel since it is a great degreaser and yet is somewhat viscous so its not "abrasive".  Drain the oil as you normally would then put the drain plug back in.  leave the filter out.  fill to normal level where you would normally put the oil then kick it over several times.  DO NOT START THE BIKE!   Tip the bike side to side a few times to slosh the diesel around.  Operate the clutch a few times and move the gear selector through its range a couple times.  Drain it and kick it a few times to get it all out.  put the filter back in and fill it with oil.  I tried this for the first time this past weekend on an old Triumph that had a sticky clutch mechanism and was amazed at how much crap came out with the diesel.  No more clutch not disengaging and the shifts feel much better.  You shouldnt need to do this very often but its also a good way to get crappy oil that you werent happy with completely out of the system.  Which leads me to....

Read the oil FAQ and all the hot debates you will find by running a search to derive your own opinion but...Dont put regular automotive oil in your bike.  The clutch will slip.  Ive tried a few myself just to see and found this to be true, especially with synthetics.  My personal favorite....Rotella T, which is 15w 40 for diesel trucks.  It lacks the modifiers they put in car oil that our clutches dont like.  But like I said do your own research and put what you like best in your bike.

Check the oil FAQ and derive your own opinion but you should not use regular automotive oil in these bikes

[skamania19]

Fire departments, police, gas stations, etc. usually carry big blue 2 foor by 2 foot or bigger pads for absorbing hazardous materials. If you know anyone who works at one of these you might be able to score one or two to use under the bike. They absorb much better than paper towels.

[Bodi]

Disposable diapers work very, very, very poorly. Kotex type pads the same. The outer cover is a bit absorbent, but the absorbent "padding" is a polymer coated cellulose material and the polymer is immune to oil; they absorb a huge amount of water-based liquid but just about zero oil. The type with polymer beads use pretty much the same polymer.

I tried a diaper on an oil spill and when it did SFA I did some research to find out why.

[pmpski_1]

Kitty litter. It's kind of a pain to clean up, but does a better job than paper towels. I keep a box of it around for oil spills because I've had quite a few over the years. It works well when you have a lot of oil on the ground.

After you change your oil a couple of times you'll learn the tips and tricks that will allow you to do it without making a mess.

[Dennis]

For the 750 you have the chalenge of draining the tank. I use a medium size (about 5" dia) funnel in a gallon jug. Sit that on a support like a milk crate. Position the funnel under the drain and remove the threaded plug from the tank. Usually have to hold the funnel in position, but it's not too messy. Use a regular drain pan for the crankcase and filter.
Practice helps, too. I've only been changing oil (on cars, bikes and whatever else needs it) for ...... um, ... well I'm not going to tell you that many years!

[bryanj]

Oil filter change with oil at 1500 mile intervals OR AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR if you are like me and dont go very far anymore. Any 10W40 or 15W40 oil to the spec in the handbook ( i think it is CE/SF) Newer grade oils will be OK BUT NOT SYNTHETICS. One of the best types is the "FLEET USE" diesel type

[eldar]

Hell right now i am using havoline oil and it works fine. I hardly ever have trouble getting into neutral at a stop light. i rarely miss a shift and have never had any slippage. I just use 10-40 havoline. Better still, it is one of the cheaper oils and works as good as any other oil. I have used it in cars and trucks and my bike for years. See in the northern climate, you dont use 15 weight oils. They get too think once temp drops to 50 degrees, takes longer to lube the engine properly. At that rate, half your riding season is lost almost.