Topic: Shock disassembly question...

[Johnie]

I want to disassemble my KO shocks for chrome.  I did view drackett's post in May 2008 in FAQ.  I do not have a spring compressor, but will try using a jack between the basement floor and a beam to compress it enough to remove the clip.  My question is once I compress between the top and bottom clevace, will that clip just pop off or will I need to do some prying on it? Thanks

[cafe750]

I've been able to compress the stock springs by hand, and the retainers just fall out. No prying necessary.

[Magpie]

My method: Clamp the bottom in the vise with the shock straight up and down, set the rebound at it's softest setting, put on some blue mechanic's gloves for grip, pull down on cover with both hands, my lovely assistant Darlene removes the clips, slowly let the cover back up. Repeat.
Cliff.

[HondaMan]

I've been able to compress the stock springs by hand, and the retainers just fall out. No prying necessary.

I hope you never get mad at ME! 

[chrislib]

I've been able to compress the stock springs by hand, and the retainers just fall out. No prying necessary.

X2, might want to spray em with some penetraing oil of your choice 1st to help them come unseated. either way it`s pretty easy, I weigh 165 or so and my body weight was enough to get the job done easily.

[Johnie]

Sounds easier than I thought.  I will give it a day with some penetrating oil to loosen things up and will give it a go. 

[Old Scrambler]

I put the clevis end over the edge of a sheat of plywood or something similar. You may want your assistant to have a small srewdriver handy to get the clips started. If you want to make a tool to help............cut  a hole the size of the shock cover at the outer edge of the clips in a piece of light-weight channel iron.  Then cut a smaller hole on each side channel large enough to get the hooks of a ratchet strap through.  Then place the channel in a large vice and place a strong pin through the shock clevis. Place the top of the shock through the large hole and have your assistant hold it on center. Mount the ratchet straps to the channel holes and the pin.  Now compress the shock with equal tension ofn the straps. To keep from scratching the shock cover, place some tape on the channel iron around the hole.     

[Artfrombama]

Always more than one way to skin a cat, this is my way;

I cut out a horse shoe section from a piece (4 x 5") of 10ga. sheet metal. Big enough to slip through the coils.

Clamped the horse shoe piece of metal to the tool post on my lathe.

Stuck a bolt through the bottom mount, then let both ends of the bolt rest on the lathe chuck, shock horizontal.

With the horse shoe thingy stuck through the coil, slowly crank the carriage toward the chuck, compressing the spring. Remove the locks (cotters) and release the spring pressure.

[Bouncer]

Anyone know if MDI Forsa shorty shocks can be disassembled? I would love to powdercoat mine but don't have a clue.

[pinnacle]

i would like to offer possible solution i have had success with large hose clamps wrapped around the spring coils and then tightening them up to compress the spring so as not to fear them springing back and gives time to disassemble the shock hope i have not misunderstood your needs and that it helps

[Kevin400F]

Johnie, in your original post it sounded like you were compressing between the top eye and the bottom clevis.  You've probably already picked up from the other posts, but the compression must take place between the bottom clevis and the top of the spring, or in your case, the chrome shroud that surrounds the spring.  The top eye must remain "free floating" so it can move away from the split collars and allow the collars to be removed.

[RRRToolSolutions]

A tool is easy to make that will let you keep all of your fingers - I have 3 different types since I'm working on different types of bikes.

This is my homemade Honda tool -

Gordon

[Johnie]

Johnie, in your original post it sounded like you were compressing between the top eye and the bottom clevis.  You've probably already picked up from the other posts, but the compression must take place between the bottom clevis and the top of the spring, or in your case, the chrome shroud that surrounds the spring.  The top eye must remain "free floating" so it can move away from the split collars and allow the collars to be removed.

You are right Kevin, that was my original thought.  Thanks for keeping me on track.  I have not tackled it yet but have been waiting for all the ideas here.  This board of guys is the best!!!  I figure I will do the job between Christmas and New Years when I am off.  The chromer is closed anyway and that way I can hear more ideas.  What has me concerned is guys saying you can loose fingers here.  The tension on the lower setting allows me to compress it by hand.  Does not seem strong enough to cut fingers off? 

[Johnie]

My method: Clamp the bottom in the vise with the shock straight up and down, set the rebound at it's softest setting, put on some blue mechanic's gloves for grip, pull down on cover with both hands, my lovely assistant Darlene removes the clips, slowly let the cover back up. Repeat.
Cliff.

I used magpies suggestion above and it was a piece of cake.  Thought it would be more difficult.  I did the job by myself as the clips came out very easy.  If I am correct I should be able to chrome the top cover, clips and spring.  I believe the acid bath, copper bath and chrome bath would damage the hydraulic piston and seals, correct?

[Patrick]

I can't speak to the copper bath or the chrome bath, Johnnie, but if you do the acid bath the seals are toast. They will die in agony. It's ugly.

This thread convinced me to try this. I got both shocks disassembled by myself easily. I bathed the springs in a solution of muriatic acid and they came out pretty good, considering I thought they were goners beforehand.

Merry Christmas

Patrick

[Johnie]

Both shocks dampen the same when I push them down and let them rise together.  Seems smooth with no hang-ups.  Some rust on the metal shafts will clean up with wool or wire wheel.  Appears new shocks may be just wasting $$$.  Dealer says new will be $152 each.  Highly doubt my chromer will charge that much for the springs, clips and top cover.  Plus, the chrome will be better than the OEM from what I hear.  Does it sound like I am thinking this through right?

[Magpie]

Sounds good to me and you still have the original shocks on the bike.
Cheers,
Cliff.